Okay, I’ve got money, time, and a serious attitude towards custom-building myself a stick. Don’t worry too much about the skills and such, I know how to solder decently (I’m not a pro, but I shouldn’t screw this up), and know my way around electronics. I’ve also figured out the optimal board (PS1).
Now, the question is, what parts should I be using? Button-wise I’ve only used convex buttons on a CVS2 machine with mixed concave/convex buttons (is this standard?) and liked how they felt. Stick-wise, I like a fairly tight stick, and I’m used to bat-tops, though a ball-top might actually fit my hand better. Not TOO stiff, mind you, but stiffer than the loose beat-up shit that’s usually in our local arcades.
I also definitely want to get some durable stuff. Should I really be concerned about wearing out a stick, or do they generally have the durability of other good quality game controllers (I stick to thrustmaster PC controllers, and I’ve never worn one out yet, I still have my old Firestorm pad)?
yeah, I make another stupid thread asking about stores for arcade sticks. Can you list a number of websites for this? And maybe added to the main post?
How trashy is the X-Arcade? I’m a bit of a noob, so maybe it’s good for practice? Honestly I don’t notice any lag. I just want to know 'cause it seems like Ebay has a lot of HRAP 2’s which I have heard are better. Just curious.
Really? Even for a beginner? Like I said, I’m so scrubby that I don’t notice anything wrong. Is it so bad that I should replace it right away or can I hang on to it a bit longer?
I can’t give you any technical justification why, but Ultimates aren’t typically thought of very highly. There is a CvS2 cab in an arcade near me with Ultimates, and boy, it just does bizzare things sometimes.
I’d stick to competitions. I have two at home that I love.
Also, I have zero arcade experience (grew up in a small town with no arcades) but would like to try switching to sticks. I was thinking of just snagging a HRAP2 and seeing how I feel about it, and going from there. Are there any major reasons just buying and trying would be a bad idea?
hey guys. The cord to my T5 stick is pretty much shot. My stick will work on and off and may cut off on me in the middle of a match. Right where you can see the cord come out of the stick is where the cord is torn open and the wires are exposed. Needless to say I need to replace it. I’m assuming in this case I’ll need to replace the cord and the entire PCB is that right? I haven’t modded my stick before but I do understand that if I replace the PCB I can use a regular PS2 pad PCB to replace it. But one of my questions is: Since the buttons in the T5 are soldered straight on to the PCB, is there a way I can get them off with out a desoldering gun? Are they cheap? And and another question is since I may need to get a new PCB I figured I would wire the buttons to it, but there are none since the buttons were simply wired to the first PCB. Where can I get them? I don’t have a soldering gun by the way so is imply using those wire grip thingys (the ones that you can attach to the end of a wire and then clip on to the prongs of the buttons) going to work just fine? If anyone understands or doesn’t understand, please let me know. Thank you in advance.
From what I am reading ponyboy as lower prices but lizard lick has faster shipping. However I havent delt with either of them yet as I am rather new to this forum so whether this is true or not I cant say.
Now for my question. I am looking to get a Sanwa stick and there are two of them I am looking at, the JLF-TP-8T and JLW-TM-8. Is there really any difference from these other than the size of the mounting plate and the JLF-TP-8T has that plug for the wires?
The reason I ask is because the JLW-TM-8 is around $10 cheaper and if I can save $10 just by getting a slightly bigger stick and wiring it myself then I will.
He has an excel spread sheet for you to order parts, that is if you know what parts you want by model number/name.
The only difference from what i can tell from playing with both:
JLF-TP-8T has a square gate that can be replaced by a GT-Y gate which is an octagon gate.
The JLF-TM has a square gate that can be replaced by a GT-O gate which is a circle one.
I’m prob not that experienced with the fell of sticks, but from what I can tell they feel pretty much the same. Most stick makers around here use the JLF-TM in their projects. My guess is the JLF-TM is more for fighters and the JLF-UM is more for shmups.
