UPDATED Saturn-SNES Fight Pad Mod Final.
UPDATED
The d-pad and buttons They are taken from a controller of these
Mad Catz Street Fighter X Tekken Fightpad & Mad Catz Fightpad
The XYR buttons They are from Wii U Pro Controller
conductive silicone pad buttons, SNES controller
Nicely done. So you put a super Nintendo pad in a Sega Saturn pad that goes to a ps2 converter that goes to a Xbox 360 inpin? Interesting concept. Do the buttons feel weird being from 2 diffent controllers?
I am torn, from a tinkering/hacking stand point I love this
From a preservation standpoint I am like “How could you”.
(Don’t worry, I don’t hate, I done similar mods in the past)
This actually reminds me of a older project someone did, they gut out the Saturn encoder chip from the controller, wire it up to a DB 25 cable, and have project boxes with different system controller PCBs inside.
That’s a lot of hot glue…
I agree.
One thing I say about hot glue alot of modders do not realize is, you should avoid Solder joints.
The High temps of hot glue can weaken solder work and create stress points for failure.
That Snes IC covered in glue is a no go. Good solder work in it self should be strong enough to hold those wires into place. All that hot glue did was to loosen any solder joints.
The Way to use Hot glue with electronics, is holding parts into place and wire management and wire strain relieve.
You can use tiny amounts of glue to tack wires to unpopulated parts of the board for wire strain relieve and for some wire management.
The controller works very well, both the d-pad and buttons. The d-pad used conductive silicone pad oririginal Saturn controller.
It has the same answer as the original, but with a softer touch. And the buttons are better and softer than the originals.
to my I love what has been and what well it works.
edit: Hot silicone is so not move anything. As I said, the controller works very well.
Just saying, be careful with Hot glue as you can and will weaken solder joints.
Glue should be applied to the insulated wiring for retention and wire management and never to the actual solder work. A good solder bond should be strong enough that a lite-pull on the wiring does not undo any bonds.
Other than my critique on the use of glue, your work been Text book.
The buttons feel better than the originals, soft and pleasant touch and also work smoother when tightening, by conductive silicone pad of the SNES control pad. 
adapters-converters controllers:
SNES to Ps2/Ps1
Ps1/Ps2 to Dreamcast
Ps1/Ps2 to Xbox Original
Ps1/Ps2 to Xbox 360 and PS3
Ps1/Ps2 to USB PC
SNES to NES Classic Mini/SNES Classic Mini
Ps1/Ps2 to Game Cube and to Switch
Ps1/Ps2 to Wii
SNES to NES…
edit: about the hot silicone on welds, I’ve seen it in welding cables RGB/scart and consoles. It’s okay to put it in the welds. It is to hold them. I cannot find any problem in that.
That’s what we’re going at: there shouldn’t be any reason to put that.
Your soldering joint should be strong enough to not need the hot glue. In fact, the hot glue on the joint causes two (or three) problems:
That being said, I also find it also a little odd that you went with the layout that you did (YXR-BAL) when the default configuration for fighting games on the SNES (as far as I can remember) has always been YXL-BAR.
I’m going to fix the placement of buttons R and L.
News. Mod Final. 
Photos in the first message.
