Sparky Jr’s customization is accessible
a) Directly through the code if you are comfortable with that or want to do crazy custom stuff.
- based on requests we have added color modes to emulate 360, PS3 and Wii TvC colorization
360 mode
--------------------
**X** **Y**
**A** **B**
PS3 mode
--------------------
**[]** **/\**
**X** **O**
Wii TvC matched the TvC SE color of white and blue
b) if you want to use standard mode, use the GUI to create your combinations and upload.
what kind of light power in mcd do you guys use for your mods ?
I can get why arc eye is comfortable to use and stuff but they are pretty expensive (3 $) if you don’t need more than 1 color as opposed to a resistor + led which is around 0.8$
A LED+resistor setup won’t illuminate evenly the button rim. I use a simple LED configuration and I regret ArcEYE was inexistent at the time I built my cab.
Because you need at least 2 LEDs to correctly illuminate the button rim, that makes a lot of wiring if you plan to do it with 3 or 5 mm LEDs (i.e. “manually”). ArcEYE removes all that trouble and is also a lot cleaner solution (no messing with hot glue for fixing the LEDs, that’s what I did finally and … yuck).
yeah arc-eye looks like a good and cost effective solution IF you go RGB.
If you don’t, even 2 leds (and i am speaking 3 candela leds and their resistor) is just as clean and about half the price, not a big deal saving on one button but it kind of adds up when you do a whole stick with 10-15 lighting spots.
Has anyone ever tried to ‘paint’ the outer and inner shell ( on the part of the button that stays in the box) of a translucent button to make it reflexive and avoid light power loss.
sure, you have a point there. but… …lets break it down further past just price point.
typically, i look at value as
cost + time + skill = value
most addons that the community provides are to save on time and skill. yes the cost goes up. but ultimately your value is higher since you may lack at the other 2.
that is totally true , anyway my intent was never to discredit arc eye,
It is a great product, it is sold at a very customer friendly deal even considering just the price of the parts, let alone, soldering service, pcb printing service and ease of deployment.
Great product and very cheap if I were an online retailer I would consider adding them to my catalogue, seriously.
I want to do this light up led mod for my cabinet. I looked at the diagram and I think I understand it all. My question is if I can use a 5V ac dc converter instead of a battery. Something like this:
Question for Toodles or anyone who may know. I want to hook up a 9v battery to the FGWidget LED board. I have a project box that has a 9v battery compartment and am using the board as a night light wall decoration. Right now I am using 3 AA batteries to power it, but inside the battery holder box it is not secured and would be so much cleaner to use the 9v battery compartment with a sliding cover. Any ways to step down a 9v battery to 4.5v-5v?
A 7805 and a couple of capacitors would be the easiest. I tthink a straight google for ‘7805’ or ‘7805 voltage regulator’ would tell you everything you need to set one up.
Edit. Just picked up a 7805 Voltage regulator and some capacitors. and hooked it up like so after the DPDT
Switch which is connected to both ends of the battery.
So far nothing has burnt so it looks like it is working.
I knows this thread has gone WAY more advanced than the original post, but I have a question regarding soldering.
I got everything I need, but for the board it seems I made a bad choice: I picked up a universal board with unconnected points. I thought they would be easy to connect them simply by soldering them, and it goes fine for a few points, but after a while the molten solder “slips” between points.
Any tips on how to control that???
Damn, I should have got a pre-tracked universal board…
With every new problem I face (lack of tools, lack of practice, lack of spare time) I’m considering ordering some KNsert LED boards and a FGWidget board to control them.
quick question on the fgwidget… I was planning on LEDing the three 24mm buttons as well on my next project. is there a way i can incorporate the buttons with the cylon screen saver? I know i can add two of the three by using the PPP and KKK but how about the third?
Nah, the cylon mode doesn’t affect the three optional buttons, so wiring two of them as 4K and 4P like you describe is the only thing you can do to extend the rotation to those buttons. .
I’m sorry. This is 10 years old but I still need help. I’m not english native therefore I’ve hard times trying to understand this specific language.
I’m becoming insane because I can’t make my FGWidget work properly. Connecing the KNSert by VCC and GND direct to MC’s VCC and GND it works fine but it lights up until I disconnect the MC Board. But I want them to react by pushing the button so I need to use the FGWidget.
FG’s VCC/GND to MC’s VCC/GND, fine.
MC’s 1P to FG’s JAB_IN, fine.
Here comes the HELL to me: JAB_OUT where should be wired to? on the “Welcome Sheet” I read " JAB_OUT line will go to the LED installed in that button." my KNSERT has 4 holes. VCC, GND and other 2 of whom I ignore the purpose.
I hope you guys can dedicate 30second to my retardness. I’ve tried so hard but If I keep on going like this I’ll destroy everything. QQ
you understand that MC’s 1P wired to FG’s JAB_IN.
other buttons follow the same.
the JAB_OUT will go to the VCC on the KN insert in your pushbutton 1P
other buttons follow the same…
GRND on the KNinsert can be placed in any ground even the pushbutton’s ground.
thats it.
so when you push 1P the LED in 1P will also light up.
