Thank you to the video, I now understand.
I was so confused.
That why I didn’t make Post in this Thread.
Laugh.
SHINY!!!
O.o
That video is great, PurpleArms!
Hey Purplearms,
great video!! Saw first time the MasterStrike in Action. So glad that the fw works. Sure, more testing is needed 
…
Okay, heres the firmware
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Yes i hope it helps people understand better what it is we are doing… haha…
I’ve removed the beta firmware from the google folder, and put the new source there (so that its not so confusing).
Ah, okay,
Ive made a fodler in the SVN repository where Dual Strike resides. So, now weve finished that, we could add a attraction mode to your light setup? If joystick not moved about 5sec then start alarm lights about player falls asleep?
SVN repository? Whats that?
Sure… perhaps make the indicator LED change colors, and cycle through LED1, LED2, ACC1, ACC2 a few times
I think maybe a good future mod is to allow users to set and save default confiuration somehow… something like hold select (S4) on startup to enter programming mode, then use joystick to set exactly what you want to be on and off in default mode… hold select and S1 on startup to allow programming of what S1 does, and so on for S2 and S3… ?
A Version Control System for tracking all the updates and the system. Check it out 
Haha… so now that i got my MSV1s i’ll probably start trying to wire that stuff up asap so i can work on assembling my arc eyes lol but I’ve already forgotten some things (trying to refresh my memory rofl) and was wondering if these were correct… First off, for wired usb users, the area marked USB has “+” which should equal VCC correct? and also “-” which should equal GND correct? also whats “|D” since thats making me quite curious lol?
Also looking at the board i totally forgot about the area labeled S1-S8 ROFL… now since MSV1 is currently running on default logic I read the code specs ya put up on google doc. and I just wanted to confirm if this is the correct signals to wire to: S4 = Select/Back, S5 = Up, S6 = Down, S7 = Left, and S8 = Right? … along with that, could i ignore wiring S1-S3 since those are used for switching of pcb,led,acc on start up? As a ChImp user, switching of pcbs is already automatic and for arc-eyes leds the controls would use on the fly switching of S4-S8 and so that just left me curious if i still needed to wire S1-S3…
yes you are correct… the + and - are for + and - for usb cables from 360 and ps3, but since you do not need to do usb switching, you can re-use + and - to tap into USB power… notice that there are a bunch of - spots around the board (on left of screw terminal, to the right of JOY, to the right of s1-s8)… those are all ground spots and you can wire to any of those… also, just for wired/usb users like yourself, you can also simply use BATT- screw terminal for ground, and SWITCH #2 screw terminal to tap into power (its the fourth screw terminal from the left)…
“ID” is the 5th pin of the usb mini-B cable and its not actually connected to anything… i’m not even sure what it does… lol…
Correct… i dont recall how you wanted to set up your LEDs (sorry! hard to keep track of everyone’s setup!) i’m assuming that you are powering one set of colors through LED1? LED1 is automatically on, as soon as power is provided to masterstrike… so to switch it off, you can use S4 + S8… so if your setup is as simple as that, you dont need to connect S5,S6,S7 if you dont want to… you could even assign S8 to start instead of joystick right (so switching leds on and off would be select + start)…
On startup:
S1 is to switch from PS3 PCB to 360 PCB power (you can wire LEDs here too… not just controller PCBs… )
S2 is to switch from LED1 to LED2
S3 is to switch from ACC1 to ACC2
Totally not necessary since there is on the fly switching. And may not even be applicable since not everyone will use the second set of power channels (360 pcb power, led2, acc2)…
Just sent my cash. Now all I need are the case (pretty big item, I must say), the 360 controller, and the time to solder everything. I’ll be asking about setups soon, believe me!
@purplearms:
lol thanks for confirming those for me =D actually my setup is running blue leds on arc eyes through 6 channels for the crazy light show antics we discussed a while back lol (3 modes of either continuous lights, vegas rotation, and 2 lights chase … when of course a code is written lol) i was going to wire it accordingly to ur post from a while back: http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=229306&p=8635259&viewfull=1#post8635259 but since u just mentioned I could simply wire all 8 arc eyes to LED1 for the meantime i’ll probably just do that for now since i can just attach them to a terminal strip i already installed lol… and then of course when it comes time for me to flash MSV1 i can reconfigure the setup solder free =D Also for S4-S8 imma just wire it as specified earlier since in the long run they probably will be used rofl… well time to start working on this right now and see where this leads me lol…
Hey guys… its been a while in between updates…
I’ve had an issue with wireless battery operation with masterstrike and i’m closing in on the solution. I will update post #3 with this information.
There is no issue using this with a wired setup. Check out this setup on Toshinu’s stick!
