How do the Crown buttons fit and feel? Do you still need to dremel or grind down the button holes for general fitting purposes?
Crown 203C SCREW-INS will fit perfectly. But you need to solder.
Crown 203A SNAP-INS Will Not, they will need 7/8" x 11/16" O-Rings to hold them in place, as they do fit into the case but will not stay.
But you wont need to solder these if you get BOTH MALE AND FEMALE .110" DISCONNECTS
On another note, i poped in my Crown 203A into a 1.125" Mounting Hole ( HAPP ) and it fits snug.
By the way, cutting out artwork for mayflash is Annoying. im no good with a xacto knife.
Almost done modding without LizardLicks parts… i messed up big time cutting out my Artwork and its looking really bad right now heh… Id say the insides look better then the out meh.ill post a picture once everything is in order.
help pls with new MayflashPCB
hi guys, i followed the whole thead but it seems that nobody has the same problem i have.
i did all the things that are mentioned in the first post and other forums, but my stick didnt work proberly.
here are a picture of my mod:
http://img125.imageshack.us/i/modmayflash.jpg/
as u can see the buttons are working fine.
the stick does some wired thinks like only have two inputs. Up = Up / Down = Right / Left = Up / Right = Right
i think i have a different PCB in my Mayflash here u can see the underside:
http://img16.imageshack.us/i/pcbl.jpg/
to pairs of connections joining one point… strange
picture of the older one:
here picture of production date of PCB
http://img125.imageshack.us/i/mayflashfrom2009.jpg/
i dont know what to do, because the original stick works…
i also soldered the wires of the old stick direcly to the sanwa sticks Pcb, but here is the problem, that only two directions are working…if i put here the third one in place then nothing is happenning…also when i solder all ground wires to the one of the sanwa PCB…nothing happend…
someone has the same problem?
thanks for any help 
I’ve just run into the same thing, it turns out my MayFlash PCB isn’t common ground for all the directions, to get down and right I need to use the button ground.
Which means it isn’t going to work with my JLF without modifying the stick’s PCB. :annoy:
I guess we have the same PCB revision.
I ended up sticking with Mayflash’s stock Joystick. Its got good quality omron switches (same as JLF) and all i needed to do was electic tape the actuator up a couple of notches, plays just like the Sanwa’s in Chinatown Fair.
Oh, and im planning on Quick Disconnecting the Omrons, i broke one of the solders when i was trying to get the stick out for modding.
If anything for that “authentic” feel i’ll just swap the stick with the real JLF actuator, it is a generic Hori knockoff anyways.
@CorvusCorax
good that im not the only one with this problem…
cant anybody help? or solved this issue?
we would be very happy if someone could give us a good advice.
thanks
greez
This is probably a long shot but has anyone tried tying all the grounds from the joystick part of the pcb together then testing the directions?
At this point i’d just unsolder anything you have for the joystick, plug it into a pc and start crossing wires to testing what works and what doesn’t.
Thought I would help here. I bought a mayflash last week, and my parts from modchipman came in Friday. I spent probably the 10 hours over the last 2 days starting up, running into the same problem, then fixing it. I have spent the last 2 hours handily getting my butt whooped online while learning stick.
BUT to address the problem. I first plugged all the white 2 wire harnesses back in, and stripped a portion off each one for testing. Then I hooked it up to my computer and opened the game controller menu, and then to properties. I joined the black and red wires (completing the circuit) for each harness one at a time, and wrote down what directional signal it gave. My results turned out that it went “left - down - right - up” Then I took apart the JLF, and swapped the attached 4x microswitches with common ground for the switches from the stock mayflash stick (both use Omron switches, I’m guessing no difference). You could tear up the JLF board and use those switches too. Then I wired it all up, and got this:
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/281/myboard.th.png
No problems yet, enjoying fruits of my labor and a problem I figured out. I realized there was a thread out already talking this:
http://www.ozhadou.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=48704
That’s pretty much what I’ve done, only I kept the microswitch PCB and cut the ground trace between each microswitch. Seems to work ok, now I’ve got to learn how to play with a stick - this is my first! 
