SO you use a 4066 instead of transistors?
Yeah, I do for the color lines. Didn’t have the right transistors (PNP I think?), but the 4066s work well for now.
Well, I figures out one issue with my M$. I forgot to run a jumper across the switch terminals since I wasn’t using it. After that, the channels startes seeing power. Now, I do have one interesting thing going on. Channel 1 and 2 (PCB channels) seem to both be reading power. Channel 1 had around 5v when plugged to the USB, and channel 2 has about 3.6v. The other 4 are either 5v or 0v. Strange. I need to flip it and see if any of mu jumpers came off
My Arcade stick
Hello to all,
I’m new on this forum,my name is guydw.I was very inspired by all of your builds here, so thats why i decided to start my own.
Special thanks go to Bencao74, because he helped me out with some problems and gave really good service to me!
Another Big thank you goes to Ivlephisto, i was very inspired by his setup and the firmware he programmed.Without his help i couldn’t have build this, really appreciated everything you did !
The firmware on my setup running the masterstrike pcb is the same as his.
This forum is fantastic!
All other details are in the video,
hope you like it…
grts
Guydw…
[media=youtube]QG9BX4lw1C8[/media]
Great stick and great video, awesome job! I’m happy everything worked out and that I could help you 
I don’t understand a word of this, but it makes your stick do cool stuff so I must have one!
Thanks for the nice comment!
Very nice!! Congratulations!! You should consider making the rear panel attach with rare earth magnets instead of velcro maybe? =D
really great video presentation! Absolute ql Stuff! keep it on, guy!!
Thanks to all ,nice to hear this.
@purplearms: i’ll look into those magnets, whats the average thickness of those magnets, any links?
Guy
Yeah they’re called Neodymium rare earth magnets. Magcraft sells such things in different sizes, shapes and strength:
Amazon.com: Magcraft NSN0601 1/4-Inch by 1/10-Inch Rare Earth Disc Magnets, 50-Count: Home Improvement
You might want to do a little research on them because they can be so strong that its very difficult to separate two magnets by hand… hehe…
those neodyminum magnets are no joke. I used them on one project I had. A word of advice: don’t have them stick together! You can use a small metal washer on the underside of the plexi amd countersink the magnets in the support blocks
Sorry for the randomness but i was just wondering how the MSR was coming.
MSR is on ice… MS was intended for controlling power to other devices in addition to LEDs (i.e., wireless PCBs) which is usefull in wireless joystick setups… MSR was going to take it a step further and double as a LED controller, but Sparky has since been born
MSR sounds like something @ the bank!
Ok because i wanted to be able to do the exact LED mod that guydw did with the exception of the Joystick and he used a MS. I figured it would be better to wait but now its on ice. So i guess the only question i have left would be…Would it be possible to do that same mod with the Sparky or would i still need the MS. Im only doing an LED mod so would i somehow be able to program the sparky to do that mod or am i going to require the MS to have enough power to do all that plus the programming?
MS is a little more complicated to manage because all the LEDs are lit all at the same time. I really only recommend it for experienced modders. Sparky technically is only lighting one button at any given point in time (due to multiplexing: the human eye cannot see how fast it is turning on each LED on and off, and it gives the appearance that LEDs are on at the same time). Therefore it is far more power efficient. This is a huge advantage for wired joystick users who have limited amount of current via USB. Both sparky and MS are programmable so the same lighting is possible on sparky (except for select + joystick direction mode switching, but there are ways around that if you know how to program).
Alternately, if you have a little soldering experience, masterstrike was hacked by Mephisto to do basically what sparky does. He posted the firmware in here and a video demonstration somewhere in here
so in short, anything is possible depending on how far you want to chase the rabbit down the hole…
By “Same Lighting” do you mean that I’ll be able to get the Rainbow effect. sorry if these are dumb question. I totally understand that Sparky is programmable so i should be able to do all of these different effects but i just wanna make sure before i buy anything. As one of the wisest men on Earth once said " plan your stick well ahead of time"…(Caugh Caugh Purplearms) :woot::clown::bgrin:
Lol… with masterstrike the way i have it on my own stick, each button has three colors… red green blue… each color is hooked up to a channel… 1 2 and 3… i can switch between channels to switch from any combination of red/green/blue…
with sparky, you can have the colors change when you press buttons (such as focus, taunt, etc)… read though the sparky thread and watch the vids there to see what it is capable of…
http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-sparky-thread-massive-update-intro-config-mode-251717/
I’ve read all of that already, even how to wire it up and everything. It says "On the six pin FTDI header, the recommended setup is to solder your VCC and GND headers to the appropriate pins (#4 and #5 respectively). The customization starts here. If you are creative or adventurous and decide to want to upload your own program to the ATMEG328 you can solder a 6 pin header and upload via FTDI. If you solder a 6 pin header to the FTDI connection, you will need to solder your VCC and GND input lines to the underside of the board. "
So if i do this and somehow write the correct programing, would i be able to get that same rainbow effect?