Korean arcade parts discussion

[DEZALB]

i tried to find a FAQ on the Etokki Omni joysticks and was unsuccessful. Im in the process of finding a used Omni but had a question.
I know there are several Rev’s to this series of arcade sticks. Between all these revs are there any changes to the case itself or is it all to do with the PCB used?
For example, i was told the first Rev had the bunny logo on the plexi. The one im looking at has the bunny, in the picture the case looks abit bulkier plus it seems to have alittle texture to it. Is it just the quality of the picture or was there changes?
Thanks

Also, anyone know where i can get a custom plexi for the Omni? I want 6 buttons

[Abev]

Also in any case which is better or does everyone perfer? the Myoungshin Fanta or the 309?

The 309 is the new hotness, the Myoungshin is the classic. They’re different enough to both have fans. If it’s your first Fanta, I’d recommend the 309 because it will probably take less time to adjust to. I personally prefer the Myoungshin because it reminds me of the Happ hardware I grew up playing on. I should probably just build a custom enclosure, haha.

does anyone knows when focusattack will get any more fantas or 309s in?
i really dont want to pay $50 to buy one from korea

Someone said earlier in the thread that they were trying to get more in by the end of April, but that’s come and gone. With T7 coming, I’m sure they’ll have them as soon as they can.

I emailed FA and they said by the end of may they’re hoping to have some more in stock.

Yeah, I had mentioned before where they hoped to have them by late April. Sucks to wait another month now, really needing another 309.

Nobody else outside of Asia sells 309s at retail, correct?

[_Sazabi]

has anyone ordered from makestick recently and had issues with their order? ive literally been waiting over a month and my order still hasnt shipped. tried contacting them through email and no luck at all.

[STK]

Also in any case which is better or does everyone perfer? the Myoungshin Fanta or the 309?

The 309 is the new hotness, the Myoungshin is the classic. They’re different enough to both have fans. If it’s your first Fanta, I’d recommend the 309 because it will probably take less time to adjust to. I personally prefer the Myoungshin because it reminds me of the Happ hardware I grew up playing on. I should probably just build a custom enclosure, haha.

does anyone knows when focusattack will get any more fantas or 309s in?
i really dont want to pay $50 to buy one from korea

Someone said earlier in the thread that they were trying to get more in by the end of April, but that’s come and gone. With T7 coming, I’m sure they’ll have them as soon as they can.

thanks

Yo, I just got my crown 309mj from makestick.
They shipped that thing from Korea to Illinois in 3 days, no joke.
One thing I can say is it does have much larger dead zones than the JLF I was previously playing on. Anyone have any tips on a larger actuator? A buddy of mine said that would decrease the amount dead zone, but only thing I see online as far as larger actuators, are the ones for the JLF.

so how are you liking it over all?

Anyone know what microswitch is the most sensitive? Im basically looking for something that activates as soon as i touch it with basically no force.

Basically want a stick that can return to neutral very fast but has an ultra sensitive microswitch and a very short throw/engage distance.

You’ll probably going to want some Gersung A2 switches, they’re the most sensitive switches I’ve used so far. Just make sure you don’t use any low tension grommet or else you’ll have a whole bunch of accidental inputs, I recommend a 45-65 tension grommet.

My question is similar. Which microswitch activates easier? The Seimitsu LS-32, LS-40 .187 Fastener Microswitch or the Gersung A2 switches?

[Agieze]

My question is similar. Which microswitch activates easier? The Seimitsu LS-32, LS-40 .187 Fastener Microswitch or the Gersung A2 switches?

ls-32&ls-40 switch is panasonic matsushita AM51662C5N . It is rated in the latest panasonic catalog (under ref AM51662C53N) at 1.18N or 120gf.
www3.panasonic.biz/ac/e_download/control/switch/micro/catalog/discon2015e_qv.pdf?f_cd=400102

According to the official Gersung data charts, the OF values for digit 2 refer only to the non-lever, pin plunger only switch. You need to read further on the datasheets to see how the different types of levers reduce that OF value according to their respective length and thus total actuation length of the switch.
Here we’re dealing with “hinge lever”, see here:
http://gersung.kr/eng/product/micro_switch.html

You can see that the lever less (pin plunger) version V1602 for example is rated at an OF of 200gf but that the corresponding hinge version with the same OF digit (the exact same switch + medium size lever called “hinge lever”) V1622 has an OF of a bit more than half that of the pin plunger version , at 120gf.

So the panasonic (hinge lever 1.18N) and the gersung(hinge lever A2) have the same 120gf Operating Force (OF) , same actuation length , but different Pre-Travel (distance before operating point) values :

Panasonic/Matsushita is listed as having 3.2mm max PT while Gersung has max 4.0mm PT. Actually since the panasonic reaches operating point before the gersung, we can neglect the fact that the panasonic has an actuation length of 35.8mm while the gersung 35.6mm.
Panasonic has 1.0mm max MD (movement differential) while Gersung has 1.5mm : Panasonic resets before the Gersung.