Modchipman seems to be shipping much faster then backed up LL, too bad ive had standing orders for the past 2 weeks already hahah, but yeah, appreciate the imaged wiring, ive been working off hand drawing for the time being. The original switches are the same but the engage is off, tried running through 3s with the stock joystick and had many input issues doing quarter circles and half circles, especially QCback, seems like there a deadspace there that has to be cornered in my stock stick. Other then that, im thinknig of just replacing the actuator rather then the entire joystick / shaft, technically they should fit perfectly, albiet a bit of sanding.
Oh and im loving the 28mm Crown buttons, not super sensitive like sanwa’s but are very fast in thier own right.
Im working on a HAPP custom mod this time to feel the difference between American / Japanese stick and buttons, but this will take longer then the mayflash mod. heh. For a first project this got me quite obsessed with custon sticks so i think i can pass a good deal of time with this.
On another note, this should be addressed in sanwa/seimitsu faq but since im using one post anyways and this is a mod thread =P.
Is it possible to insert a light spring into a sanwa button? Its possible with Crowns as they have a inner groove where the spring can rest slightly within the button housing and i believe it might be possible with sanwa’s as well, jsut to give it a bit more resistance as opposed to super sensitivity.
hey guys,
thanks a lot.
i took that stupid common-ground-stick-pcb off and…tada…everything works fine.
ur great :china:
I wish I had one of these new Mayflash PCBs to look at. It makes no sense whatsoever to change their PCB manufacturing process. If the new PCBs are non-common ground for the inputs, this will make it impossible to dual PCB mod without the use of further hacks.
Although I’m quite happy with my modded Mayflash, I might grab another one to see what you can do with it. This might take a while because I’m a student living on ramen.
It’s a shame because it really is a great stick to mod.
My flash pcb is still common grounds, and i had it shipped to me june…
I dont remmber the manufactured date because to see it id have to crack my case open. i dont wanna do that lol.
I’ve recently ordered a couple of Mayflash PCBs from this place and they are the newer 2009 version that isn’t common ground:
http://www.ggsticks.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=83&osCsid=2d8c293c17ecb7b9dbfc27e482eebdee
The PCB comes with a wiring instruction sheet that can also be downloaded from the above page. I needed to hook it up to a Seimitsu LS-32-01 but I wanted to make the cleanest hack I could think of to the microswitch PCB and still be able to use the proprietary harness. Here’s how I did it:
The newer PCB uses only two lines (which I call A and B) for all four directions. A is responsible for UP and DOWN, B for RIGHT and LEFT. When A is tied low (ground) it’s UP, when it’s tied high (VCC) it’s DOWN. Likewise, when B is tied low (ground) it’s LEFT, when it’s tied high (VCC) it’s RIGHT:
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/623/58924740.th.jpg
I then proceeded to make three cuts to the traces on the Seimitsu PCB. I find the cleanest way to do this is not by making a rough score across the traces but by lifting them up with a Stanley knife and removing a segment. I removed from A to B, C to D and E to F:
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/4449/61383533.th.jpg
At this point I snipped the legs of a resistor and soldered them across points 1-2 and 3-4 (to solder to 3 the solder mask needs to be scraped off and the exposed copper tinned). Points 5 and 6 were bridged together with a blob of solder:
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/9400/60058974.th.jpg
The central wire of the Seimitsu harness is no longer necessary and can be removed. The remaining four wires are going to be soldered to the Mayflash PCB as shown. Beware that the connections as shown here only work if the PCB is oriented the same way. If it’s rotated the microswitches won’t have the same function and the connections to the Mayflash PCB will be different.
With the traditional hack method eight wires would need to be soldered from one PCB to the other (16 solder points in total) and the wires wouldn’t be disconnectable. With the method shown here you only need to solder four wires to four points and the stock harness can still be used.
I wouldn’t worry about the warranty - shipping it back to china to get RMAd would probably cost more than a TE and take like a month 
Lol he’s already modded his stick heavily so that’s not the issue. The bottom plate is just a pita to put back in most of the time. Welcome to the mayflash thread btw.
picture quality is not great, since its on a cellphone camera. my POint and Shoot dropped and broke into a hundred or so peices.
Inside
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/1715/41222009514291452730.jpg
Outside
http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/7254/41222547114291644160.jpg
My artwork cutting was not the best, first time for everything no? hehe.
working on my 2nd stick now, its going to be All HAPP.
heh. i forgot to check my pcb again…
looks good
oh i almost forgot, and lots and lots of
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/636/41223022614291814830.jpg
Energy Drinks.