@Tensho The extra metal plate is the “button layout layer” so that we can make one body and people can pick the button layout of their choice. If you wanted to switch button layouts in the future you wouldn’t have to buy a whole new box. Also this allows for more color combinations for people that aren’t going the plexi route. The Gen4 boxes that we are waiting to get back from the metal cutter have a larger opening which will support 9 button layouts. This is a Gen3 box with and without the button layer:
Wow, these look really clean. I can’t wait to see what your next builds look like. Also, good to see something so incredibly dope coming out of Chico, welcome fellow Californian!
Extra holes in the back won’t be a problem. We already made a change to the Gen4 where we moved the Neutrik hole over so it falls in between the JLF and the buttons. That way if you are using a straight USB cable it doesn’t run right into your first set of buttons. Here is an unfolded version of the case and I just made a quick 4 button layout. I’d love to hear how you guys think the layout should be and what buttons you would assign to which holes. Also, if anyone wants the case in raw steel so you can do some mods before you put a finish on it that’s not a problem.
The buttons on the back are pretty much preference on which button should be assigned to which hole, but from left to right I would do Touchpad click button, PS/home, Share, Option.
What type of layouts are you planning? They have some layouts that the stick is further from the buttons but that could be done if your hole cut out is large enough.
http://i.imgur.com/t1GLn.png
Got holes? This is what we have so far. Also we could make an alternate case with the joystick farther out but all the same button layouts available. I’ll have to have my Solidworks guy put that mod on the todo list. How much distance do you guys want from the stick to the buttons?
Are there going to be options for button holes on the side panels? In terms of spacing for the joystick, as long as a hayabusa doesn’t interfere with the buttons, then we’re copacetic.
Yes, button holes on the side panels as well. Everyone has so many great ideas and personal preferences we hope to offer a variety of body sizes and layouts so there is something for everyone. This design is just a starting point to get the manufacturing figured out and to streamline the process so we can try to adapt to as many custom requests as possible.
Thanks so much! I’m glad you like the look. Also thanks to everyone for the great feedback.
Looking good! Can’t wait to see & read all the guinea pig sticks! :#
I’m really digging the look. Might order one if you ship to Canada, eventually.
You can buy stuff from them from Ebay.ca and shipping is quite cheap, at least for big things like the case.
It says in the descriptions of the cases that the plexi is provided by tek innovations. Are these specially cut, or are they something like the TE plexi?
@Finest_KO Arthur at Tek-Innovations cut these specifically for our enclosure based on the DXF files we sent him.
anybody gotten one of these yet? I’d like to hear what people think.
How do these play , on carpet, in the winter? I was just wondering, since I live in OH and had problems with the madcatz SE with the metal bottom plate on it, shorting due to static electricity.
How to solve any static issues with any stick. Attach anywhere on the metal panel where you could a wire. Like one of the screws on the Joystick mount would work.
Connect this to ground on your printed circuit board or to the ground of the USB cable.
This way any static is dissipated to ground. Its how an anti-static wrist strap works.
Hori T5 button layout would be nice (last 6).
I got mine today…and I am very impressed with how hefty and well built the case is. It weighs just unser 10 lbs…about the size of a TE and solid…can’t wait to load it up.
Did it come with a Neutrik or was that just for the pictures?