Panasonic actuates and resets on paper before the Gersung , your question is solved.

Concerning the return travel of the lever just after operating position has been reached , the Panasonic has a Release Force (RF) of 20.4gf while the gersung has a RF of 20gf, so they apply the same force on the actuator when resetting during the recentering of the joystick.

By the way all the panasonic/matsushita AM5 switches, even the custom ones made for seimitsu, have been discontinued since March 31 2015, so everything you see “AM5” is simply new-old-stock being released little by little until nothing is left. The new panasonic more or less equivalent line is called "ABV turquoise ".

sw_m_eng_abv.pdf

the discontinued AM51662C53N (or seimitsu’s custom ref AM51662C5N ) has an approximative equivalent in the ABV Turquoise ABV1232503 and ABV1232513 (same connectors, 120gf, same lever, same pre-travel) . The turquoise has movement diff (MD) of 1.2mm max so it resets a bit “later” than the discontinued model (1.0mm) but just a tad before the gersung(1.5mm) . turquoise switch resets (and thus recenters the joysticks actuator) with less force though, at only 0.13N ( 13gf) , compared to the panasonic and gersung both at approx 20gf RF.

Hope it helps

[ProgressiveBalance]

Christ

[GingerWitch]

I’m having mounting issues with my 309 in my TES+… The PCB is in the way…

[GingerWitch]

Here are some pictures.
The metal is hitting a plastic post right under the PCB. I’m going to try and cut the corner off tomorrow…
Crown 309mj mounting issues https://imgur.com/gallery/fQ1rd

[STK]

@Agieze
Yes it does. You really broke it down. Thanks man!!

[The_Phantomnaut]

has anyone ordered from makestick recently and had issues with their order? ive literally been waiting over a month and my order still hasnt shipped. tried contacting them through email and no luck at all.

That guy below seemed to not have too much trouble. Still have less than 5 months to make a claim to PayPal. Maybe they forgot about your order.

Yo, I just got my crown 309mj from makestick.
They shipped that thing from Korea to Illinois in 3 days, no joke.
One thing I can say is it does have much larger dead zones than the JLF I was previously playing on. Anyone have any tips on a larger actuator? A buddy of mine said that would decrease the amount dead zone, but only thing I see online as far as larger actuators, are the ones for the JLF.

I have a 3D printed file where you can expand the outer tube to whatever you want. Don’t mind that little nudge on the actuator. It’s based on the 303 but it will fit a 309 with no issues. I think that hole insert in that model is a bit thin so you might need to shave a bit for the shaft to fit.

i tried to find a FAQ on the Etokki Omni joysticks and was unsuccessful. Im in the process of finding a used Omni but had a question.
I know there are several Rev’s to this series of arcade sticks. Between all these revs are there any changes to the case itself or is it all to do with the PCB used?
For example, i was told the first Rev had the bunny logo on the plexi. The one im looking at has the bunny, in the picture the case looks abit bulkier plus it seems to have alittle texture to it. Is it just the quality of the picture or was there changes?
Thanks

Also, anyone know where i can get a custom plexi for the Omni? I want 6 buttons

I know the original version of the Omni (runs 1& 2) compared to the following models have a modified Vewlix layout (which I sort of want to return in a new Omni). There are also differences in the bottom end between the original version, R3-5 (I believe) and the newer ones where the screws are placed. As for PCB, the older models used a Paewang Revolution PS3/360 board but all newer ones have a Brook PS3/PS4 Fighting Board. Placement of the boards are similar. There are some other small changes I can’t remember at the moment.

As for custom plexi, I knew Marvelous Customs were able to help me with a custom plexi for the Omni a while back when I was using it but I eventually ended up not doing it. You can try asking.

[UltimateChocolate]

I’m having mounting issues with my 309 in my TES+… The PCB is in the way…

just turn the stick 90 degrees and reattach the ground(black) wire.
it doesnt matter is it mount the same direction as the sanwa stick that was in it, just match the wire with the direction input.

i never mess with the new TES but on the old one i had to cut the some of the plastic inside the stick so it would close. if you havent done that yet.

[GingerWitch]

I’m having mounting issues with my 309 in my TES+… The PCB is in the way…

just turn the stick 90 degrees and reattach the ground(black) wire.
it doesnt matter is it mount the same direction as the sanwa stick that was in it, just match the wire with the direction input.

i never mess with the new TES but on the old one i had to cut the some of the plastic inside the stick so it would close. if you havent done that yet.

