Hmm if you wired the left bumper and the right trigger to the same button you could switch between HDR and SFIV without remapping any keys?
I have my stick wired up to two PCBs - this MadCatz PCB and a Dual Shock (H) PS1 pad. Iām finally done and it works great on the 360! However, a lot of the buttons donāt work (or behave strangely) when Iām plugged into a PS2. I tried connecting a diode to the 360 trigger signal line (with the cathode pointing towards the terminal strip, i.e. electricity flowing only away from the 360 PCB) for each trigger. This fixed the PS2ās woes. However, with this fix, the triggers stop working on the 360 - no action detected by the stick for those two buttons (everything else continues to work fine.) The power leads on each PCB are linked the way they ought to be. Is there a different (or extra) place I need to be wiring the diode to? Thanks as always for any help!
Test it out in a game to determine if the 360 triggers are always pressed, or never pressed. Weāll go from there.
Toodles is right, for whatever reason, the transistor I got are E C B, so the base pin is the right most one. Sorry for any confusion this might have caused.
With the diodes connected, the triggers are never pressed on the 360. Windows reports the Z-axis as being neutral at all times, regardless of inputs.
Im a little iffy on semi-conductors, so youāll have to forgive me if I give bad info; this part of things isnāt where I spend most of my time. Forgive the rant below; Iām effectively talking out loud to figure out whatās going on.
With the inverter transistor in place, and the button not pressed, current flows through the base pin to the emitter; this allow the current from the collector to also flow through to the emitter, which lowers the voltage so the pad sees a low voltage and thinks nothing is pressed. When the button is pressed, the current all goes flowing through the button to ground because itās easier than going through the transistor. No current going from base to emitter means the transistor is turned off, the current canāt flow from collector to emitter, so the current from the collector isnāt allowed to flow, moving the voltage up so the pad sees a high voltage.
The diode you installed is preventing the voltage at the base pin from dropping. At a guess, the forward voltage of the diode is greater than the base-emitter forward voltage; either the current has an easier time flowing just through the transistor than the diode, or possibly current is going through both. Either way, some current is going through the transistor, apparently enough to keep the transistor on and your trigger in neutral.
So, two ideas. Either find a diode with an uber low forward voltage, or switch to a chip inverter. If you want to try the diode route, first try Iād suggest is a 5817 diode.
Please understand, not totally my specialty; there is every possibility I donāt know what Iām talking about and the new diode wonāt work and youāll have to try the chip. Chip will do the job Iām 90% sure, but both methods are monetarily cheap, and trying the diode is an easy test before removing everything.
Wow, thanks for the break down, thatās helpful for understanding how all this works! The diodes I was using are rated at 1.6V forward voltage @ 1A. I had bought a second set of diodes, and I checked to see that they were rated at 0.9V forward voltage. I tried swapping in those lower-voltage diodes and they do the job on both systems. Thanks again for all your help!
I tried the transistor method last night and I couldnāt get it working. I am fairly sure I had it wired correctly.
Can someone post a pic of their PCB with both sides done in the picture?
Another problem I had was in a fit of rage I pulled off the wiper solder pad for one of the triggersā¦ Is there an alternate spot for this connection?
So this is my first stick and I had a question about using the LT/RT. Iām going to use the PCB from the Mad Catz Arcade Stick (that retro one) and I wanted to hook up the triggers so I could use it for other games as well. Iām just making sure that I need to do one of the schematics that have been drawn out to make them work right? Also, on slagcoinās PCB pictures, it says to set the triggers to neutral. Do I still need to do that and will it change the way they need to be hooked up then?
Thanks for the help.
Actually, I take this back. I bought a new one yesterday and the resistor/transistor circuit worked perfectly.
I followed some false information on this forum (I think in the padhacking thread) about retail packaging and which verison I had. Turns out that I had an older PCB that didnāt need this.
The differences in the PCBs are noticableāin the older version, you can see an obvious cross-hatching pattern on the board (like the pic on slagcoin) versus this new one where there is none. The POTS for the triggers were blueish-green on the old one and the new one they are blackā¦ I donāt know if these differences will work in all cases, just the 2 that I had.
I was wondering if you need to wire the triggers up like this on the MadCatz retro stick. Or how can I tell if I need to use this sort of setup or just wire them up normally?
No, you donāt need to do this on the Madcatz arcade stick. Just need to connect the wiper and voltage together with a 10k resistor.
Iāve toasted 2 controllers alreadyā¦ the wife is getting, shall we say āimpatientā with my little project that was supposed to save money instead of having to buy a stick.
Is there anywhere that I can buy a pre-wired xbox controller so that all I have to do is connect my own buttons?
I literally cannot wrap my head around all these schematics Iām seeing.
David.
Of course not, silly. Skullās arenāt made to be flexible.
I donāt mean to be a bother, but would you happen to have a simple schematic just so I can visually see it? Iām kind of new to all this and I think I understand what youāre saying but I just want to make sure.
I will try to take a picture of it for you when I get off from work, I donāt know, 8 hours from now.
Thanks, thatāll be great.
There is a diagram a page or two back plus some pictures. Here is another version of the same diagram. This canāt be more clear as it has full English labels. Keep in mind that you need to find out which side is high and which side is low on the pot. Check each one because they can be reversed from each other. Also look at the documentation on your transistor to know which side is the emitter and which side is the collector.
Michael
Hello to everyone.
Im really new to all this and not the best with electronics, but a big thanks to all of you on here as Ive got my trigger working first attempt. If it will help anyone I can post a picture of it as well. (BTW it is the madcatz (late version) pad)
Hello guys, I have the same problem, but I have the Earlier version of the Mad Catz Wired controller (the one that Zombie Cpt posted), but I canāt find how to solder the RT and Lt in order to use them in a Custom arcade Controller, I have been looking in the page, but really, I canāt find a clue. soā¦ any advice?
EDIT:
Well I used the picture that Zombie cpt Posted in the first post, for those who had the Mad Catz Earlier version, just the resistence is needed.
Thanks!