Hey guys, I have an LS-40. I shortened the throw with a custom actuator, but sometimes I still don’t like how it feels. I noticed on Kowal’s site that the 56 and the 40 both have the same engage and throw, would there be any point to switching? I notice the switches are kind of set up differently but I don’t know if that really makes a big difference since both use levers, the lever sizes seem to make them engage and throw at the same amount of travel.
That chart you posted is outdated and doesn’t have exact measurements. I trust that Kowal’s stuff is correct, he’s using many tools now to detail all the measurements, which you can see in the methodology link under articles. Actually, looking at that chart it seems the LS-33 has the shortest engage of them all. Ah, the possibilities…
With a custom actuator (I made a slip cover for mine) you can shorten the throw as it has more plastic to hit the gate with.
Numbers are numbers there either right or wrong they don’t go out of date and I personally feel kowal is wrong in this case I have used both extensively and the LS-40 engages at a shorter angle than the Ls 56
Ok besides them both having short engages, regardless of the numbers, how do the sticks feel? One thing to note is the position of the microswitches, they’re more centered on the 33/55/56/58 vs the 40 which has them off center.
I’ve always been a huge fan and primary user of the LS-56. I ordered an ls-58 just now when i placed an order for a ps360+.
I look forward to seeing how this new stick handles.
To an ls-56?
I used to have an ls-40 in a tekken5 stick, I personally didn’t like it for fighting games. The shorter throw conflicted with my panic mashing. If your the ultra precise type it’d work well for you. These are just my opinions. I always liked the ls-40 in terms of a shump application.
So you’re saying you feel like the 40 has shorter throw than the 56? Damn, and I’ve even shortened the throw on my 40… Anyway, throw isn’t the point, that can always be modded. How about how the stick engages? I’ve wondered ever since I saw how different the microswitch layouts were between the two sticks how they’d feel.
The LS-40 isn’t easy to mod… There’s just not enough available space with its spring retainer for another spring WITHOUT the LS-40 becoming unbearably stiff.
I tried a mod a while back with two LS-32 springs and I found the LS-40 to be totally unusable that way and went back to one spring ASAP!
I like how the LS-40 engages – it’s like a softer LS-32 without gate bumping and some other nasty LS-32 surprises (that you can avoid once you play with the LS-32 a bit more), – BUT NguyenLm is right… The LS-40 requires a softer touch and is NOT recommended for people who MASH on fighting games. You have to be relaxed when playing with an LS-40…
I will say this, though. The LS-40 requires less muscle than the JLF or LS-32 for sure…
As far as modding an LS-40 to be “tighter,” the only way I could see this being practical is if you were to find/buy a spring that has higher built-in tension.
Paradise Arcade Shop IS selling custom springs with higher tension. One of their custom springs might make a decent LS-32 spring replacement for the LS-40.
That’s the only practical way I can think of to “mod” an LS-40 unless you want to build one of those Frankenstein joysticks like the LS-36… People have combined LS-32 parts with LS-40 parts and have developed the “LS-36” that way. Rather expensive proposition IMHO and I personally prefer to stay away from complicated, involved mods like that or the “ultimate JLF mod.” Too much work and expense IMHO!
I have the LS-40 myself, I’m just wondering how a 56 compares to it engage wise based on the microswitch layout. LS-40 being off center and LS-56 being centered.
I would not worry so much about the technical specs of the sticks. They have their different feels and that is what matters most. Here is my take if you are having decision making difficulty on a seimitsu stick.
I never used a LS-40 much. But I would describe it as a softer LS-56 at the time I used it (before the LS-58 came out). I can’t remember how the actual engage was though.
I am a big fan of the LS-56. I love the short engage and the quick snap back speed. I don’t think it gets tiring to use at all. I always felt I could do everything faster with it. The best way I could describe the LS-56 is that is snappy. VERY snappy. And that is what makes it so good.
The LS-58 ruins this for me. It is an LS-56 with a softer spring. It works, but not as well. I feel it takes away from the LS-56’s biggest strength. That snappiness.
