You take off the plate entirely. The domes your red arrows point to fit into the blue plastic housing of an ls32. You remove the plexi and screw the steel plate to the ls32 body.
Okay guys, thanks for all of the help. The stick arrived yesterday, and the stock parts are better than I thought they’d be. I’m still going to change them, however.
I have one more inquiry: Are the button holes spaced far enough that I can use PS14-GN buttons?
I am curious how everyone got the existing artwork off the plexiglass. I could not figure out how to peel it (even after applying some heat). I just started scraping it off, and then decided to just fabricate my own without the magnets.
If mechanical force alone doesn’t work, try solvents/chemicals.
If that doesn’t work, try heat.
If that doesn’t work, try both of the above (heat catalyzes exothermic reactions).
The most important part of all, however, is to be patient. The method might be working, but not at your pace.
You should know the materials you are working with and their tolerances, so don’t pick a solvent that will decompose the material you care about (too fast), and take note of its elastic modulus especially when working with heat.
If the art wasn’t coming off easily, the adhesive attaching it may have decomposed in the heat, possibly prior to your work (during shipping or in storage).
Soooo I just want to get this stick and put sanwa parts in it…will I need anything other than a scre drver for the the stick…shouldn’t it fit right in like it says on the box?
Soooo I just want to get this stick and put sanwa parts in it…will I need anything other than a scre drver for the the stick…shouldn’t it fit right in like it says on the box?
Please respond.
Okay I think this answers my question about the stick, could someone go into more depth about this is actually done (besides getting the correct conductor cables). Do you have to solder anything, ect.?
Okay following these string of qutes I sort of understand, now. So basically, in the image by deserada there isn’t any desoldering? So, he bought the the specified conductor cables and just connected them to the jlf and the ‘empty’ spot on the pcb? This was done with no soldering correct?
I just got one. Acrylic with paint on the back. The only part that is vinyl appears to be the LED cutouts and labels(small small recatangle, probably too hard to mask for painting). Doesn’t look possible to salvage the faceplate, replacement is the only option.
Opened mine up just now to check. The graphics were silkscreened on the back of the acrylic, so a solvent is the way to go.
Personally, if I replaced artwork on one of these I wouldn’t make LED cutouts or labels. I never label my buttons because they’re never used in one configuration (and also for the sake of minimalism). The LEDs will shine through your print unless it’s some crazy thick cardstock or vinyl that probably wouldn’t fit flush anyway.
Using solvents to remove the paint is a bad idea? If that’s what you meant, I just assumed you know how to use them properly.
Not sure how mechanically weaker parts of the plexi factor in here.
I would test this myself with different solvents and see what works best (guessing some flavour of paint thinner), but I’m on campus and don’t presently have access to my workshop/materials.
Neither of my two Mayflash V2 sticks have any chipped paint.
Just to make sure, to remove the stock stick, you would just unscrew it and ‘unplug’ (no tools necessary?) the 4, uh, white boxes (sorry don’t know the jargon for this) connecting it to the pcb, right?
You have to wiggle off the quick disconnects. Each wire going to the stick terminates in a spade-like connector (quick disconnect) which is pressed onto the switches for each direction. Gently wiggle them up and down while pulling away from the lever and they’ll slip off.
Finally, unscrew the balltop and then the mounting plate (four screws accessed from bottom).
I’m confused, I’m getting the stick this friday, so I dont have it in front of me, but you ar talking about those white boxes on the pcb connected to the wires coming from the stick the, right? Can these be put back on if you want to reinstall the stock?
Each microswitch on the joystick(up, down, left, right) has two wires soldered to it(not quick disconnects). These two wires go to a two pin jack on the PCB. You’ll want to remove the four plugs on the PCB, and the four screws mounting the joystick. You can now remove the joystick and it will have 4 two wire connectors dangling off it if you want to reinstall later.
The 4 2 wire plugs(PCB side, the ones you want to remove) and the two mounting screws visible from this angle are marked marked with red. The port for the 5 pin cable is marked in green, and don’t forget to have a ziptie handy(you’ll have to snip the old one to get the old joystick’s wires free from the cabling bundle)
tools you will need: Phillips screwdriver for mounting screws, flathead screwdriver to remove balltop, nippers or scissors to cut ziptie. Not exactly sans tools, but nothing super exotic(damn you torx!)
The magnets might have been installed with some force. There were tiny chips near about half of them them on my fightstick. At least one had a few tiny fractures around it. Capillary action says at this point solvents are a no go.
@KGeddon has this right, I was thinking of a different stick. They’re all connected to the board via JST headers and soldered to the lever. When you remove the lever (after unplugging each switch from the board) just leave the wires hanging off of it.
Gotcha. You can bond/repair those fractures with acetone (preferably ethyl acetate), but it’s your call.
Yeah, I have acetone laying around for gluing 3d printed parts if I need to. Might just experiment on it as a waste part and try to figure out what solvent would work to remove the paint without destroying the acrylic.
