so i picked up one of the cheap wwe sticks and put a ls-32-01 in it and loved the way it felt so i thought might as well through a ls-58 in my hrap 3 boy is this thing sensitive almost too sensitive, might be because i picked up a mk klassick stick this week as well (yep prob my fault) is there anyway to make this less sensitive?
Try changing or mixing springs. Let us know what works.
any one know if any other seimitsu sticks will fit in a standard hrap3 ? (in know wrong place to ask but cant find the hrap tread for the life of me)
The LS-56/58 is extremely sensitive, good for everything but fighters. Maybe octogonal gate helps to fix that a little, i mean for accidentally diagonal engagement.
I have an LS-56 and the octagonal plate fixes any issues you’d have with accidents. It’s, IMO, the best setup for a fighting game stick. The engage distance is quite a bit shorter than a JLF and your chances of screwing up an input are extremely low due to the gate. If you have not tried the setup yet I’d highly recommend it. Especially if you have issues consistently pulling off dashes which was one of my big issues with the JLF.
Yeah. I used to like the feeling of LS-56 with octogate but i found the diagonal too short while actuator is travelling the gate performing QCF/HCF motion. Sometimes i know i did right but hadouken, Kyo/Iori flames don’t come when i do a little faster.
I believe this is because the actuator is in the gate once the diagonal is engaged, so maybe if you perform the motion fast, the game don’t register it enough to pull off. On the square gate, both Seimitsus and JLF have a little more extra size from engagement till the gate for all directions including diagonal…i think this helps a lot for accuracy even doing motion a little faster. Maybe a more spaced octogate for 56/58 would be perfect.
Sorry for my poor english.
I just fitted one into my HRAP3 with an MSplate, it makes it sit there pretty low but it doesn’t bother me. The MSplate doesn’t mount the same as the original JLF in an HRAP3. Be sure to have some fat washers to put under the screws so they won’t hit the control panel as you screw the stick down. I think I should’ve gotten the Splate considering the mount height.
The LS58 took a little getting used to with that tiny throw and engage distance but I certainly like it all-round, definitely not just for shooters. It’s responsive, smooth as butter and yes it does squeak a little. Right now it’s my favorite but I haven’t tried an LS56.
-edit-
Holy crap this is exactly what i’ve been waiting for to play touhou with. Making microadjustments with the tip of my thumb is incredibly easy.
I just bought one of these to put in my SE stick, got it from FA so it came with the MS plate http://www.focusattack.com/seimitsu-ls-58-01-joystick-blue/
I plan to use it for FGs, mostly marvel. Was this a mistake? I liked the idea of less travel distance, as the stock SE stick moves about a inch over and also mine’s just broken.
After using my LS-56 for quite some time now with an octagonal gate with fighting games I am still 100% behind it. I borrowed another stick with a JLF in it just to see if I could go back to it and still be as fluid and accurate and it feels like I’m playing in mush. I do believe you really have to have an Octagon gate with the LS-56/58 though unlike the Sanwa JLF. If you want to be accurate, get an 8way (they are under 10 bucks I believe).
I personally think you made a great choice IF you were having issues with the wayyyyyy too long throw distance of a JLF. The only thing that I dislike about the stick is the fact that it can be a bit squeaky. I thought it was just mine but apparently others report the same thing. It’s only annoying during menu select screens though as you never notice it while playing.
Turn up your volume to a decent level to avoid squeaking noises. I dont notice unless i try to listen to it and I surely don’t feel the squeak. I like to add to Amerika’s comment that you can try an LS-32 if both the JLF and LS58 don’t suit you, but like he said try an octagonal gate first for a month or so. The LS58 is a worthy purchase at any rate.
It got here yesterday, I played quite a bit of mahvel. So far, I really like the stick, It’s not really that sensitive, just a bit closer than the JLF. I do hear a bit of squeaking noise though, no big deal. I’m just using the included squaregate.
The squeaking is due to the spring cover actually, pivot is smooth.
From what I read about the new Hori stick it sounds like they designed it to be an awful lot like the LS-56/58 with a much shorter throw and increased sensitivity compared to a JLF. It could be an interesting alternative if Hori allowed people to buy those parts individually.
No, no… You’re in the right place to ask a technical/hardware question and it’s been answered before.
Here’s the thing about HRAP 3/licensed HRAP variants. Hori never intended for anything but the JLF to be used in these joystick cabinets. It’s a coincidence that the LS-56-01 and LS-58-01 fit them so well because the control lever mount welded to the underside of the faceplate is non-universal – it was never intended to allow easy swap-out of the stock JLF control lever for LS-32-01, LS-40-01, LS-33, LS-55-01, etc.
