That explains why I was having problems with my latest hack. Thanks for the catch and corrected diagram. I’ll verify this tonight.
Michael
hi!
I’m from spain and I have a problem and is not meeting the transistors nte289.
I tried others but the trigger does nothing.
What the transistor can i use?
Thank you and sorry for my inglish.
Any transistor that is NPN will work. The nte289 should work, but is very large. A small transistor would be better.
I do not understand because it does not work.
take a picture to see:
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/5929/transhr0.th.jpg
thanks for all
Question on the diagram, the H W L are the pot connection spots (in that specific order) while looking at the trigger side of the controller?
Also I lost the foil underneath a couple of the solder blobs when the pots came off. I’ve fixed this other times by drilling through the PCB and running the wire through, any reason why that wouldn’t work here?
Here is a corrected schematic for you to try.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/8100/trantriggervq6.png
Toodles,
Thank you for drawing this up for us. I put it into practice last night and it worked perfectly. Here are two pictures of my little prototype board.
That also answered alot of my questions, thanks Kaytrim and Toodles.
Hey Guys. Just a quick note if either of you happen to be around. I’m not sure if this is just a labeling thing or if I’m reading it wrong. But it appears to me that Kaytrim and Toodles are rigging things up a little differently and I’m not sure which way is correct. For example, in Toodles schematic the low side of the pot connects to the emitter while in kaytrim’s pictures it appears that the low side of the pot connects to the collector. As for the high from the pot it connects to the base and the connector in toodles pic but connects to the base and emitter in kaytrim’s picture.
Actually, now that I write that up it appears that the two schematics are the same, just with the transistor flipped around so maybe I’m just reading one of the diagrams wrong (also it should be pretty easy for me to check both aligments). In any case thanks much for the detailed diagrams and picture the both of you.
It is just a trick of the images. The lower picture is the back side of the board so things are a mirror of the top image which is the top side of the board. Another thing that makes it confusing is that Toodle’s diagram has both the pot and transistor facing the same direction. My picture has the two in line with each other. This is why I labeled the photos so much.
Here is the circuit in simple terms. The emitter connects directly to the low side. The collector connects directly to the wiper. The base connects directly one side of the button. The other side of the button connects to ground or the low side. Then take two resistors from the high side, connect one to the base and the other to the collector.
Michael
Hello people
thanks for the schema.
now working properly.
Certainly when restored chulthu board unassembled in lizardlick?
Thanks again and greetings
I would expect about 7 days.
OK, with all the new posts I am somewhat lost now. Toodles, in your new diagram for martek22, you are connecting the emitter line of the NPN transistor to both the low pad on the pot AND the ground for the pushbutton. It seems neither zombie cpt nor Kaytrim are connecting anything to the pushbutton’s ground; they just connect the low pad for the pot to the emitter. What is it that is different here that (seemingly) requires different set-ups for different people? Am I misinterpreting something terribly? Thanks for all the info you’ve been posting!
My original description of the solution, post #4:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=5808783&postcount=4
Unless I’ve made a serious gaffe somewhere, I think that matched my MS Paint hackery above. Now, the first photo zombie cpt put up, well, frankly I have no clue how that one works; it doesn’t match my description (unless maybe the middle pin isn’t base? I dunno.) and martek22 used that picture as his guide and led him astray.
The reason you don’t see a second wire going to the buttons is because the other leg of the pushbutton on their sticks are already in the daisy chain of grounds just like any other common ground wiring job. The low voltage pad of the potentiometer is pretty much always ground, the same ground they wire to all of their sticks and buttons.
OK, that makes a lot more sense now, thanks! So, to make sure I am understanding right, in the case of zombie cpt and Kaytrim, since their pads are common ground pads, connecting the emitter pin to the low pot pad is in fact identical to connecting the emitter to the common ground, which is the correct way to implement your method (assuming that the ground for each of the pushbuttons are daisy-chained together.) Is that a correct understanding of this?
Further, would I be correct in assuming that instead of wiring the transistor specifically to the high and low pot pads for the trigger, one can instead wire the transistor to any other VCC / ground that is convenient? In other words, the only important/non-redundant patch for each trigger is the wiper? If so, that would be a very helpful for me, as I’ve destroyed the high pad for my Right Trigger, so instead I could just wire the resistors to the pad’s main +5V.
Well said. Correct on both counts.
Curious to why no one is wiring up the bumpers on this pad instead of the triggers, would I run in to the same issue?
You should be fine with just the bumpers. I have one of these pads missing the trigger pots and no resistors and it doesn’t register constant trigger pulls.
Thanks a lot Toodles, that’s incredibly helpful!
KOH: SF4 uses RT as your roundhouse button by default, so if you want your custom stick to match the default layout for SF4, you have to mess with the triggers.
Ah ok, well Im just throwing this pcb in my stick so I can play with my buddy on his 360, im getting the game for ps3 so Im not too worried about mapping.