Light-up on activation button mod tutorial

Yes.

All Japanese 30mm fit.
The holes are made for that.

Sanwa Screw-in will have problem for Light Kick Button.
The Nut is too thick, so will file to make fit.

Seimitsu Screw-in no problem.
But install opposite of other Buttons for Light Kick.
Put Nut under Mounting Bracket, then screw Button in.
Normally do is to put Button in, the screw Nut on to secure.

picture for 1 button

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww301/rtdzign/Misc/FGDwidget1.jpg

Also, since I’m dual modding my ps3 TE stick, and using the FGwidget, JDM, can I just connect the VCC to it from the xbox 360 fightpad im putting in and also, what kind of LEDS should I use, what potency is recommended to use/and where would I gettum…that is basicaly my last question, I’m ready to go, and I appreciate all the help man!

Yes.

F-awesome, I got an account so lets see if I can upload this stuff without too much issue. I’ll have a more comprehensive showing later, but…

KNsert inside a purple PS-14-KN

My ‘great’ job at dremmeling a hole thru the button, with two wires for the KNsert

Just the KNserts in my prototype joystick

[media=youtube]kvuYfsW9fVU"[/media]
once its uploaded, a link to a youtube clip of the KNserts working nekkid

Prototype setup…lessoned learned, the plastic snap-ins from a solid look GREAT, but don’t let enough light thru. In a future install, I might actuall take a dremmel to it and try again, but since this is the stick I practice on also - I need it to function well

The original wiring…uhm yeah…about that…

So I went andbought a second board to resolder (too lazy to desolder the old board atm, I’ll do that for my next project instead). I decided that instead of having a ‘ba-jillion’ wires connecting my TE to my top, I’d rather cut it down…

Took the lid from a Ledo’s pizza box…?what?..it was laying there after I ate…I’m jussayin IT WORKED

Cut it down in size…actually I did this twice to get the thickness right

I then covered it in electric tape…(1) the black looked better and not as cheap…and (2) I just felt better with the electric tape there. You won’t see if here as I couldn’t find my damn glue gun, but (I just rebought my third sigh) I will glue that board to the TE top thru the buttons and around the rim. I would like to screw threw the board as well, but at the time I just didn’t have the right materials on me even though I thought I did.

Now peep the wiring. I took the lead to the ‘positive’ (what I deemed positive heh) side of the buttons, and actually soldered to the bottom of the peg, enough to stick, but not so much that the stick disconnects wouldn’t fit (I got all but two perfect). I also have provisions for joystick lighting already wired up, even though I decided against it (speaking of which I should yank out my drilled shaft for this stick and use it on another…it was friggin 20 bucks.

Hardwired to my case…I’d like to in the future - turn the connection to the power/GND - into a quick connect so I can truly take it apart, but I have a good ‘foot’ of space when I remove the top right now. As well, I no longer have a rats nest from all the friggin slack. I’d HIGHLY recommend doing TE installs something like this to cut down on the slack wires.

My stick currently, I painted the white inserts to the PS-14-KNs black to get a similar effect as the all blacks I swiped from some screw ins. I just ordered some vinyl coverds that I’m going to pair with them to make it ‘cooler’

[media=youtube]I90YjMlFT50"][COLOR=#0033cc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I90YjMlFT50[/COLOR[/media]

And here is the video of it ‘working’…well when I finish uploading to youtube…I hope I don’t get caught (at work right now as my computer is currently dead at home thanx to a harddrive crash)

f yo uahve any questions, let me know. I’ve got more photos…including my f-awesome solder job.

  • :bluu:

JDM, so I’m connecting the VCC from hacked pad to widget and also to the IMP board from the same fightpad…it’s OK to do that? , Also will the lights always work even if it’s in PS3 pcb mode?, or do I have to connect the vcc on the widget to both the ps3 pcb as well as the xbox pcb for leds to always be workin’

In a Dual Mod, VCC of both PCB will be connected to each other.
To get VCC go to Imp, just choose from which PCB you want, because they already connect.

I assume the IMP accomplishes this…so I can just run the VCC from the xbox controller to the VCC on the imp and that connects the playstation one as well? Or will both VCC’s from both pcb’s have to be wired to the IMP’s VCC? … Also what voltage LED’s should be used for best lighting with the Widget board and a ps3 TE stick pcb dualed with xbox fightpad pcb … any ideas?

