Experience has shown me that it’d be a bad idea for me to do so. Best of luck in your project, but I can’t contribute to it.
no harm done.
should i check the pins on the chip??? desoldered and re soldered and same result…grrrrrrrrrrr
EDIT: after some sleep i woke up refreshed and saw my error…-facepalm- and epic fail on my part.
I like your last one. what if it was kind of like a flicker of colors on press and hold. like you press, and it is red, while you hold the colors change. you can do a nice color change and transition to the color or just a flat out switch. and continues to change while you hold the button. not sure on how you want to do this. by having a programmed color changing system or using a sudo random color selector. not sure on effect on release though. i will ponder on that.
I am working on how to get the turbo leds to light up on button press but i want sort of a messed up system. Like the light punch and kick led will always light up on a button press but the stronger the attack button the leds light up from left to right. will look sort of like a equalizer or something…just for flash but know it will get annoying or stale quickly though lol
How about if you move the joystick it changes the colors of the button presses… haha that would be interesting.
Master Strike can do that. 
<press hold button> move stick <buttons change color>? i did not know that :rock:
Yup. Mine is set to toggle from green, to blue, to cyan, to off if I hold select + right.
More screen saver modes.
I’d like to see a screen saver where eveything lights up crazy and random at strobe speed.
A mode that just moves left to right, then right to left. For example once cycle. Jab+Short > Strong+Forward>Fierce+Roundhouse>4P+4K> and then backwards in the opposite order.
A sine wave Cyclon. Jab > Short > Forward > Strong > Fierce > Roundhouse > 4k >4P Repeat.
Opposite staggered mode: Jab+Foward+Fiece+4K > Short+Strong+Roundhouse+4P
A screen saver mode that cycles through all the screen saver modes every 5 seconds
Let’s see lots of trig functions and their hyperbolic counterparts! Hyperbolic sine (which would look a lot like inverse tangent in this case) (1K, 2K, 3P, 4P) and then negative. Hyperbolic cosine (1P, 2K, 3K, 4P) and then negative.
Okay, just the math geek in me. Maybe in seriousness, an RGB LightsOut? One press is green, two presses is Yellow, three is Red, four is out? For advanced puzzle solvers! Or just kiddos with a lucky uncle rtdzign to make them little fun boxes to play with.
I want to say something with Splash. How it currently fades brightness. It would fade color mixes. But I dunno how to describe it. Like, maybe have a baseline color, say Blue, and then fading in green until it mixes to a full cyan? Or same logic with Fade on release?
Just brainspewing. A lot of the ones I keep thinking of involve two colors, so some way of setting up what those two colors should be should be added to the menu and saved in eeprom.
heartbeat: main bright primary color traveling left to right on the bottom, trailing faded versions like phosphor trails, occasional quick pulse up of the secondary color which stays put and fades to off.
EQ: Save the delays and button strengths of the two most recent presses. Using the same timing, secondary and primary colors from left to right to the matching button of the last punch button hit and retract, followed by the same with the last kick button hit. So if fierce was pressed, followed one second later by 4K being pressed, the top line would extend to fierce and fade out, followed by the bottom line to 4k and fade out one second later, repeat. If green and red colors were used, it’d look like an old equalizer displaying beats.
Game matching colors: So if in VF game matching mode, Short would light up blue (Guard), jab would light up green (punch) and strong would light up red/pink (kick). Ditto for Neogeo colors. Blazblu: red/pink on Short, blue (or even three dif shades of blue) for 1P-3P. Guilty gear to match this:
It’d probably be easier to just just have a ‘set the color of each button’ mode.
Have a primary color cursor that move Chu Chu Rocket style from button to button. Hitting a button turns it to the secondary color to setup a wall the Chu will run into (and turn right). Pressing the Chu button will force it to move immediately, and kill the chu if there is no place to run to, resetting the walls and starting the Chu on the other end of the buttons. (Maximum path: wall at strong and 4K, or mirrored versions of same)
Conway’s game of life- not very exciting on a 2x4 world.
8(or 6 if in 6 button mode) colors randomly assigned to each button. Press two neighboring buttons simultaneously to switch, continue until full ROYGBPWK pattern and reset
abstract pacman display. Red dot chasing and gaining on yellow dot, yellow dot reach the white dot, red dot turns blue and flees chasing yellow.
only so much can be done with a 2x4 display, but I’m loving the ideas.
downhill skiing: have a color to represent the player that can be on jab or short, and hitting the one he’s not on moves him there, so he can dodge the increasing fast trees coming his way. If he collides, everything goes red for a bit for blood before restarting.