So it was the LED all along? Interesting. I’ll make sure not to solder it on there.
The case should be done soon, so I’ll be able to bug the hell out of you guys to get this wired up. BTW, what are the stock programmed options with the M$? Need to figure out if I need to program it (and if so, how the hell do I do that…)
Yeah check out the 3rd post for the stock programmed options… the firmwares will be put there, and there will be a link to a google doc to explain what exactly does what… check it out and let me know if you have questions…
Yeah how odd that it was the LED causing incorrect battery status on ps3 eh? out of all things… i need to further investigate why in the future… but for now, just dont solder the LED onto the back and there should be no problem… as for the slow recharge, if you use regular ps3 battery (750mAH) you can still use masterstrike to power both boards as intended, if you can put up with 6-9h recharge time from fully drained to full. For a giant 6AH battery it took 72-80H which is unacceptable. So if you have bigger battery to power LEDs, you can do what I did which was to use the DPDT switch (one pole to power masterstrike, one pole to switch VCC to ps3 and 360 controllers).
Also, while USB switching works, I really don’t like how 360 syncs using USB. Its inconsistent behavior i find. So I will need to change the code to make select + up to activate the 360 sync button. A wire hack will need to be made from sync button on 360 controller to one of the pins of the microchip… i will post pics and details when completed (this weekend i’m aiming for)… i just plugged one end of my neturik port directly into the ps3 controller pcb instead of using MS to switch usb lines… makes install a little easier…
I’ll have a looksie once I get off work. I think the default program should do the trick, since the most I’ll do with this stick is switch PCBs and LEDs. I’m toying with the idea of switching between the systems using a button combination and M$ instead of using the DPDT switch, but I need to see how complicated the wiring would be if I did that.
I did wonder about the on the fly switching. If I’m looking at it correctly, S4 gets wired to the select button, which will allow on the fly switching when the select and a corresponding joystick direction is pressed (the joystick switches being wired to S5-S8). Switching leds, and acc on the fly makes sense, but I can’t see the huge benefit for on the fly switching for the PCB. On a wired setup switching to the other PCB is pointless, as you can’t use the stick on 2 systems at once. On a wireless setup, if you power down one system to play on another, the system automatically turns the joystick off. I just don’t see too many instances where you would want or need to switch the PCB on the fly. Then again I don’t understand a bunch of stuff and usually end up thinking the wrong way on a lot of this, so feel free to guide me in the right direction.
As for the 360 USB sync, I mainly only play at one of my friend’s house. The last stick I did, I synced the pad to his machine before I pulled the PCB out, so I never had to worry about it. That said, if a fix is in I’ll wire it up.
There’s going to be soooooooooooo much wiring to do on this one…
You need to think outside the box… just because the channels are labeled ps3 and 360 power doesn’t mean you can only power 360 and ps3 pcb with it
You need to consider your battery options… like i mentioned before, powering pcb through masterstrike works… recharging works but is 5-6x slower… not too huge of a deal if you’re using stock PS3 battery, but if you use a bigger one, you would need to use DPDT to switch power to PCBs instead of using masterstrike…
I’m thinking about a workaround for the battery charging now. Usually I let the battery charge overnight or longer, so a slow charge isn’t the end of the world. That said, I do have a pretty serious external lipo charger I use for my RC. I’m thinking about wiring up a charge jack to recharge from that. Ideally I’d love to just use the USB jack to recharge the battery, but I would have to figure out how to bypass the sixaxis when the external charger is connected. I’m sure I can run a switch somewhere, but right now I can’t quite figure it out in my head. Any ideas?
And you’re right. I didn’t consider running something else there for on the fly switching. Those don’t run any switched power to them, right? So in theory, if I ever went about doing the whole EL panel thing, could I use that to switch it on and off (it’s still powered by it’s own battery running thru the inverter, I know)?
Yes i was toying with the idea of adding this fast charger
The hookup to the battery would be in parallel (so the battery hookup would simply share BATT+ and BATT- on masterstrike with the battery) and the DC jack you would only plug in when PS3 PCB is off and usb is not plugged in (they can’t both recharge at the same time, because two rechargers active on the same circuit will cause your battery to become… explody)
What stopped me from doing this was that there is no nice barrel jack pass through port (like the neturik USB pass through) that I know of… because mine would have to look nice and be easy to install through 1.5" of wood where I cannot route the inside since the joystick is already built… and idealy i want USB because i dont want to worry about a DC adapter…
you mean use it to switch EL on and off, even though its on its own power source separate from masterstrike? its not really meant for that… it can provide power to an inverter, but there is a limit of 500-800ma per channel