Man, seeing everyone’s wiring all clean like that makes me wanna go back and fix mine… Then I realize that I’m too lazy and the stuff works as is.
Fokkushaundo: Nice stick. I didn’t use the spacer either, just cut down the stock screws and widened up the holes on the micro switches.
@FreezerB: Thanks, I had a lot of time to think about my mod while I waited for my Lizard Lick order and decide how to wire it based on what I’ve seen from other people’s mods, specifically kowal’s mod. And I can’t believe I forgot all about the e-clip. It wasn’t until after my brother removed the balltop from the stock stick that I realized I could have just removed the e-clip.
@tamere: There’s nothing really special about how I wired the joystick. I just used the stock microswitches while accidentally breaking off two of the wires on one of the switches in the process. The switches are Omron and fit perfectly into the JLF’s plastic mount and gate.
If you’re wondering about how I mounted the joystick, I chiseled and sanded some of the plastic around the joystick area and the around the screw holes in the Mayflash case so that it would fit into holes of the JLF’s plastic mount. I then used 4 of the stock screws used to hold the button board into place to secure the JLF while leaving enough space for a dust cover in between.
I’m trying to just replace the joystick with a jlf, and I wired everything up and it reads whatever directional input I do as diagonal inputs (down forward and up back). I cut the traces on the jlf and I reused the wires from the original pcb. Is that ok for me to do? I didnt even remove the connectors from the pcb. By the way I have a 2009-04-20 dated pcb. Is Red Ground on this dated pcb?
here is what it looks like (crappy cell phone picture) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/TheKoz/0813092020.jpg
thanks in advance.
EDIT: Nevermind I solved my problem. I didn’t cut far enough in my traces on the jlf pcb.
I’ve recently purchased a Mayflash stick, and I was wondering if there’s any way to fix the joystick’s wobbliness without having to purchase a new joystick for it. I have absolutely zero experience in modifying joysticks, and I don’t want to have to spend more money on buying a joystick. Is there any way to tighten up the stick without having to get a new one?
How about a stiffer spring? I’ve always wondered about how much a stiffer spring might improve the stock stick, but there are also the pivot quality and the space between the actuator and the micro switches that play roles in how loose wobbly the stock stick is. A Sanwa JLF spring should fit and make it feel kinda like a JLF.
Silly question, stock Mayflash sticks suck, right?
I ask because I play Alpha 2/3 on GGPO and supers and other things are…evasive. But at Evo I played SF4 and HDR (mostly casuals), and stuff was coming out OK. I assume this was because both of those games have lenient input windows? I’m trying to make sure there isn’t a problem with how my PC is reading the stick, and that the stick itself really is as bad as I think it is.
yeah its pretty shitty unmodded, but modded its a pretty sweet little solid unit.
I personally prefer a modded mayflash as oppose to a modded hori ex2/fs3 (actually much easier to mod as well)
I couldn’t figure out how to get my joystick hooked up on the mayflash PCB. Then i found my MC Cthulhu and said fuck it. :lol: I finally have a working stick. 
what type of buttons snap into the stick? and do the screw in sanwa buttons (i think) just push in snuggly?
If you can find a way to get a tighter spring and make the actuator bigger somehow or make the microswitch contacts longer, it’ll be very similar to a JLF. Because…
Yes and no. Yes because it’s built poorly. No because the Mayflash stock joystick has Omron switches, the same switches used in JLFs.
The reason why the Mayflash joystick is so god awful is because the spring is very loose and the actuator is very small (making diagonals very hard to hit). If these shortcomings were addressed somehow, you’d actually end up with a stick very similar to the JLF.
I’ve used the stock switches for my EX2 and it works pretty well.
The Omron switches in my mayflash stick seemed to be very soft and engage later then the ones on the jlf. The mayflash switches had to be pressed at least 1/2 way in to engage where as the jlf would engage almost instantly.
That said the stock stick isn’t that terrible it’s the buttons that you really should worry about.
I didn’t do a thorough test but the way I determined if they were the same switches was by pressing the microswitch contacts together. The contacts pushed in and “clicked” at the same, meaning they had the same tension. Mind you, I took one look, read “Omron” and decided to test one switch.
And yes, the joystick is somewhat salvageable. The buttons are a complete loss.
EDIT: Also, I seem to have a problem with my JLF on my Mayflash. It’s…too loud. When the actuator hits the gate, it makes a loud impact sound. Compared to my friend’s TE, it sounds like I’m ramming the joystick into the gate, when I’m really not. Anyone else have this problem?
just finished modding a friend’s mayflash a few months ago and i wanna surprise him by making some cool artwork for it.
does anyone have a template for the mayflash stick? like with the cutouts for the holes etc? or know of a link to it? i can’t find it anywhere. i don’t NEED a template but it would make things way easier.
Any tips for cutting out the artwork? Instead of giving me a template, my friend just made me a huge picture to cut out myself to fit the Mayflash, so I was wondering if there was anyway I could use the mayflash CP to trace over the artwork or something.
Okay, I just put a new, much tenser spring into my Mayflash. The stick’s a lot harder to move, but it reduced some of the wobbliness and I feel like my moves are more accurate for it - I can at least do supers in Alpha 3 consistently now.
xacto knife + cutting board will do the trick. and for easy circles use the compass method.
drive a small nail into the center of the button hole, plant the knife edge securely into the edge of the button hole, and rotate the art work slowly and precisely, making sure the nail doesnt wobble out or you will get a jagged cut. Done correctly and your artwork will look as if it was laser cut.
FOr the edges of the art work is more difficult because you have to plant the knife as well as have complete control over your sliding artwork with your other hand. one misstep and you scare the entire edge.
Also, once you start rotating do not stop, you can slow down but dont stop, momentum is the key to cutting clean along with exact precision.
Alright, last part I need for my Mayflash! I got a JLF, with no mounting plate or Harness. I need to know the way to join the JLF to the mayflash, I know I can use a part of the old Mayflash stick, but I don’t know how to go about doing that. Help, please and thank you.
i don’t mean to be rude and all… but all the info you want is in the thread.
here’s my mayflash…
Mods include:
- pictures will tell for themselves)i’m sure pics will do it more justice 
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/1089/mayflash01.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6140/mayflash02.jpg
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/1294/mayflash03.jpg
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/3873/mayflash04.jpg