Since I would describe the LS-40 in the same manner I would not consider using in my main stick with the LS-56 and LS-36 being an option.
I have used the LS-36 mod and I think it is great. It brings together many strengths in a joystick I love. It has a solid pivot, sort engage, stiff feel. If you take off the gate, you can get a circular motion that feels but smooth and snappy at the same time. Snappy because of the short engage. And smooth because LS-40 actuator/spacer slows movement near the limit of the throw instead of hitting the gate to a hard stop. I love the result and think it is the best Japanese sticks can offer.
A LS-36 mod does not have to as expensive as you think. Just buy all the separate parts you need to put it together instead of buying a full LS-32 and modding it. You will save yourself a little money and a lot of trouble trying to remove the C-ring from the LS-32 shaft.
Ultimately, I would only recommend either the LS-56 or the LS-36 mod for Japanese sticks. If you do not want to do the LS-36 mod, then try the LS-56. If you are still not satisfied with either the LS-40 or the LS-56, then a LS-32 or LS-58 probably won’t cut it either. Give the LS-36 mod a try.
It’s insane how easy it is to execute things I used to find incredibly hard with a JLF using the LS-56. Dashing and FADC issues are a thing of the past. Maybe I own a bum JLF but even dashing was an issue while using it and with the LS-56 I can dash/fadc every time on command. Not to mention all motions are quicker and easier too including simply holding back quicker to block/block mixups. I can go from one side to the other in quite a bit less time than a JLF.
I have no clue how the LS-56 compares to the 58 or the 40 but the 56 drastically changed how good I was almost overnight in fighting games in general. I really can’t say enough about it. And when I read the new Haybusa was supposed to be similar (by one account anyway) I become extremely interested since the one thing I dislike about the LS-56 is that it can be pretty squeaky and I did not read that about the Hayabusa stick.
This is pretty much what I’ve read everywhere. It’s not a horrid sound at all and you don’t even notice it while playing. It’s just sort of annoying is all.
Got my LS-58 today. Very nice and compact stick. One thing this stick has taught me is just how crappy Matsushita microswitches feel. Both this and my LS-40 just have this thing about the switches that they don’t feel good. Compared to Omron used in Sanwa or Cherry, or even Zippy, the Matsushita switches feel like I’m fighting with them. There is no smoothness to them in the slightest. I’ll be Cherry modding one of the two sticks soon. I think Cherry modding the 58 will be easier
The engage seems just about the same as the LS-40. The throw is pretty much the same as the LS-40 as well, if my quick and dirty measurement is a fairly accurate representation. Kowal’s measurements seems pretty correct in that aspect. The throw feels really big since I’m so used to playing on a modded LS-40 actuator that shortened the throw. Because of the shape of the actuator in the LS-58, I’m not really sure it will be possible to mod the throw unless I go the ghetto tape method, and I really don’t want to do that.
I also think the spring holder, because of being made of thinner plastic, probably wouldn’t hold out as long as a LS-40’s spring holder.
Not sure what to think. The two sticks un-modded don’t really feel all that different, though I guess the 58 has some size advantages.
Hi
LS32 and LS33 have identical throw = 7mm. however… when you play on LS32 you fell this stick is shorter than LS33. and is normal… why? this stick never get you ideal centre position he is too loose on neutral. Loose on neutral zone is something like 2mm. when you do f,f. feeling is shorter than on LS33 something like 5,5-6mm not 7mm. But when you alter direction (opposite) you will regain additional 1,5-2mm and you get 8-8,5 not 7mm. on LS33 centring position is ideal both direction is the same. pleyers do not understand this.
correct measurement is on two directions, not one! personal feeling on one direction is false.
the same thing is on LS40 and LS56
Ok following up. I shortened the throw on this stick like I did the LS-40. I have to say, it feels much smoother and more accurate. I love how it feels. Just about everything feels right. I think it feels much better than the LS-40. Might have to do with the over all design of the stick, but I have to say I think it comes down to the layout of the microswitches being more centered than off center, like the LS-40. At least, that’s one of the reasons. Just a great stick, I have a new favorite.
