hehe, yeah, after a few hours of it, I kinda went into autopilot mode and by the time I realized what I was doing, it was too late. more practice, I suppose.
These are from RDC, check em outā¦ they should answer all your questions.
Wired Matrix Version (old)
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=581799
Wired āCommon Lineā Version (new)
With the official controller, your post is better off in either the padhacking thread or the official wired controller thread, but it slipped my mind to come back and reply. Set triggers to neutral means to turn the pots to where the trigger is unpressed, and then hopefully hot glue or super glue them in place, as they might move. You can also set the triggers to neutral by removing the pot and using a resistor.
Resistors are used when removing the pots, whether or not youāre hooking a button to them. The resistor forces the wiper to the unpressed voltage, in the case of the official pads thatās high. You use a resistor rather than just bridging the two points together, because if you do want to wire a button to it, without a resistor youāll create a dead short between ground and high, shorting out the controller.
According to xbox-scene, you can run a button connecting the wiper and the low on the official controller, and leave the pot in place, and the button will function. Iāve not personally tested this, as itās not hard to remove the pot and add a resistor, but with who the info came from, itās probably correct. You can also remove the pot, put a resistor between high and wiper, and run your button to ground and wiper.
Anyway, none of this info is particularly relevant to this thread, as the majority of the topic is about the madcatz which require an NPN transistor and two resistors per trigger, so everyone else can pretty much ignore itā¦ 
to use the triggers as button (like you would X, Y, A, B, etc), you should check out the transistor + 2 resistor design. there is a schematic on page 2 (I thinkā¦) that shows what to do with the resistors and transistor and how to connect them to the 3 points that each trigger has. youāll need 4 resistors and 2 NPN transistors to do both triggers.
setting triggers to neutral means you ādisableā them as far as the controller is concerned so they can never activate accidentally.
Actually heās looking for help with the official 360 controller, not the madcatz, so he doesnāt need the NPN transistors.
yeah im sorry about that
the last thing i wanted to do was hijack this thread
in order to keep infor out of this can you perhaps pm me any diagrams or pics you may have?
im kinda a noob to this and recently re-registered (since i cant remember my 2003 account)
thanks
are you fān blind man?!
go check out post #122
LOL ya i saw your post it just doesnt detail the triggers
ie solder here to here place wire here sorta thing
ill say it againā¦ are you blind?
This is taken directly from one of the links I gave you.
ā*NOTE: Actual soldering for the LT and RT spots is on the opposite side of the board. If youāre going to attach an extra button to duplicate one of the Triggers, you use LT1 and LT2, or RT1 and RT2 respectively. The reason LT3/RT3 is there and marked is ONLY for those making an Arcade stick or wishing to remove the Triggers from the board for whatever reason. If the Trigger IS removed a 10k Resistor MUST be installed from LT1 to LT 3 or RT1 to RT3. Any common variety 10k 1/4w will do just fine. This is to keep the controller āthinkingā that a Trigger is installed and āoffā, not pulled. Removing it without installing the 10k Resistor will cause it to act up in some cases, the new button either will not work or will not return to the āoffā posistion when released. Pressing the new button youāre installing between 1 and 2 will duplicate the āonā, pulled effect of the Trigger. Also note that you WILL loose the Analog function on the new Trigger button, it will either be on or off, no middle ground like you can achieve by pulling the Trigger partly in. This does not change the way the Trigger acts if itās left installed, it will still be Analog when you use it.ā -RDC
Go look at post #20 here http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=581799&st=15
It has a pic since reading doesnt seem to be your forte.
Those posts outline exactly what needs to be done.
Maybe this is something over your head? maybe notā¦ 
Yessir, itās one of the newer Mad Catz common ground pads, the kind that Kyle drew up a slagcoin-esque diagram for. As for the transistors I used, I used an NPN transistor. Iām not very well versed in electrical components or terminology, but the Emitter, Collector and Base on transistors of same types (that is, all NPNs or all PNPs) should be the same, no?
Iām sorry I donāt have a live picture, but this is what my wiring looks like for both triggers (since the ordering from left to right of the trigger holes should be the same, no?). If it also helps, Iām 100% positive Iāve got no accidental bridges from soldering or crossed wires with regard to the triggers. Hopefully this will suffice? Iāll do my best to try and get live pics up if itās really necessary.
Looks like you wired it wrong, hereās an quickie paint job for you.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ryx7hVH3pypCIVo71CDe_g?feat=directlink
I tested it last night and it works fine.
Thanks zombie, I was going to guess that but wasnāt sure about the traces even with the pics that kendrik posted. The darn traces went to the other side of the board.
Michael
Oh snap, my wiringās WAY off. Thanks a ton zombie cpt. Iāll give this a shot sometime and let you know how the results come out.
i was paying more attention to the newer style controller and not the mesh one (i assumed the mesh/ matrix one was something i didnt need to look at considering i have the newer one )
this isnt over my head im an electrician on helicopters and i have built hondas that can outrun most streetbikes i just prefer doing things right the first time rather than trial and errror of failed attempt after failed attempt
thanks for the info rep given
(i thought i already posted this)
PM sent
I apologize the to OP for going off track for a bit
Haha, I donāt care, youāre trying another to help another member so that cool. I derail other peoples thread all the time.
cool 
o god i have one of the newer madcatz pcbā¦and i am so lost im such a noob. can anyone make this dummy proof?
Can do, shoot me a PM
Michael
Quick question. I have the 2008 version and itās working great in my HRAP3. I left the pots in. I want to be able to use the triggers as buttons. Can I just wire the button to them without the transistor/ resister method since I left the pots attached?