You have three options on replacements…
a) Use the LS-56-01 or LS-58-01 with the “long rectangular” mounting plates (MS or P-40; you need to buy 2 more short, 4M Philips head screws to secure those plates to the welded mount) or use the stock VF mounting plate that comes with the LS-56-01… The VF-type mount screws securely with just the 2 stock mounting screws. I believe the LS-58-01 also has an optional VF-type mounting plate but most LS-58-01 are sold in the US with an MS-type mounting plate that works fine as is. You don’t need to buy a replacement VF-mounting plate for the LS-58-01… Much cheaper to just buy to more 4M screws than a replacement mounting plate for the LS-58-01. DO NOT USE THE SS-MOUNTING PLATE for the LS-58-01. The LS-58-01 has short shaft clearance with an SS-style mounting plate!
The LS-56/58 series has a longer shaft than the LS-32/40 series do and it sits an adequate shaft height above the faceplate.
b) For the LS-32/40’s you have two options to deal with the height clearance issue… IF you mount the LS-32/40 as is, stock condition HRAP 3, you’re limited to using the flat RE-Mounting Plate. Problem = your shaft height clearance will be short and you’ll have a “stubby” joystick.
To deal with the clearance issue of the LS-32/40’s you can
- buy a shaft extension to increase the height clearance above the faceplate… Shaft extensions are typical 12-15mm long and screw on just like a balltop handle. After you put on the extension, you can screw the balltop handle on top of it. Shaft extensions are somewhat difficult to remove after you put them and generally are not colored to match your shaft cover if you have one; most extensions are naked aluminum/chromed at best;
- buy a long replacement shaft. Technically this is only available for the LS-32 series but LS-32 and LS-40s can have components swapped and you can get a “Frankenstein” ‘LS-36’ type joystick if you want (or just stick to the LS-32/-01). This is the most expensive option. Replacement shafts cost $15-$30 depending on the type of metal used and whether they are drilled for LED’s or not;
However you extend the shaft clearance above the faceplate, your shaft will probably be long and not “regulation”. If you feel more comfortable with regulation clearance, you can use spacers (combination of washers and hex nuts) to adjust the height of the shaft above the faceplate.
*** This is a bit harder to accomplish than it sounds – it’s a balancing act – but it does work. ***
- remove the original HRAP 3 welded mount area. The hardest hardware solution to implement and it’s a permanent mod that will result in a non-stock condition joystick. This is something to think hard about — people still buy used HRAP 3’s but they generally like to buy unmodded joysticks. However, removing the original welded mount options up the faceplate for mounting every LS-series joystick short of the LS-64 under the faceplate.
You can remove the HRAP 3 welded mount the same way you would remove the American Tekken 5 or Arcana Heart 1/2 welded mounts. You have to drill through the welds in the mount and may have to drill out the “pegs” that line up the mount under the faceplate, too. This means a minimum of 4 drill holes in your faceplate which is not going to look nice but it’s the surest way to get the welded mount off. After drilling through the weld spots — IMPORTANT: DO THIS ON A WORKTABLE WITH THE FACEPLATE CLAMPED DOWN OR AT MINIMUM ON FLAT GROUND (NOT CONCRETE!) OUTSIDE AND ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR WHEN USING POWER TOOLS!!! —, you can wiggle the welded mount off. I found it stubborn to remove on the AH2 faceplate so I had to use a hammer and long flat-nose screwdriver to “jiggle” the weld mount off. The middle area of my AH2 faceplate was warped a bit as a result but the area outside the immediate shaft hole was fine and I was able to hammer the middle point fairly flat…
It’s an ugly mod that ruins the original sticker art (not a problem for me; I scanned the original AH2 artwork months ahead of time at hi-rez so I can always reprint it and reuse on the AH2 faceplate if I want) but now I’m able to use an LS-32-01 or LS-40-01 joystick with the RE-Mounting Plate on the AH2 faceplate. No futzing with shaft extensions or spacers required.
Just got my LS-58-01 from FA and I say this is what I was looking for coming from the JLF. Nice short throws. Wish there was a little more tension on the spring (probably should of got the 56-01) but it still feels better for me for short motions. Also picked up the Oct gate. Will do play with it some more to see if it stands the test of time. If I want to get a little more tension in the spring what do I just pick up another spring? I think I saw FA recommend a ls-55-01 spring
Ls-55 spring wont fit. The only will fit is the ls-56 one, but i recommend the stock ls-58 because the stifness of the ls-56 spring will cause tiredness on your hands after time.
My LS58 should be coming in tonight! Is there anything I need to do before installing it in my Hori HRAP V3?
nope as long as you have the rectangle plate like the ones from focus attack your good it mounts like a jlf the stick is the same height
I play with an LS-56 and my hand doesn’t get tired at all though. I much prefer the stiffer spring of the LS-56 and it by no means makes you tired to use it from my experience. However, we’re all different so just go with what you think you’ll like.
LS 58 installed. I like the shorter engage, however I wish the overall throw of the stick was stick shorter. Are there any restrictors out yet for the LS 58 to further shorten the throw? Octagon gate?