i already sent Chad a email. i was about to put it together and that piece was missing so i sent the email and raised the question. i built my other ones but left this one untouched.But either no big. its a bit much to ask you or chad for a replacement and dunno lol thanks for the link. i will see what i can do
i’m wondering with my config if i can use the (now unused) DP/LS/RS switch to enable/disable the LEDs. It would be cool to have them on the same lockout switch (no lights = no upper panel function) but i doubt that would work though.
My idea is to reroute vcc for all the leds (including the ring of light ones since they are shared as well) through the switch, i’m just wondering if the controller will function properly if there isn’t a completed circuit there.
Depends. What else are you using that board for? You using the guide button, turbo button, or player number led’s?
Everything is in use except the turbo button and the LS/DP/RS switch.
Err, not an easy way. You’d have to cut traces around the slider to even have a chance, and there’s a ton of vias in that area connecting the ground place on both sides.
Each led is pulling right around 1mA. Don’t worry about disabling it, because even the full 8mA if all LEDs are on is absolutely nothing to the console. I wouldn’t sweat it.
that’s what i thought actually 
i guess i’ll just leave it and replace the last LED when i get a chance.
edit took it off the PS3 stick (not like i use turbo anyways), i’ll replace that one when i get a chance.
[media=youtube]slM2YVlK3jo[/media]
to light up the led in the joystick and to only have the light on when the button leds are on, i only need to connect a wire to the stick out on the widget board since i do not want anything special to happen when i move the stick. i shouldnt need to wire up to the up, down, left, right on the terminals will i?
Errr…You can put the LED wired to SHO_OUT or any other BUTTON_OUT to the stick, sure.
But you wont find one the looks and works better than wiring it up to STICK_OUT and wiring the directions.
some thing has been bugging me about the mod in the OP. Thanks to toodles my LED mod was extremely easy, thanks in part to the fact that there is a common anode. My question is why not just wire up the mod in the OP the same way? Why use the hex inverter?
am i wrong or is this how my mod is connected currently? I would have thought that the voltage coming from the circuit involving the LED and resistors would affect the signal but it doesn’t. Why is this not feasible for any PCB?
Thank you sir. just out of curiosity thats all. something
- It is correct.
- It’s only feasible on common ground PCB, and works fine with most of those. The thing is, the reason I’ve been trying to stress that simple light-up led mods use an inverter, is that it isn’t very ‘hands off’. Those circles that represent the signal lines from the actual controller pcb? The connection to the diode and resistor can affect how the signal line reads if the button is pressed. Most of the time, it doesn’t, and just like you see, it works perfect. (although I am curious about if it had been a blue or white LED) but it also could affect how the controller detects button presses. Better safe than sorry, and inverter chips only cost like 50 cents.
Ok i understand that. It would probably be easier to determine if we knew exactly where the button signals go in the circuit but it’s better not to risk it.
edit
also noticed I’m using the symbol for capacitors as switches. Somewhere my 1st year prof is crying lol
Hi guys!
I have a couple of questions
Does anyone could help me? please.
- Can anyone tell me how to connect the LED FGWidget Controller Kit to the MC Cthulhu?
- I also would like to know how to install a few LEDs to Seimitsu PS-14-KN 30mm clear pushbutton, which will be connected to the LED Controller FGWidget
I have plan to use 11 super-bright LEDs in red or blue
Here are the technical data
Blue LEDs
Forward Current: 20 mA
Power Dissipation: 60-75 mW
Operating Temperature range: -40°?70° °C
Luminous Intensity: 8000 mCD
Angle and half intensity: 30° °deg
Forward Voltage: 3.2-3.4 V
Wavelenght: 480-490 nm
Red LEDs
Forward Current: 20 mA
Power Dissipation: 35-42 mW
Operating Temperature range: -40°?70° °C
Luminous Intensity: 2000 mCD
Angle and half intensity: 30° °deg
Forward Voltage: 1.9-2.1 V
Wavelenght: 640-650 nm
For the time and quick reply thanks.
pg 27 post #657 and #674
Have you read the welcome sheet that comes with the FGW LED controler? It would help if you mentioned what part you didn’t understand from it, because it should give a good overview of how to hook it up.
Awesome board that FGWidget. Having almost never soldered anything before I managed to get it up and running with 8 buttons in all its seizure-inducing glory! Sadly, the buttons I chose are too big for the case I was trying to cram them in and I started cracking the plexi lol.
Oh well. Had to take it out, but I’ll definitely be using it again once I get a decent case. (builders seem to be so busy, sometimes I don’t think I ever will lol)
Hello! Toodles.
First of all I would ask a little patience, the reason for my doubts is because my English is at a basic level, so it is difficult for me to understand the language.
Changing the subject, I’ve read several times the data sheet FGWidget LED Controller, Correct me if am wrong as I understand, according to the diagrams of both PCBs, I have to wire as follows:
-
For power supply: from the hole marked on the FGWidget LED Controller as “VCC” to the hole indicated in the MC Cthlhu as “A” as well as the hole marked “GND” to the hole designated “B”.
So come to me another question, Is there another way to do it easily without having to weld? -
To control and power supply for LEDs: How the hell … I do it? a picture would help …
However, I will try to make an extra effort, I hope to explain properly:
from the designated holes in the FGWidget LED Controller as “XX”-IN to the holes marked in the MC Cthlhu as “1P” from there to a pin of the microswitch from there connect the anode of the LED on the other hand, the cathode of the LED was connected to the other pin microswitch which wires to the holes marked “XX”-OUT.
Am I correct?
Thanks for your reply
- No. VCC to VCC, GND to GND. Use the screw terminals. No soldering, no welding.
- Use wire to connect 1P on MC to JAB_IN on FGWidget LED Controller. One microswitch led goes to Ground. Other microswitch leg goes to ‘JAB_IN’ or ‘1P’. It doesn’t matter which one because they are connected by wire. LED anode leg to ‘JAB_OUT’. LED cathode leg to Ground.
Repeat for each button.
Just hook up VCC of FGWidget LED Controller to VCC Terminal of Multi-Console Cthulhu; no soldering needed.
Just hook up Ground of FGWidget LED Controller to Ground Terminal of Multi-Console Cthulhu; no soldering needed.
To wire up the FGWidget with the Buttons:
Signal of your Button will go to _IN of FGWidget LED Controller.
Anode of LED will go to _OUT of FGWidget of LED Controller.
Cathode of LED will to go Ground.
I’m lookin to mod my stick with the FGWidget…but I need to change my pushbuttons to ones that will be able to utilize the LEDS so I need transparent ones, on lizardlick I see they have the pushbutton siemitsus but when I add them to cart they’re sold out…anyone know if the “screw in” siemitsu buttons would work for a ps3 TE? would they fit ?