This was with the new model MC pad? How exactly did you wire it up and have you tested it in-game?
yes its the late version with the orange pots for the analog sticks.
its 12am and I dont feel like taking apart my stick to take pics right now.
tomorrow I will and post em up
yes it has been tested in game
I hacked this ver. of the pad and the one plus about it is that you can remove the triggers and the pots and everything else works fine. I found this out because the little copper pads on the āfeetā of the pots ripped off, so I am triggerless but it was easy for a novice to wire up sans triggers.
o rly?
Im pretty sure you need to use resistors if you remove the pots otherwise the pcb thinks the triggers are pulled and will cause some undesired effects.
Orange eh? I think mine were black and white on top and brown on the back. Hmm.
Per Slagcoin:
vs.
Funny thing is that the shell on mine was white, not blackā¦ howeverā¦ all the markings on the pcb match up
Alright, I think I see the confusion here. I think youāre talking about the ālateā version and zombiecpt and myself are talking about the even more recent version.
I didnt know there was yet another late versionā¦ :\
I bought my pad recently and I think it is the āeven laterā model, which allowed me to skip adding resistors to the triggers after I ruined the copper contacts on the pots with no ill effect.
But are you using the triggers as buttons Girder?
No, like I said I accidentally tore off the copper contacts on the PCB where the pots were connected (I was a little too eager to rip the controller apart) but it still works OK without any resistors or triggers or pots. There is no strange behaviour.
Well, I just fucking melted off the pad for one of the wipers, so I guess Iām out of luck.
you guys are brutalā¦
you could always scrape down a trace and say a prayer or two that it works
Get thisā¦
I accidentally wired this side up ass-backwards. Looking at the picture, the transistorās elements are collector, base, emitter from left to right. So essentially, high is connected directly to the emitter rather than the collector. Strangely enough though, it appears to work perfectly. Am I going to fry my 360/PS3/computer if I use it this way? Should I do the same thing on the other side?
I followed Toodles/Zombie Cpt. 's Hex inverter method. I used 2 10K resisters + 74HC04 hex inverter and a prototype bread board.
Well, even though both triggers worked perfectly when I tested them on my PC, after wiring everything to the Cthulhu, they now register as always on. Everything is hotglued down and soldered to the board, so I feel as though the situation is a bit hopeless. If anyone has any good advice, itās more than welcome.
I cut ground connection between the Cthulhu and the 360 pad and now everything works fine. But how can this be? There isnāt any ground connection between the two yet on my PC, a wire run from a ground terminal connected to the terminals connecting to the triggers makes them work perfectly and theyāre not registering as always on. Is this dangerous?
Another update. Everything works fine when connected to PC via USB, but 360 will not recognize the controller.
do the lights flash when you connect it to the 360.
Some time ago I had a pad once which had two lights constantly on, worked fine in windows except triggers and thumbsticks didnāt work, on the 360 it didnāt register at all. Two lights constantly on whenever it was plugged in.
I actually just scrapped the project and severed the connections. I realized that the reason the triggers worked when I wasnāt using the 360 padās ground was that I was bypassing the pad altogether. Lol Iām an idiot. Iāll be looking for another 360 controller soon, preferably something a little more idiot friendly.