Just about to wire this M$ up this week. I will be asking plenty questions…
Question time! For a wireless setup:
- For the USB lines for the 2 PCBs: Do I have to wire up the ground line from the USB solder points, or will the ground from the negative battery terminal on both PCBs suffice?
- Assuming I were using a smaller capacity battert or didn’t mind an 18 hour recharge, would the joystick need to be turned on to charge thru the USB port, or can it charge while switched off?
- If I wanted S1 thru S3 to combined, I should just connect whichever signal line (select, LP, etc) to S1 ad run a jumper wire to S2 and S3 on the board, correct?
- For on the fly switching (S4), can I use the same signal line as connected for S1, or would it just be better to use a separate signal (keep LP for S1 and select/back for S4)?
I’m pretty sure I know the answer for this one, but I figure I may as well ask anyway. Here’s teh scenario: The Arc-eyes are setup common ground for the whole button press lightup deal. The LP,MP, HP, LK,MK,and HK each have 2 power lines going to the pin headers, one for blue and one for green. These will switch depending on which system I’m using. The 3PPP/3KKK buttons only have 1 power line going to one of the terminals on the arc-eye, which has a jumper across all 3 connections to make those 2 buttons light up white regardless of the system. If I still wanted the option to turn everything off at once, I should run the blue and green LEDs to LED1 and LED2, run the white LEDs to ACC1, and not wire anything to S3 or S7. That way, when I wire and activate S6, all of the lights will be switched off. Right? Close? Off base?
Ok…
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For USB lines, usb cable shares ground with ground lines on both xbox and ps3 usb… same with +5v power…
however i found out (thanks to Toodles) that the 4066N that is used on masterstrike has too high of an “ON” resistance… this doesn’t affect PS3, but for xbox USB connection it causes some interference… enough that usb sync behavior isnt consistent… so i will have to get some new 4066N and make you a new board, or you can do a workaround like I did… which is connect the USB cable from the usb port diretly to PS3 PCB (bypass masterstrike alltogether), then i soldered a wire from xbox controller pcb sync button signal to pin #15 of the masterstrike microcontroller… Then with bencao’s help, i changed up+select to press the xbox sync button… this basically solves the problem, since xbox usb is only used to sync (the controler still runs wirelessly even if you plug the usb cable in)… i can send you the code to flash your chip if you have a programmer… or i can mail you a replacement microprocessor with that code… -
the long recharge problem has been solved… its because the transistors being used on masterstrike are not efficient at low currents, thus only a fraction of the power is used to recharge the controller… therefore if you dont want to put up with long recharge times, you need a DPDT switch… one pole to switch VCC from power between controller PCBs, one pole to switch power to masterstrike (similar to how my dpdt diagram describes it)… so therefore you can’t use masterstre to power the PCBs… this solution takes away the nice feature to change LED colors depending on the system
but you can still change them on the fly, or by holding a button on startup… -
yes, you can jumper S1-S2-S3
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yes S1 and S4 can be the same button… so essentially you can jumper S1-S2-S3-S4
but you can still change them on the fly, or by holding a button on startup…as for your final question: select + down (S4 +S6) turns off ALL LED and ACC channels, so naturally any leds connected to that will turn off… select + right (s4+s8) will toggle between LED channels (LED1, LED2, LED1+2 ON, LED1+2 off), and select + left (s4+s7) has the same behavior for ACC channels… that gives you individual control of ACC and LED channels too… so you can choose to turn off ACC while leaving LED channels on for example…
Thanks for the reply. Definitely helps to work thru some of these wiring and programming issues that’s hard for me to visualize.
I think I understand the USB line thing. Since the PS3 uses the USB to sync and charge (not necessarily to transmit data) and the 360 PCB just uses it to sync, there really isn’t need to run the USB cables to the Masterstrike, unlike with a wires setup. Once the PCB is powers up, it sends everything wirelessly. As for flashing the board I have, I don’t have a programmer, but it looks like I should probably invest in one rather than having another ATMega shipped here. Would this one do the trick?
