invalid signature tells me i could have sent an atmega8 instead of 88 by accident… in which case its a simple adjustment to the command line… if its not that, then its going to be driver related to the usb programmer… as for sync, S4+S5 was originally assigned to switch power between 360 and PS3 pcb… which has changed in the second version of the code to activate sync instead… normally i assign S5 to up… another thing to try i just remembered is to disconnect the battery from masterstrike prior to using ISP pins to program…
hmmm… so if I use the new code, I lose the ability to switch power between PCBs. Great if you’re using a physical switch to flip power between PCBs, not so great if you’re using the masterstrike to switch power (like I have set up)
As for the programming, the battery was disconnected, and a jumper was run on pads 1-3 and 4-6 on the back.
Oh, thats sad. So Mike, Spenzalii, Im somehow lost… What should I implement exactly then?
I’ll post my setup in a bit to show what I wanted and how I have it set up now. I think I have it wired to work like I want, and I may have figured out the charging bit as well (which I’ll post and test this evening). The only question would be getting the sync to work, either with the masterstrike, a small button, or something else I’m thinking about…
USB Data Line question - wireless
Here’s something I was wondering about for a wireless setup: Would it matter if the USB data lines for the PS3 and 360 PCBs were wired together? Since input data isn’t transmitted over USB lines, only sync info (apparently), in theory, I could wire them both together to the USB connector. Since only one board will be powered up at a time, the USB sync data should only go to that board. Obviously this wouldn’t work on a wired setup, but if it could work on a wireless setup, that’s one other way to get around the 360 sync issue
Quick Update…
I double checked the chip. It does say ATMEGA88, so I’m not sure what’s going on with the programmer at this point. But reading the way the new firmware worked, I don’t know if I would want it flashed anyway, as you’ll see with the setup.
I figured out why it wasn’t charging. Because of space issues, I had to solder the USB cable to the sixaxis. Apparently, 2 of the connections came loose. Once I soldered them back on and used some hot glue (which I should have done at the beginning) it’s charging. I’ll hit it with the mulitmeter to see how slowly we’re talking about.
In my haste to hot glue the wires together, I forgot to solder wires to chain the data lines of the two boards together to see if it would work. At this point I don’t really feel like peeling the glue off, removing both boards and soldering lines back in, so I may just have a small button wired up for the 360 sync and call it a day. I didn’t want to cut the plexi on the case, but something has to give.
Here’s how I had things set up:
I’ve got a 8 button wireless setup, with the leo board on the PS3 and the latest Microsoft CG wireless controller. Arc eyes are wired common ground for button press light up. Using 32Teeth’s setup as inspiration, I wired up female pin headers to the blue and green lines of the arc eyes for the first 6 buttons, then set a jumper across all 3 terminals on the last 2 buttons. That way the main punch and kick buttons can switch between blue and green depending on which system I’m using and the last 2 stay white regardless (much like the TE sticks). As recommended by purplearms, I ran the USB cable directly of the sixaxis PCB to the neutrick for sync and charge for the PS3. On the masterstrike (v1 firmware), I have the PS3 and 360 PCBs wired to switch power between the two (I didn’t want to do that with a switch), ran the LED chains to LED1 and LED2, and ran the 2 white buttons to ACC1. I connected the select button to S1, which is also jumpered to S2 and S4. S5 was wired to up, S6 to down, S7 to left, S8 to right. Assuming everything is connected correctly, when I first power on the joystick it should go into PS3 mode, with the blue LEDs on. If I were to hold select when powering up, it should go to 360 mode with the green LEDs on. I can now cycle between blue, green and cyan with select and right, turn everything off with select and down, and turn the white lights on and off with select and left.
The only things left are the charging and 360 syncing. After some headscratching, I think I figured out a way to have the battery charge directly thru the sixaxis PCB while the stick was off, then route the power back to the masterstrike using a dpdt switch. But, since it’s charging thru the masterstrike now (albiet slowly), I may or may not wire that up. For the sync, if I read the descriptions correctly, if I flashed the masterstrike and soldered the 360 sync button to the masterstrike, I lose one of the power switching channels (if I’m wrong, let me know and I"ll go back to figuring out what’s wrong with the programmer). I’ve got a tiny spst button I can wire up, which would be the easiest thing to do. Ir, I could run the data lined of the two PCBs together to enable syncing thru the USB (assuming that works, which hadn’t been confirmed yet).
I modded my TE with Arc-Eyes and Master Strike:
[media=youtube]ooDOxOsOFEU[/media]
Pictures are here.
The firmware and the schematic for the wiring are in the Master Strike Subversion repository.
Very nice! Thanks for sharing!
i was really interested in getting these, altho on the manufacturer’s website, looking at the spec sheet for this series (AH), i couldnt find the hole diameter, but every single one around it. what size mm hole would these fit in? how much did they cost you? do they sell per each or i have to buy a bunch?
Thanks for that. It clarified a bunch of stuff for me.
Oh my, well aren’t these the most gorgeous things ever.
Quick concern of mine is that the actuation force of 500gf, which seems like a lot. Is this all that much of an issue?
I improved my LED project to support 8 buttons and added more modes:
[media=youtube]2RA3ZnZmuE4[/media]
cabling (image)
In real life the flickering is not noticable.
holy shit batman!
fantastic work! +1
very creative. very impressive.
for a screen saver mode on my sparky i added a Simon game. i can share code. would be cool to see on a MS/TE project.
Seriously shiny work, dude. I’m a noob, so I don’t really understand a lot of this shiz (but I’m trying to learn so I can do my own pimpin’ mod saome day) but it looks like you should have more wires? 0_o
How do you have so many individual configurations with so few wires going to the buttons/arceyes?
If anyone has an idiots guide to hooking up arceyes with a controller board, please link me to it.
/noob out.
wow man that is some serious great work programming all those modes! and with a masterstrike to boot! wow i can wait to see what you can do with the sparky!
Man, that’s pretty effin’ amazing right there
Thank you all 
Always happy about positive feedback
There are 11 wires (the rainbow cable ending in the D-SUB15, 8 buttons and one each for red, green & blue) going to the Arc Eyes, they split up into 8x4 wires. It’s the same as for Sparky Jr. from the wiring perspective.
In my knowledge there isn’t except for the first posts in the Arc-Eyes thread, sorry.
I will elaborate on what IvIePhisto started
Essentially, this is called multiplexing.
Easiest way to think about it is as follows.
Take 11 wires (or pencil lines on the paper)
Draw 8 vertical lines (these are your commons to the RGB LED), label them 1 - 8
Draw 3 horizontal lines that cross the vertical 8. label the reg, green, blue.
The action happens where the lines cross.
Now, how do we do individual cycling without affecting the rest of the lights. You pulse very very very quickly. As fast as the clock speed on the chip or resonator attached to the chip.
See above
Are you talking about the MasterStrike controller board? Sparky Jr? or a custom board? More info needed please.
I made a wiring diagram, could have thought of it earlier :wgrin:
It’s in the directory of my MS firmware in the SVN: Common Anode Wiring.
Maybe this helps…