X’s from Tempest: So if primary was red and secondary was green, jab would be red, short would be green. Red stays put for a bit, green moves to strong. Red then moves to forward and swings up to fierce and stays. Green swings to roundhouse then 4P. red swings to 4K. green swings to roundhouse, red swings to fierce and then to forward…mimicing the X’s from tempest that swing end over end as they move across channels.
I’m prolly gonna need more program space on this one 
Conway’s game of life would be so epic. I might just buy a bunch of these and put them behind plexiglass:
Conway’s Game of Life Kit [v1.3] ID: 89 - $17.50 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits
Make all three punches/kicks be a reset. That way you can FADC into ultra game of life.
On the topic of programmable profiles
[media=youtube]nQl8xksBK5o[/media]
finished somewhat my chun li stick but plan to see what i can program for the led in the stick or see what the sparky jr can do with stick.
[media=youtube]20FsGjfJU28[/media]
Love the xbox motif!
i am guilty of it myself on my NON light up stick
yeah i figured i stay with the theme since the background is already blue. the hard part is to program the led balltop to get power when in screensaver mode with the fgwidget board, then when i try with the sparky jr with my se stick. dunno if i will keep and use my chun li stick or sell it…moving soon so some of my stuff has to go in order to get some money during my move lol to buy stuff for the new home that i will need.
Ripple counters 74HC4017 - 4017 or binary ripple counters 7490HC - 7493HC coupled with “AND” gates can do that.
If the circuit becomes too large it is better and more simple to use a PIC instead.
connect your button ends on PCB side to clock input of the 74HC4017, through a “-1” inverter on a common ground setup to have color change on press (through nothing to have color change on release).
Output 0 connected to nothing,
Output 1 connects to a green diode + resistor then to ground
Output 2 connects to a yellow diode + resistor then to ground
Output 3 connects to a red diode + resistor then to ground
Output 4 connects to reset input of the 74HC4017
If you replace the diodes by transistor relays you can use this setup to activate or shutdown a full diode setup.
Say you are building a stick with 6 buttons and each button has 3 colors diodes 1 green 1 red 1 blue.
you can use a binary counter to cycle through any of the 16 combinations of these 3 colors sets of lights for your light on activation panel.
To realise this on a common ground set up you need 1 hex inverters, 1 ripple counter , 18 diodes, 18 resistors, 9 transistors.
you can do
By Connecting the 4 directions of the stick to the “clock input” of the ripple counter of the above described device through a 4 input “NOR” gate.
Again for anything too fancy it is less costly but more importantly faster to programm a PIC.
In fact it would even be more effective to have a single PIC serve as button inputs collector, multiplexer for the PCB, multiplexer for the diodes activation, light pattern commander. It is very powerfull, cost efficient and easier to solder and can be reprogrammed without unsoldering everything.
Depending on how complex the light activation system should be you multiplex the outputs and use one or 2 demultiplexer to extend it’s “fanning out” possibilities or not, you can also save input slots by connecting 6 buttons through a binary leveled tension divider on an analogic input.
I’m still pretty confused, but I’ll introduce what I’m trying to do basically.
a) with all the tools currently available, what would be the simplest way to get light on activation support for a stick with the ability to turn it off in terms of the amount of actual work needed? I’m leaning toward getting KNserts since I’ll be using KN buttons and I’d prefer to avoid any drilling, but are there other options I should be considering?
b) If I want lights to activate on joystick movement as well, how easy/hard is that to coordinate with whatever button options are available?
c) I plan to use one of the ps3/360 PCBs for this build (whichever one I can get my hands on in short order), and I’m wondering if there is any possible way to have a controller detect which system the stick is connected to? The idea I have is to have either a blue or green LED on my home button depending on which mode it’s in, and I’m wondering if that’s actually doable or not.
Thanks, and again, i don’t mean to ask questions that have always been answered. It’s just easy to get lost in all this technobabble and new products introduced to cloud the issue.
a) If by ‘turn it off’ you mean turn off the lights entirely so they dont come on during play, that’s entirely up to the the electronics that control the LEDs. The FGW LED controller has that functionality; I dont know if the Sparky does. The KNserts are just the LEDs that go into the buttons. There is no electronics on them to control when they light up or not. Using KNserts for white LEDs or Arc-eyes for RGB is definitely the way to go in my opinion for installing the LEDs in the buttons, better than installing bare LEDs, but thats only part of the puzzle. The other part is the electronics that control when and how the LEDs behave.
b) That’s up to the electronics controlling the LEDs, not the LEDs themselves. FGW LED Controller does it for you, dont know if Sparky does. There’s also info somewhere in the beginning of this thread for using a NAND gate to control an LED with the stick.
c) It is doable using an Imp or a Chimp, but would require additional custom electronics, specifically a single inverter chip (or three available NOT gates from an existing inverter chip). Maybe just use a ChimpSMD which has a green and red led on the board already to show which mode its in?