The only thing I noticed was that the plastic piece that fits inside the rubber or silicone from the Fujin V2 bloated the soft Crown grommet just a little bit. So far from playing I haven’t noticed instances where I’m missing inputs or having deflection problems. Although I’ve only been playing SF V and UMvC3 with the stick so far. I don’t have a 360 or PS3 anymore to test Tekken. Gotta wait for Tekken 7.
I’ve spent a little time on the Myoungshin, and I’m surprised by how different it is from my 309MJ. The throw to engage is roughly equal, but the Myoungshin has a whole 'nother area past that. I think I’ll learn to like it.
The makestick case and Brooks PS3PS4 board were simple and painless to set up.
Been playing with a Myoungshin Fanta lately and it’s okay, but I couldn’t really warm up to it. Not sure what exactly I didn’t like, but the deadzone was huge and the throw feels really far. Maybe some actuator or tension mods would’ve helped, but I switched to a Crown 309-Helpme today and it feels a lot better. Engages a lot quicker and inputs are a lot more precise so I’m liking it a lot so far.
Still looking to try out a whole bunch of other levers though, the Fujin and Airbag levers in particular. Maybe even the Kaze stick. I wonder which I’d like the most. Any thoughts based on my above preference?
Also, does IST include some kind of spacer for the lever with their Makestick case? Mine didn’t include any and my lever is sitting awfully high, will probably have to dig up some appropriately-sized nuts somewhere.
You could use a second mounting plate if the joystick is too high. I know of at least one person who does this. If you were to buy the Kowal converter you would be able to mount it onto a Korean stick. That’s the only mounting plate I know of that is designed for them.
Got all this in the mail today. What is considered to be the best combo?
I’m currently using Gersung A3 switches in both of my Korean levers, which are stiffer and provide more actuation feedback. Compared with my 309mj, the Myoungshin does feel looser and less responsive. I’ve been riding the gate of the 309mj, instead of letting the joystick “float”, and riding the gate of the Myoungshin isn’t at all advisable. I can also feel the switches actuation more clearly on the 309mj, which I consider a positive.
Suprisingly, though, I’m playing better on the Myoungshin. I’m still struggling a little with double-tapping motions, but I’m significantly more consistent in hitting diagonals and quarter-circle motions.
I’d really, really like to find a stiffer grommet for the Myoungshin. I have a 60A Crown style grommet I might try in the meantime.
That’s actually a really cool idea. I’ll give it a shot some time.
I dunno how different the 309mj is to the helpme, but I’m performing a lot better on the helpme (as opposed to the Myoungshin). Check out this wave dashing - perfect f,qcf motions, not a single missed input.
Definitely agree that the Myoungshin feels a lot looser and less responsive. When I need to do quick inputs I occasionally hit the gate and it takes a really long time to snap back to neutral. I also have some issues doing double and triple inputs on the Myoungshin, but it’s a lot easier on the 309. I think the higher tension on the 309 has something to do with why I’m liking it more.
For me, I favor the myoungshin more because I don’t really go much further than engage point. I don’t intentionally aim to ride the gate. When I used to play on my crown’s (which were 303/307, I can’t speak for 309’s) I can understand riding the gate plus the harder tension. So switching to myoungshin had a little adjustment period, in my case.
They’re supposed to be pretty similar, but I’m trash on a good day. I main Paul so my swaying isn’t nearly as precise as wave dashing. 
Multiple mounting plates came stock with both of my makestick pros. Be wary of screw length, though. Too short and it won’t work. Too long and it’ll push against the plexi or whatever you use
I never knew that. I don’t know why they don’t just make the stick without the need to do this but I find this quite a good work around for the mounting height issue. But what if I have a plexi on my arcade stick like the madcatz TES? Does that elevate the need for a second mounting plate?
Also, which layout do you guys think works best with a Myoungshin? Vewlix or Noir? I have two Madcatz TEs, one with Vewlix and the other with Noir and I want to know which works best for Tekken and also a Myoungshin Fanta. (also Vewlix saves me money) 
Could be a preference question. Depends on if people like the spacing between lever and buttons. If so, I’d say Noir. If they prefer them closer, Vewlix. IMO Noir feels right to me. I don’t mind Vewlix layout for buttons, but I still prefer the space and favor Hori’s Kai layout as a second alternative when I play Tekken.
My vote for Tekken and M-fanta would be the Namco noir layout. I’m sure that’s what they used in their cabs overseas also.
How and where are you guys mounting PCBs into your Makestick cases? I couldn’t really find a good place so I just stuck it in the space under the first 2 columns of buttons with a few cable tie mounts and cable ties.
Guess it wouldn’t be worth me buying a 309mj to try out, then. Are you swaying better on the Myoungshin? I had a lot of trouble doing qcbs on that, they came out a lot more often on my 309.
Strange, I didn’t get any 
Ended up just using a couple of spare nuts temporarily.
Also, I was wondering why my plexi was arched up like that when it was flat out of the box… No wonder they included all those screws.
Tekken cabinets use the Noir layout, and it’s a much more ergonomic layout than Viewlix. That being said, since Tekken only uses 4 buttons, the only real difference is the stick spacing unless the few millimeters of button alignment bothers you. I don’t think the lever you choose really has much to do with the button layout, but it’s mostly a preference thing anyway.
I put mine on the bottom right corner of the control panel, basically right under the Makestick logo, but I used a longer joystick cable than what the PS3PS4 board came with.
If they’re as close as the marketing material claims, it wouldn’t be worth it. I’m executing qcbs faster and more consistently on the Myoungshin, but it may just be that the Myoungshin is forcing me to correct my bad habits.
So does anyone know if I would be able to put the Noir panel inside the standard TE. I don’t know if the buttons will fit into the case. I cant show pictures but there are holes underneath the metal panel for the buttons to pass through underneath the metal panel. The sticks that come with the Noir layout don’t have the holes. The entire section is cut away on my Soul Calibur stick. I want to put a Noir panel on my TES but i don’t know if i can do this. I might be able to just bend the quick disconnects but I’m not sure.
Any Help Guys???
The Myoungshin Fanta in stock configuration is decent. Though, the 10mm thick shaft and the 60a silicone grommet did help. The stock diameter on the Fanta (16.5mm) works well. Right now I’m experimenting with Cherry D44Y switches and so far they are working (a bit sensitive but the hard grommet does help balance things out).
In regards to the Makestick case mines didn’t have a spacer included. Though, with the 309 Help Me lever installed the stick height is the same as the Golden Fanta mod on my TE2+.
Hello, I have been lurking here for a while and finally bought a crown 303 to try out a korean stick, I really love the way the stick feels but Im having trouble hitting diagonals on it, is there a online store where you can buy the golden fanta parts that people are talking about? I am basically trying to get close to the old happ p360 sticks that I use to play on back then. Im guessing the 303 is pretty ass from what I have read so Im looking to maybe try the helpme or build my own golden fanta.
@DAyala You would need to buy a Myoungshin Fanta for the Golden Fanta Parts to work. They won’t work on Crown Levers.
@DAyala plus, golden fanta parts are in beta for now and haven’t hit retail yet anyways. Most I could tell you is to try the “fanta crown upgrade kit”, but I think FA doesn’t carry it anymore. Microswitch change may help. That, or just stick with what you got, be patient, and adapt.
They still had the grommets available by themselves and a couple different types of switches, last I checked.
I think the grommet is a big improvement over stock, myself.