Crown spring presses against the collar base and on the top part of the bushing, so yes, indeed, with this design both spring and grommet will combine for centering of the shaft.
If you put a spring between bushing and actuator as proposed by Wawuz, as long as you TILT the handle you’ll never feel the presence of the spring, but if you pull upwards you will (but you’re not supposed to pull upwards at all, even less with K-levers), this being said the stiffer the spring, the less you’ll feel its presence when pulling the shaft upwards, the more you’ll be approaching the state of having parts locked together with a perfectly tight fit.
think of a Sanwa JLF for example, if you pull upwards the bearing hits the mounting plate, then the shaft slides upwards until the spring is fully compressed, the difference here is that the spring does two things, it cancels the backlash of moving parts on the shaft assembly but above all it serves as the tensioning system for the centering of the shaft since there is no grommet.
Otoh, for the Fujin, perhaps you got too used to the feel with the stock myoungshin part and need to readapt (or not), it’s a question of personal preference in this case.
@Agieze Good point! Just want to see what gives more consistent results between using fujin bushing and myoungshin inside both fujin and myoungshin. The quicker return to neutral due to higher tension in fujin does give you a sense of speed but at the same time lighter tension with myoungshin bushing also gives that feeling. The grommet I’m using at the moment is a soft red grommet from makestick. Maybe I’ll try the clear grommet from golden fanta kit with fujin bushing tonight and see how that works. That clear grommet on myoungshin honestly feels like there’s no grommet inside haha. I’m curious as well as to how much those metal bushings will weight.
@VarmintBaby Unfortunately I don’t think any US sellers carry it right now. Focus attack had a few in stock a few weeks ago but since they removed the page they probably don’t plan on stocking any more.
Great, you understand it very well. I have done making the bushing and now I need your suggestion to choosing spring tension.
trade off : too light, the wobble still exist but too hard the shaft hardly rotate. which one is preferable? slightly too light or slightly too hard?
This bushing allow you to insert spring to eliminate wobble or just simply take off the spring and use it just like normal Korean Stick
update : I just install Golden Core ( without spring yet) and Now I feels identical to Green lever I have try ( no surprise since it have all the parts almost identical to green lever). Using metal core, I can feel the core/spool hiting the bottom lever case/body before the shaft hitting the collar, just like original green lever. I don’t know if I like this, but I will give it a try.
it still have little wobble to the shaft. Personally I don’t like wobble and I already order some custom spring. hopefully it will be ready next week.
I will make about 15 set of this Golden Spool for beta testing.
@wazwuz
I think it’s up to each and everyone’s personal preference.
some people try to do movements with diagonals involved and due to rotation of the shaft they “slip” to the adjacent direction, while others have stronger hand muscles and are ok with said rotation.
Axial tolerance issue on the shaft between bushing & actuator is not that important though compared to other design problems in k-levers, so I’d say go with light spring constant. After all, the trend is to get close to certain japanese lever standards that could eventually be compatible with k-levers (example crown infiltration model with its restrictor plates, or the crown “conversion” shaft), japanese levers can rotate with ease.
Considering the (dirt cheap) price of standard helicoidal wire springs, you could include both “soft” and “hard” in the kit.
@wazwuz Personally if I had to choose I’d rather it be slightly heavy since you could always remove the spring if wobble doesn’t bother you. Though ultimately I’d rather pay a little extra for multiple springs.
Had a chance to mess around with the Green arcade lever setup by @wazwuz . This is just my opinion and feedback based on first impression.
7mm shaft
14.5mm actuator
Am5 switches.
I do have to say, I had to really make sure my switches were pushed as close towards the actuator as possible before tightening down on the acrylic switch plate. I say this because when I initially tried this setup, my left switch wasn’t really registering as well also causing UB and DB (from player 1 side) not to be consistent either. So a double check on my placement actually helped, must’ve been a fraction off. But none the less got more consistency afterwards.
For me, cardinal directions were ok, but I felt I had to really dig deep for that “df” or “db”. I’m playing tekken btw, using kazuya. I could get a feeling of wavedashing but really had to hold the “df” for that ewgf to register.
I happened to have a 15mm actuator and tried it. I felt like it made a lot of difference in the corner inputs. I’m a fan of the 7mm shaft though. I felt like with the 7mm shaft paired with the 15mm actuator, I could throw and not hit the collar so much (which is a preference of mine) plus catch corner inputs better.