Friend recommended that too, but when I rotate it, the 3 button is in the way. If the button layout was shifted over a half inch, it would work perfectly.
I realized cutting plastic wouldn’t help, because it can’t go under the PCB, or else the plexi doesn’t set.
So, I’m cutting the mounting plate when I get home from work…
I really don’t want to, but that’s my only option at this point.
If I cut the plate and I’m still having issues, I’m buying a te2 or sone thing from Qanba…

[Agieze]

Kaze lever and other korean sticks have Panasonic AM51630C69N .
There’s a big problem, the digits do not correspond to what is found in korean sticks which is levered switches, as the ref number is that of a non levered switch. Panasonic never changed their actuator type(0=pin plunger, 1=short lever, 2=hinge lever etc etc) digit system for the AM5 line since the beginning right until it was discontinued March 2015.
So it could be a chinese fake switch, or a custom order (Seimitsu switch refs have missing numbers compared to Panasonic/Matsushita refs ) but I honestly doubt that (seimitsu doesn’t make up new numbers in the refs, for example) …or just a genuine lever-less “pin plunger” AM5 switch but mounted with third party made lever (with dimensions identical to genuine hinge lever).

AM5 : product line
16 : amp rating
3 : bottom COM, SPST N.O.
0 : pin plunger , obviously wrong as we should have instead digit “2” for “hinge lever” (medium size)
C : 0.187" quick connector
6 : operating force 2.94N for pin plunger ( 299.8gf so let’s say 300gf)
following digits 9 (agency standard) and N (nickel free) are not important for us.
Note that the latest Panasonic datasheets do not mention any “9” digit for agency standard but only “3”.

What we should have instead of AM51630C69N is AM51632C69N or even AM51632C63N

Panasonic doesn’t let you guess in the dark and gives you the OF (operating force) relative to the type of lever that comes with the switch, so digit 6 for a lever-less switch corresponds to ~ 300gf of OF but if equipped with a medium size flat lever we have 1.77N ( ~ 180.5gf ) OF.

Which one is it and why the mistake in the ref number? generally custom made switches do not have mistake but omitted ref digits or a completely different ref number (proprietary).

I mentioned chinese fakes because mistakes in ref numbers are their specialty, as they mix things up (sometimes on purpose) when imitating a ref number.

The “AM51630C69N” switch seen in korean sticks today should normally have ( with the hinge lever) 180.5gf Operating Force , 20gf Release Force, 3.2mm max pre-travel and 1.0mm movement differential ( distance to reset)

chinese made components with fake ref numbers are literally flooding ebay and other sites today so everything is possible; someone needs to check this AM51630c69N business…and why they are equipped with levers. It would be really labor intensive to buy big quantities of genuine non levered switches , open them by hand and install third party levers, just to say, so it sounds weird to me.

[LordFu]

That’s really interesting. I wonder if we’ll get the real story on the sourcing.

I noticed the difference in pre-travel between my AM51630C69N and Gersung A2 switches immediately, and, other than how they sound, that’s about the only difference between the two.

[Agieze]

That’s really interesting. I wonder if we’ll get the real story on the sourcing.

I noticed the difference in pre-travel between my AM51630C69N and Gersung A2 switches immediately, and, other than how they sound, that’s about the only difference between the two.

Gersung GSM******A2 is hinge lever type so the 200gf OF value is irrelevant (relevant only to pin plunger version) , the chart on datasheet shows the real value after reduction via lever, which is 120gf for A2 hinge lever.
Panasonic AM51630C69N as seen in korean joysticks, medium size levered, is supposed to have 180.5 gf OF which is 1.5x the force needed to actuate the levered Gersung.

Other than different pretravel distances which are normal (3.2mm max vs 4mm max) , these two models should not feel the same in terms of Operating Force.

[Agieze]

It’s difficult to evaluate switches that only have 60gf OF by hand by pressing between fingers. If you can remove the levers, the unlevered switches should have in theory ~ 100gf difference in OF ( ~ 300gf for panasonic, ~ 200gf for gersung) which should be more noticeable

[UltimateChocolate]

@GingerWitch if you do get a new stick you should getthis hori

i have the Soul Calibur 5 version i found on Ebay for like $70 and it fits a korean stick no problem.

also it’s cheaper than to spend $200 for a new on unless you want the one in the link

[GingerWitch]

@GingerWitch if you do get a new stick you should getthis hori

i have the Soul Calibur 5 version i found on Ebay for like $70 and it fits a korean stick no problem.

also it’s cheaper than to spend $200 for a new on unless you want the one in the link

Not a bad option.
Thanks for the heads up.
I’ll post results of mounting plate cutting after work.

[LordFu]

I’m heavy handed, so I’m probably just not noticing the difference of 60g. Good information, thanks.

[GingerWitch]

Here’s a second set of photos, showing mounting issues (for anyone still following my misadventure or for anyone in the future having the same issue.)
309 mounting issues (pt2) https://imgur.com/gallery/lsWXI