In a Dual Mod, you connect VCC of both PCB together already.
So why would be doing connect VCC from both PCB to the Imp?
Choose from which PCB you want, because the already connected.

Your supplied power is 5V.
Get LED that use close to 5V.

Great pictures and pretty stick. You happy with it all?

with your stuff yeah, I order the chImp SMD to install after my cchImp install in a friends stick went so well, and it apparently arrived yesterday…of course it wasn’t there shakes fist in the air while cursing USPS
but there are still a couple things I’m not happy about/want to change up…

I hate the friggin screws, I want to find a way to get the plexi on there with NO screws…
I’m changing out the balltop…again…for the third time…
I’m adding artwork to the bottom to go with my aluminum feet…
I’m adding an LED ‘loop’ to the joystick…can’t explain it well, but it will let the stick light up like the buttons, but in the direction you press…
I’m removing the white sides and building my own custom sides…
I want to turn the wires coming from the TE itself into a ribbon cable in the long run…I hate having wires coming from the buttons to the board itself…
I’m tempted to add Wii support, but I havne’t played my copy of TvC since like a month after the game came out…

But I kinda need to throw as much stuff into my stick as possible since I’m getting serious about my “electronic Entertainment Company” again…

And I openly admit it, I’m like one of those chicks that gets addicted to plastic surgery…only its modding sticks…I’m sorta on the market to buy a couple more TEs and PCBs…and I don’t even play like that.

  • :bluu:

If I was to modify anything of yours…
-KNSerts…nothing to really change, I mean they are losse when you first put them in - like if you peep the first video, they easily change height, but once you snap the button on…pssh they are hte perfect brightness and don’t move. White LEDs are def the way to go as the purple is PERFECT. the movies and pics don’t show it well, but you get the most out of them using a colored PS-14-KN as opposed to a colored LED…for one you get the true color you want, two the brightness is spot on.

-FGWidget, install can’t be simpler short of solderless to the board/tie in to disconnect. It took me a long time because I was being PERFECT about my soldering

and I was ‘redoing’ my layout while watching Nerds II and Godzilla verse Destroyer. The menu for the FGWidget sounded weird, but as soon as I tried it the first time - it was easy as hell to figure out. The actual solder work isn’t bad at all, I’d usually run about 1 CM of wire thru the hole, then place the solder about 1/2 way down, then heat the top of the wire to melt the solder down. There are a couple things I think would work well with the FGWidget which I’ve mentioned before - if someone spent the time they could fabricate a prewired setup for the TE. Measure out hte distance and use the matching colors - find some type of ‘ring’ that would go over the prong of the switch so you could just put hte loop around it, and you’ve got a pre-done term to an already soldered baord. If you wanted to take it further, you/someone could pre-drill the switches for seimitsus, and then it couldn’t be easier. But thats all second hand stuff that someone like Gunmowned (sorry dunno real handle) could do.

It would be nice if there were a little more wiht regards to outputs/inputs for the FGWidget…but as is thats just wishful thinking.

  • :bluu:

If I use 3.3V LEDs like tingboy used in the first post, coupled with the widget board, do you think those would provide enuf light? (Using them on a dual mod PS3 TE fightstick)

So that is how KNserts look.
I’ve been wanting to see them.

Very cool.

Toodles, is some I can buy?

No problem.

Awesome mod. +1 on when will the knserts be available.

We’re shooting to have them listed at LizardLick by the weekend.

I would like to thank all the guys, for the time taken to help me with my doubts

THANKS,
ALL ARE GREAT!

Are the production ones the same as prototype v1.1?

Same outside and inside dimensions as the 1.1 you see above, same placement of the VCC and GND holes, same LED placement, and same LEDs.

There are a few differences though.

  1. The PCB itself is much thinner.
  2. There is a spot to put in a resistor if needed. If you are using an FGW LED Controller, dont sweat it. If you’re using something else and want an LED on the KNsert, there is a spot for either a 1/8W through hole resistor, or a 0805 surface mount resistor. If you’re doing that, there’s a trace on the back that you have to cut with an Xacto. Its marked with a ‘Cut ->’ and should be obvious.
  3. The boards, are, uh, yellow. I made a mistake when I had those made and selected the wrong color soldermask. Not like screaming nuclear pee yellow, but rather jaundiced. Boards work great and the color doesn’t have any affect once they’re installed. Just when they’re in your hand before installing you kinda want to give them a shot of penicillin. Just remember, they still do that same awesome glow you see in Unreally’s video.

Okay, cool.
Laugh.