As far as the 14.5 actuator, I think it’s doable. Someone could adapt to it. Maybe A3’s might compliment it more?
So if I had to be critical based on first impression.
7mm shaft = like
14.5mm actuator = dislike
Edit: I forgot to mention, I was using myoungshin as my base, not Taeyoung. Maybe Taeyoung will take the smaller actuator better because of the closer switch positioning.
Picked up some A3s to put in my 309MJ. I had AM5s (AM51630C69N) in before, and from what I can tell, they feel extremely similar. If you had me blind test them, I probably wouldn’t be able to tell the difference. Just thought it was worth mentioning for anyone who wanted the Panasonic switches specifically. The only thing that I would say is that the AM5s might reset a little bit sooner than the A3s. But if it does, it’s a very minute difference.
Can anything else in the housing affect the resistance in a direction? The more I push forward (on the forward direction) it gives off more resistance. This happens on all grommets (25, 35, 45)
@wazwuz Here are my impressions with some Gersung switches. The V1623A3 switches feel slightly better than Panasonic switches I have been using before. Doing KBD, wave dashing, instant while running and some other moves felt a bit more consistent and easier. I did notice that the diagonal zones feel slightly bigger which can be good for some players.
As for V0323A3 switches, they were not great with the shaft and the actuator. While I can wavedash and instant while run decently with these, KBD felt very inconsistent to do. This goes for the same with the V1623A2 switches. Personally I wouldn’t recommend these switches.
Maybe there is some excess plastic on the bottom of the collar that you need to remove?
I got some more findings , some were really stupid so excuse me but at least it helped me so i gotta share …
So … i managed to solve my wobling and twirling around on my Fujin and it wasnt the actual bushings problem… it was the actuators and E-clips .
One day i just wanted to test the 14.5mm actuator of the fujin and i emediatly saw it had a tighter fit into the shaft , i had to twist abit the shaft into the actuator almost like screwing in but with the slide effect hope its understandable … so people dont break their actuators …
After that i got into thinking of maybe am focusing on wrong things because of the labels sincei was so happy my shaft stoped twirling around on fast moves . i bought diffrent kind of e-clips from makestick i mailed them and they said they had some for fanta for almsot everything i bought and tested each and every one of them , and i was making the hug of the e-clip even tigther around the shaft by pinching it with a pincher abit tighter… BOOM no wobbling not moving around it acts like everything is a solid peace i really enjoy it altho i expect with extend use to losen up but atm its perfect .
Any thoughts any suggestions anything that it might improve a single thing is appriciated . @wazwuz@zero_requiem
About the Green setup am still waiting te package from wazwuz , along with some microswitch supports, was wondering if i order a microswitch support without the holes is it easy to just go with my fujin lever and make one for it ? would be nice .
I also hope he provides 14,5 and 14.7 actuators with the green setp shafts . Have a good one everyone peace
Hi guys, new to the tread here, have been using sanwa for some years now but read this tread got me curious, what korean joystick you guys recommend I should try?
I’m a Mishima player (a noob one, but still ) and a street fighter player.
I live in Brazil so finding unusual parts to import can be difficult.
If your arcadestick case house’s a Sanwa lever, I would say “try the crown 309mj”. The catch is that they come with a 25A shore grommet. I myself, favoring Mishima style characters, feel like the 35A is the sweet spot. BUT since you are transitioning from years of Sanwa play, 25A might do well for you.
I have a similar background (years of playing on JLFs, primarily SF) and I found it not too difficult to pick up using the 309MJ. I felt that the 25A grommet was too light pretty quickly though, so it may be worth ordering the 35A grommet to go with it at the same time. I don’t think you’ll find them without anymore, but make sure your 309MJ comes with either the Panasonic AM5 microswitches or Gersung A3 microswitches. According to Phantomnaut, it seems like the different rated A3 switches actually perform differently too so bear that in mind.
@Marios I find depending on the lever if you put the bushing upside down you won’t be able to twist battop and when it’s put it the right way it spins freely. I noticed this on the fujin awhile back. The tolerances between bushing, actuator, shaft and e-clip play a big part in this and any slight change will impact how the lever feels.
Well… it’s a tension based Grommet. Of course the more you push on it the more it’s going to resist. Kinda the whole way Korean Grommets are used for the sticks neutral return.
) and a street fighter player.