anyone know what the ratings are for the mini LEDs that are soldered onto PCBs? I was planning to use the turbo lights from my SE as lights that activate when pressed (they aren’t being used right now)
I dont understand if you were planning to replace the existing red led’s or just run wires from the ribbon to whatever you’re using to control them or what?
EDIT: OH, ok, sorry, reading comprehension failure. You didn’t mention if you’re using a 360 or PS3 TE, so this all assumes a 360 version.
The red turbo LEDs are already setup with common anode, so its easy. Make sure power is going to the USBVCC point on the one ribbon cable going to the LED board. Locate the eight ribbon wires labelled D(somethingsomething). Connect a 2.7k ohm resistor to each one, and connect the other leg of the resistor to the matching signal line going to your buttons. That’s it. Pressing the button connects the signal and resistor leg to ground, completing the circuit for the current to go through the LED. 2.7k ohm is the value of resistor used on the 360 main board, so you’re set.
I see what the PCB does. It’s going to mount onto the bottom of the existing wire harnesses. THAT’S why there’s a huge line of grounds. Because that’s how the madcatz is wired, all grounds on the bottom. That’s what threw me was all the grounds. But now I see it.
So, possibly solderless LED mods a la screw terminals/ribbon connectors to KNserts? Nice.
No, wait. I very well could be wrong. There’s too many grounds. Hrm… Keep thinking.
Perfect, thanks 
One thing though, the main PCB was bad so i did have to change some stuff in the panel (the stick is being powered by a gamestop 360 controller now)
I changed the guide button leds to go to the panel instead of on the PCB, so would that be a problem? I figure the easy thing to do is to cut the common power between the guide leds and the turbo leds though.
Both the guide LEDs and the turbo LEDs are both common anode; they all have one leg connected to the power (USBVCC) and the other leg going to a ribbon cable (the guide leds going through 1k ohm resistors, the turbo leds just straight through with no resistor), so as long as you have the current guide LEDs all setup with power going to the USBVCC point, and the four other ends marked on the ribbon as D3-D6 going to spots around the guide on your pad, you’re already set. Add resistors to the ribbons for the eight LEDs and connect them to the signal lines for the matching button.
But, if your gamestop pad required trigger inversion, the LEDs for the triggers may be backwards. I can’t help you with that without detailed information about how the stick is setup.
yup the triggers are inverted, I followed the steps in the OP of this thread: http://shoryuken.com/f177/how-padhack-08-09-madcatz-4716-common-ground-xbox-360-pad-197388/
Okay, if you used inverters, then you’re golden, just connect the line for that LED to the same signal wire that goes to the button.
And again, you have to use resistors; 2.7k will match the brightness they were with a normal TE board in. Less resistance will increase the brightness, but dont go overboard.
yeah i don’t have enough 2.7k but i have a bunch of 2.2k
then again i could just add a 560ohm to it though
The 2.2k’s will work fine and you wont notice any difference.
ok i got it done (too bad the upper right LED blew :sad:)
[media=youtube]Zsb665TRQ2U[/media]
Thank you very much for the help Toodles, on my own I most likely would have done something stupid and ruined the board.
You could replace it without too much difficulty if you’re will to try. It’s an 0805 package red led.
Digi-Key - 475-1278-1-ND (Manufacturer - LS R976-NR-1-0-20-R18)
13 cents
- $8 shipping (I’m in Canada) D:
it’s fine though, There is an electrical parts store nearby, i’ll grab it when i have the chance.
anyways thanks again.
I haven’t been paying attention to this thread, and I should have. Interesting stuff Toodles, it looks to me like a PnP KNsert + FGwidget port for TE/SE applications. Bonus points for the QD portion of it, that’s really slick!
Bottom left as you said, 1 in and 1 out, one JST cable comes from the TE PCB and one goes back out to the guide/turbo daughter board for intercept functionality, this allows you to control the guide lights to do some cool effects (P1-4 emulation?). Bottom right took me a bit to figure out what you were going for, but it looks (to me) like it’s designed for your single channel KNserts that would utilize a 2 position connector. The pull ups don’t look like they’re going to anything at the moment, perhaps debating on an external VCC so people don’t drain the crap out of the USB line?
Either way it’s pretty slick. Did I win?
I’m for a separate (and separately selectable) set of display modes for those four. Maybe a clockwise/counter counter spin based on button strength held, a slow breathing/pulsing of all four, a steady beat pulse (kinda like this [media=youtube]gXb1ME0dZaI[/media] but it wont be that nice), and…well that’s all I can think of with only four leds. So far.
Resistors are for 150 ohm resistors in series with each LED; KNserts don’t have LEDs on the board.
The bottom right is made for 2 pin 0.1" headers. Add a few 2 pin ended cables, KNs and KNserts, and a very quick dremel usage to mpoke a couple of holes in the buttons, and we’ll have solderless LED mods for TEs and SEs.
If I can make it work. I havent ordered protos yet.
nice find. have you guys seen the Equinox Clock… …sick!!! [media=youtube]JNpjX5mobfI[/media]
that is pretty sick. have company over and scratch their heads on what time it was XP or what it is lol. nice find indeed sir
Noob question for me/future ones: So if i have arc-eyes with resistors on them and i am using Toodles’ LED board. then while assembling it per via instructions, do i need to use if any of the resistors in the kit for the board. first LED stick and so far so good but curious if i should or have to use them or not
My suggestion would be to keep both the resistors on the arceyes and the resistors on the LED controller. Hook it all up and test it out. I’d bet it’ll be beautiful just like that. If you absolutely have to have it a hair brighter, then I can show you how to jumper the resistors on the LED controller.
The full confusing technical rules for FGW LED Controller + Arceyes:
-You absolutely HAVE to use the resistors on the arceyes if you’ll be using a color mix on that arceye, like yellow, cyan, purple, and white.
-Past experience has shown that using the included resistors with the FGW LED Controller and the onboard arceyes resistors works great and is still perfectly bright.
-Using the arceyes resistors and no FGW LED resistors is fine if you have to. Using the FGW LED Controller resistors and no arceyes resistors is a bad idea, but can be doable with single colors. Using the FGW LED Controller resistors and no arceyes resistors is a HORRIBLE idea for mixed color.
Restated in SRK terms:
(FGW Resistors + arceye resistors) > (arceye resistors alone) >>>>>>> (FGW resistors alone)
For plain single channel LEDs, just use the FGW resistors and forget anything else.
thank you sir. greatly appreciated. just curious because i bought a number of your boards and i am missing a 6 pin resistor. so if i cant return it back or get chad to send me one then i will use it as my test dummy for my test dummy stick XP
Err, crap. If it was missing from the bag when you got it, dont be afraid to get ahold of me and I’ll get you straightened out. That’s why I always put those ‘included in bag’ lists in the welcome document. If it got lost, we can either work something out to send a replacement, or I can point you to cheap replacements, like three of these:
Digi-Key - CF18JT150RCT-ND (Manufacturer - CF18JT150R)
9 cents a piece baby, get three to replace a six pin array, or stock up with 10 for 65 cents.