OBS-MX vs SDB-201 buttons. Cherry MX vs Futaba Clicky switches! I wanna buy em now!
Damn. I assume people who have Korean sticks in Europe either went to Korea or bit the bullet and paid for the shipping fees. There is the 309MJ lever which is pretty close to the real deal 309 Help Me lever, but for Japanese sticks. If you are insistent, you can try finding someone you know or go to a local company that can drill in a 35mm hole. You still have to import a Fanta lever, and a mounting plate like the Kowal plate, but mounting should be easy.
Right as I just bought a black 309MJ, the purple/violet ones are coming in. I knew I shoulda just waited! Although, now that the SDL-301DX is in, there is now a decision to make: Go with something I used before in my favorite color, or to try out a new product?
That being said, where would one go to sell their 309MJ? I don’t have access to sell on the Trading Outlet yet, so…
That’s what I was afraid of.
In an ideal world I could just get 2 separate arcade sticks (one for Japanese style and another for Korean style) that both open up like a TE2+/Dragon/Panthera so I can swap different levers in and out easily.
Maybe I’ll just have to resign myself to saving up for the Etokki and importing that.
How much work would the Razer Panthera need to be adapted to Korean levers? I’m trying to figure out if it’s cheaper to try and get one of those modded than it is to import an Etokki Omni.
Although modders are exceedingly hard to find in Europe.
Yeah, i’m planning to mod my TE-S for a K stick at the moment and it should be cheaper for us in the UK not to import an etokki omni. Just remember it’s going to still be expensive and a lot of work but still cheaper than importing a whole stick, but i wouldn’t rule that out. From my experience buying a Qanba Q1, the stick was around £100 after you pay for shipping and then import charges. This was also for a small stick that cost under £50 from Play Asia.
To mod your stick you will need to either buy a replacement plexi, like i’m planning to with the 35mm joystick hole, or use a 35mm step drill on both the metal panel and plexi, but if you buy a replacement plexi, you can always go back to Japanese joysticks if you want. I found one of these drills at £50. You will have to go really careful and use some cutting fluid for this so that your drill doesn’t overheat and fuck everything up(no clue about the cost but this shouldn’t be an issue). You can find a Kowal converter plate from Arcade world UK. Try rotating this 90 degrees so that the joystick base is hanging outside the mounting plate. You can’t get a Fanta from anywhere in Europe as far as I know, so you will have to import that too. Then i’m sure you already know the rest. The joystick should fit inside the Panthera with ample amounts of space.
If you calculate the cost of the joystick, mounting pate, 8-pin harness and new plexi, you should have it cost less than an etokki.(not including the price of the stick to begin with)
@“The Phantomnaut”, I think that I’ll always prefer Sanwa switches but these new switches your posting about are really getting me exited.
Does anybody know what force are the futaba switches compared to Cherry MX and OBSF-30s? I’m a little confused not having much experience with anything other than traditional Japanese buttons. The link @“The Phantomnaut” posted is not helping me.