SparkFun Electronics - Pocket AVR Programmer
Call me super stubborn, but I just don’t want to wire up a DPDT switch and would rather have the Masterstrike power up both boards, even if it means slow charging (which means I’d have to at least wire up the USB lines from the PS3 PCB to the Masterstrike, but would I still have the USB cable from the board run to the Neutrick as well?). The only other option I could see is running a charging connector to the battery itself (or bypass the switch on the masterstrike and and attach the switch w/ charging jack to the battery. I have a few lying around somewhere from my R/C cars). Or, I could stop being stubborn…
The last 3 questions are just great. Since I want the LEDs either to be all on, be it blue or green, or all off, I could wire like this:
Jumper wire from S1, S2, and S4, with the select wired to S1. Signal line for down wired to S6, right to S8, left to S5. With the reprogrammed code, this should allow me to sync with select +up, toggle the blue/green LEDs with select + right, swap PCB power with select + left, and cut the LEDs off (blue/green and white) with select + down. Since the white will stay white and have nothing to swap/toggle between, I would wire it to ACC1 and have nothing wired to S3 or S7, so they will either be on or off
masterstrike uses the newer 6 pin avr programming interface… most older avr usb programmers have 10 pin interface… which can be converted to 6 pin interface… but its easier just to get a programmer thats already 6 pin… like this one…
Pololu - Pololu USB AVR Programmer
i understand why you dont want a dpdt switch… neither did i and i’m stubborn too… you could even get away with no switch to masterstrike (just put a wire to bridge the “Switch” screw terminals) and it will very slowly drain when not in use… charging definitely works through masterstrike… just slow as hell… lol…
i considered putting an AC charger, but could not find a nice pass through barrel jack for a DC adapter… thats the only thing that stopped me from doing that… plus not wanting to carry around a DC adapter when i go play at friends houses…
theres no need to run usb cable from neturik to masterstrike… just plug it into the ps3 controller… that doesnt have an effect on recharging… it only really affects 360 sync… wired users wont even need the USB switching on masterstrike since dualstrike and cthulu already has the function built into it… i only added it to the board so that wireless users could use it… as a matter of fact, you could even use an imp board to do USB switching if you dont want to do the same thing i did by connecting wireless sync button and re-assigning up+select… you would connect the signal line from imp in parallel with S1+S2+S3+S4
Something doesnt quite add up in your last paragraph… in default code, S4+S5 changes PCB power and switches USB… you have that assigned as select + left… thats ok…
select + right (s4 + S8) to switch LEDs… thats ok…
select+ down S4 + s6) to cut all power… thats ok…
so if you dont want to bother with switching ACC on and off, you can re-assign select + up (S4 + S7) to trigger xbox sync button… by doing this, you lose the ability to turn white LEDs on after you turn them off with select + down… that would be a problem if you decide not to have an on/off switch for masterstrike…
I’ll order that programmer today.
Hmmmm… never considered how to turn ACC back on. I guess if I have the programmer I can tweak the code so S6 would toggle between all on or all off, but I’d have to decide on whether to turn both the blue and green on or specify which LED to turn back on in that instance.
I was trying to figure out for the life of me how the battery would recharge thru the Masterstrike if I didn’t have the USB from the PS3 wired to it but it dawned on me. It will charge thru the positive lead from the PS3 PCB that’s wired to the masterstrike. Guess I can desolder those wires from both USB points on the PCB this evening. I’m still considering wiring up a charge port for the battery, but have to figure out where. The case I’m using doesn’t exactly lend itself to many modifications without screwing something up royally.
As for the switch, I’m considering using a latching Reed switch, but I’d need to find a way to keep that magnet handy…
The programmer just came in. Shoot me the revised code and I’ll get the M$ flashed. Since I’m doing a wireless setup, so I need to wire jumpers for a wired setup, flash the M$, then change the jumpers back to a wireless setup?
