of course, everyone does. just talked to him the other day.
People know him better these days as Tom Brady. 
Already on it.
Hey did you get my email
Hmm, the run button looks too close to the next button & how come the block button isn’t exactly in the middle?..For ergonomic reasons?!? Wish there was a way for me to try it out (or at least see it in person like in Gamestop or Fry’s) before I buy. Regardless, that’s awesome Madcatz made this option available in anticipation of MK9 coming out on April 19th. And yes, MK SHOULD be played w/a bat-top, LOL!
This looks pretty cool, but there’s one thing that perplexes me. How is one supposed to position their fingers with this button layout?
If you compare the layout to the SF4 TE layout, all of the buttons line up with the original buttons except the block button. I believe MadCatz did this for ease of installation. If you have ever looked inside of a TE, there are holes in the middle support plastic that line up with the buttons to allow for the male prongs on the buttons to poke through. When you install this panel you will probably have to bend the prongs on the block button for proper clearance. If they had gone with a more traditional MK layout it would have been even more conflicting with the internals of the TE.
Also, as far as I can tell from pictures, the block button is exactly in the middle, it is equidistant from HP and LK and equidistant from HK and LP, and the midline of the button falls on the exact midline between the top and bottom rows.
Thanks for the impressions Tim.
Here’s a shot of mine from the other day, I installed the panel on an ‘S’ TE.
If you really want the Happ-esque feel, I highly suggest you guys do what I did for my original mod/test of one.
[LIST=1]
[]Go to Lizard Lick Amusements and order a GT-C Round Restrictor Gate (compatible with Sanwa JLF sticks).
[]Get a Sanwa Bat Top & adapter (Works with Sanwa JLF+adapter or Sanwa JLW-no need for adapter; currently sold out at Lizard Lick x.x) or one of these awesome Toggleme Aluminum Bat Tops !
[/LIST]
So you can be stylin’ with this:
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/6893/madcatzmkpanelh02.png
I’m going to do a classic red/white/blue setup in the near future and pimp it out when I have time.
FYI, on the functionality/playability side. As a supporter of MK and someone who is used to playing on the traditional layout, I’d have to say this one is very much comfortable to the hand/ergonomics still. I tested this out a ton with both old school MK games (MK2 and UMK3) and newer ones (MK vs. DC and MK Deception [lol]). And it performed VERY well in both types of games. Granted this isn’t really meant for the newer ones (with tons of button requirements). But all in all, it was a great lean-in to an alternative control type.
For UMK3 using a standard Sanwa ball top/Sanwa buttons, I had no problems pulling off bnb combos or applying run pressure with some characters.
I’m sure the MK players know what I’m talking about… Playing on the old school layout for extended periods of time will help you develop a new/weird muscle (more evident when you first start) in your hand from playing/stretching your hand in ways it’s not used to. So if you’re used to that, adjusting to this will be NO PROBLEM.
Amen to that bro. I was very surprised how easy it was to adjust. This is SO perfect too for new players or players just used to the SF layouts.
Thanks for the tip about making it feel more old school. I will be doing that asap. And as soon as we get the template for the artwork, I am going with the UMK3 purple skeletons, logo with the red/blue punch/kick, white block and yellow run for a TRULY old school look too.
Thanks again Mark.
By the way… This is how I hold the stick/place my hands on the buttons… If anyone was wondering…
Opposed to this (which might be some people’s gut reaction if they’re used to the classic MK layout)…
for older MK games I always used my thumb even for low punch, that is the natural way the games are played
Already have the PDP TE reserved. Might pick this up as a second stick option if PDP doesn’t offer their TE as a singular purchase down the road. I gotta say that the way the buttons turn inward does not look comfortable for my right hand wrist during long gaming sessions. Also, $40 for this is way too much. $20 would’ve guaranteed a purchase but because of that price I’ll wait on PDP. They brought me old school American style the way I like it…although I will be throwing in an iL stick first thing though ; )
$20. Not gonna happen.
I don’t think anyone can do printed artwork/metal panel for $20. lol.
Looking forward to getting my MadCatz stick in the mail so I can put the “Combat” panel on!!! Thank you, MarkMan!
MarkMan do you think MK plays better with a circle gate as opposed to an octogate?
I think it’s preference. I personally do not like the octogate. I feel it makes the JLF less precise. However, the GT-C works well for me. But in the end I prefer square.
benjiedude: That’s the way I feel, every MK player I know played with thumb on the bottom with wrist straight and the “natural” curvature of your hand promotes it to the left. It is awkward having to twist your hand to the right and rearrange to make it more comfortable because it’s not natural.
PDP stick looks like the buttons are too far apart but the layout is more naturally suited…
Personally I think I would have done a Japanese/Korean model with the buttons curved to the left, but that’s just me, LOL
Hey Mark,
Care to share the cost per unit on these including, materials, labor and art? What’s the mark up? 
I know you’re not gonna give that but seriously man…ain’t no $30-$35 cost so Madcatz profit margin on these is a tad greedy. Still love what you guys have done for arcade stick nostalgia in the TE…I bought 4 of those including a SDCC PS3. PDP wins this round with MK though. Oh yeah, why no Marvel vs Capcom 3 pads or Happ iL/ sticks?
Rock on dude. Although I’m sure PDP worked directly with Netherealm to make sure the button layout is EXACTLY what it was in arcades back in the early 90’s…spaced out or not.
Well they could sell for whatever they wanted really because if we wanted to do the same thing it would cost us sooo much more. steel and laser cutting isnt the cheapest and the art they use is not cheap either. 20 bucks is never going to happen, if you wanted around that then you could spend about $25 with this guy.(currently awaiting my mk, astro, hitbox panels 
)
http://shoryuken.com/f177/project-llc-steel-panel-replacements-te-hrap-diy-custom-etc-uni-mounts-new-264080/
Same with the Il stick, he got one to fit into a TE but had to cut the Il himself. The ils are just big funky sticks that dont fit well within a slimmer stick like everyone likes, for them to take the time and make a bigger stick that would fit well would be alot of time for the very few people that want an il stick when it is simpler for the person that wants it to modify it or get it modified.
Yes they did, it’s Happ exact but the buttons are just spaced a little far from the stick, other than that it is an arcade replica with possible looser spring (more Ultimate than comp) but UMK3 and MK2 cabs has tighter springs anyway. Looser springs make it harder to hide the slower movement which is why a stiffer spring makes more sense.