For the Sync button on the 360 PCB - where did you wire the lead? I can’t quite figure out where to solder the wire. Once I get this straightened out, I should be able to finish up the wiring (for the most part). I still need to get the switch taken care of, but that’s a smaller issue.
edit methinks I see where the lead should go. I can either solder the lead to the middle terminal on the switch (which I’m pretty sure of) or to the hole where the trace is just to the left of the button (which I’m not as sure of). I’ve got the latest version of the CG wireless board
Still working out a minor bug with the sync as up+select… will post once its worked out…
On the masterstrike, the 4066N / USB switching is electrically isolated from the rest of the board. The reason is because wireless is 3.7v, USB is 5v. On wired setup, everything is 5v so you solder the jumpers on the back to connect everything… there is another jumper on SPST to bypass the switch in a wireless setup (can be done with a wire jumper too)…
the sync button makes contact to three pads on the 360 pcb… the middle one is the signal… if you can’t solder to that, the signal routes to the microprocessor and there should be a via hole you can tap into… carefully follow the trace down the board until you find it… a multimeter can be used to confirm…
Yeah once you see the code, you will be able to figure out how to change the settings to your liking… just recompile and flash…
[quote=“spenzalii, post:146, topic:95294”]
I was trying to figure out for the life of me how the battery would recharge thru the Masterstrike if I didn’t have the USB from the PS3 wired to it but it dawned on me. It will charge thru the positive lead from the PS3 PCB that’s wired to the masterstrike.
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All you need is to provide +5v to ps3 controller (taken from USB), and the battery should be connected to the ps3 pcb as well… the problem with the slow charge is the way power is provided to ps3 pcb… its not efficient when the current level is low (i.e., during a recharge)…
I managed to solder the kynar to the middle contact on the sync button last night, so I’m good there. I’ll wait until the new code is ready, solder the jumpers for a wired setup, flash the M$, change the jumpers, then finish wiring everything up. I’ll probably download the current code and have a look at that. First time programming or coding anything like this…
Yeah if you have a hot glue gun, it would be a good idea to drop some glue over the sync button contact pad…
Good idea. I’ll take care of that tonight. I’ll get everything else wired up to the Leo and just keep the leads free for the masterstrike.
Well, I got parts of the stick done. The PS3 side works. Now I have to wire up the M$trike. I’ll probably just use the switch and a small button for teh sync for the time being, then go back in and rewire once the new code is set.
Still need to find a latching reed switch though
I’ve got a new code from Benca74 that i will test tonight. will let you know 
Sweet! If it works, I’ll hold off on wiring up the M$trike and the sync button
Any word on how the new code worked out?
seems to be working… will share soon after i’m done testing…
ok here you go… second version of masterstrike firmware…
zip file contains the .hex file needed to flash, and the .c source file…
this one allows select + up to activate sync button… just wire sync to pin 15 of the microcontroller (diagram is in the masterstrike V1 specs)
https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0Bw1KzeOKKQ4KNTdmN2RiYzktNDU5My00MTFlLWFiNGYtMzM0NzkyMjBlNzg1&hl=en
Downloaded the code, but got a funny error message:
avrdude: error: could not find USB device "USBasp with vid=0x16c0 pid=0x5dc
Absolutely no clue what that means…
Sounds like a wrong programmer config… do you use the same programmer mike uses?
Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk
Honestly, I’m not sure. I picked up the Pololu USB AVR programmer. I went thru the user documents early this morning. There were two things I had to change. I told it to read from com3 (since it couldn’t seem to find anuthing for usb) and switched the device to avrispv2, per the programmer guide. So, the line looked like this:
avrdude -p m88 -P com3 -c avrispv2 -U flash:w:Masterstrike.HEX -F
Unfortunately I got another error code: invalid device signature. Mike wonders if there’s a atmega8 on board instead, which I will check tonight.
Just thought about something. For the sync, I’m supposed to wire the sync button line to pin 16 on the master$trike, which will be assigned S4+up (select+up in my case) to sync. Would this affect S5-S8 in any way? I just realized if I wire up S7 to, say, select + L2 I can turn my acc line back on once I cut them off with S6 (this probably makes more sense to Mike as he knows my current setup)