Does Crown make the SDB-201 in 24mm? I know focus doesn’t carry them, but does anyone know if they even exist? I hear paradise is gonna make a OBSMX in 24mm but I know I really like the style of the Crown buttons for sure. I’d take those over anything.
Agreed. Best buttons I’ve ever used in my Omni…
I’m a new owner of a 309MJ for two weeks now, and I’m using it for SFV, T7, and Injustice 2.
It was hard for me to adjust, coming from a Sanwa JLF. It was difficult to perform diagonals, quarter circles, and half circles suffered because I feel the input for diagonals is very narrow with the A2 switches. I want to get the A3 switches everyone is talking about, but Focus Attack doesn’t have them in stock.
I was about to give up on the 309MJ and return it until I wrapped the switches’ metal arms with some thin cardstock and scotch tape (to minimize resistance). It seems to increase the stick’s sensitivity, decrease the dead zone (if i’m using the term correctly), my diagonals are much more consistent, and I don’t have to ride the “gate” as hard.
Maybe you guys can try this out until the A3 switches come back in stock … unless there’s another A3 source?
http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/af20/eljaykooljay/309MJ%20Poverty%20Mod.jpg
There is always Panasonic switches which some 309s and Help Me 2nd gen models had. Not the exact same but can possibly work fine. There are also the new Omron switches used in the new LS-32 models which are supposed to replace the Panasonic switches in old LS-32 models; you can try replacing the metal tab or straightening em out.
Technically the collar can influence diagonals but you do have to factor in actuator and shaft sizes as well. With the Golden Crown set, I assume it can solve the diagonal issue for those with the specific A2 switches with a good shaft and actuator combo.
On a side note, I do like to see the normal 303 models back since that has a wider collar funnel. After using the Taeyoung Fanta, I can say that the 303 is Crown’s equivalent of sorts.
so its probably safe to say the golden fanta is now a complete package !
been testing different battops with golden kit lately (kdit aluminium, sanwwa LB30N , sanwa clear) with my preferred 45 green grommit sanwa LB30 is almost perfect i sanded down myn to make it smoother which turned out ok but is a litle on the light side overall with the 8mm shaft
if only we had more options im looking for a gloss finish like the original fanta or part gloss but obviously needs to screw on to the shaft and be the right weight overall i found the kdit aluminium is too heavy resulting in alot of missed inputs and the sanwa clear battop just sits way too high. Debating weather to clear coat the LB30N what youz recon?
You’re mixing things up there with the FJ and MJ.
MJ does not mean japanese mount. MJ stands for “chopped collar” according to Crown/Samducksa, due to the collar (or neck) being of reduced height). MJ option exists for 303 and 309 and is always in “sanwa” mounting plate. Newsflash, it also exists for 307 but probably no one gives a flying fuck about it due to diagonal issues.
307MJ (and 303MJ, 309MJ) :
http://samducksa.com/new/product/index_view.php?UidNum=373
The J in MJ does not mean “japanese” because M alone exists as an option : 309M which is collar-less. 309M is the new and revised F collar-less series (FJ & FK) . F had inherent playability issues due to way they implemented the absence of the said neck: excessive rubbing against plate; looseness etc.
The J in FJ means japanese mounting plate and K in FK means korean mounting plate …but J in MJ does not mean japanese mounting plate.
By the way ETOKKI is making a serious mistake by selling 303FK by claiming FK corresponds to japanese plates. K in FK stands for the MOUNT not the switches, FK should be korean mounting plate, but Etokki really shows pics of FJ with “sanwa” (japanese) plates.
http://www.etokki.com/Joysticks
official sheets for
303F http://samducksa.com/new/product/index_view.php?UidNum=192
307F http://samducksa.com/new/product/index_view.php?UidNum=359
I explained MANY times in this same thread that the refs used by Crown/ Samducksa are overly complicated and not very professional since they induce easily in error .
SDL301DX for example has a MJ collar/neck but doesn’t sport the MJ letters anywhere in the ref.
Oddly, 309MJ sheet is not available on Samducksa website .
Crown has no “sheet” for the collarless 309M (or “sanwa” version of 309Helpme on Korean sites) as it is considered a SPECIAL version made only for fighsticks.
only sheet available from Crown is the standard korean mount,korean switch and korean collar standard 309Helpme:
http://samducksa.com/new/product/index_view.php?UidNum=366
SMS SilentMicroSwitch option exists for Crown models, can be mounted on Fanta, but they’re just old style leafswitches with a plastic mounting base compatible with current microswitch mounting holes.
Design and quality seem …meh to me (only tried the old ones on old Crowns I think it was the 304, I do not know if the SMS switch quality changed since then. Old leafs were soft and flimsy) .
these panasonics are one step softer than the ones used generally in K-levers. Classic Pana “Thai” switch in k-levers is supposedly 180gf, the discontinued panasonic switch for seimitsu is (verified) 120gf (or 118N) and thus EXACTLY the same (on paper) as the operating force of the Gersung A2 without the actuating problem.
you can’t replace the hinge lever blade on omron V, the cases are closed with rivets. Good luck using the wrong lever from another brand , drilling through the rivet and risking ruining the internal mechanism with debris from the tooling. This trick only works with same brand (or compatible) blades, when cases are snap fit .
These CUSTOM Omron V switches are also at 120gf, so same as Gersung GSM-V***A2 in operating force. Do NOT straighten the blades!! Seimitsu asked Omron to bend the blade upwards to reduce the deadzone , in order to imitate the discontinued panasonics (which have less max pretravel).
If you straighten the blade, you’ll never do a clean job, (the bending is done with machines, not by hand) and you’ll lose that extra precision those custom omron V made specially for seimitsu have in comparison with stock omron V of same force and comparble gersing A2.
in terms of sensitivity and precision :
custom omron v for seimitsu (120gf) > stock omron v (120gf) >= gersung gsm-v***A2 (120gf)
So I’ve just ordered a Fujin V2 from makestick and Rohan informed me that the latest batch won’t be using the discontinued panasonic switches which is a little disappointing but obviously what I expected when I ordered.
“Thanks for your enquiry. I heard that they installed Panasonic until recent models and looking for another type of switches as replacement.”
He hasn’t said what their planning on replacing them with but regardless, what would you recommend getting that’s closest to them and if so where can you purchase them? Or in general other high quality microswitches for korean levers.
I currently own a myoungshin and taeyoung fanta from etokki that both use gersung A2 switches and although I don’t think I’ve had any of the issues that I’ve read some people here have had with them… This is my first arcade stick and I barely know anything about korean levers in general let alone microswitches (as well as not having a point of comparison) to really form an opinion on them.
@kimjongskill
I agree with Phantomnaut that hinge lever panasonics for seimitsu ls32 or ls40 (if you can salvage them) are the best choice for replacing A2 (amongst what is available in arcade shops) . Common sense= avoid pcb versions (-01) .
Same thing for the new custom omron v for seimitsu ls-32/40 as second choice (but at least are readily avilable), and of course do not fiddle with the blades despite their appearance, they’re ok the way they are. It was pretty evident from the latest posts that although I didn’t agree with his idea of straightening of the blades that these switches were good alternatives for those who want to avoid Gersung and or in particular the faulty Gersung A2 with extraordinarily big pretravel/low operating point.
There are other switches on the market, but it would be overly complicated and expensive for you guys to order , since arcade parts dealers do not stock them.
This being said, it is highly probable that panasonic switches are replaced by korean lever manufacturers and korean modders (Fujin is a mod) by so-called “A2” or “A3” (in fact GSM-V****A2 or A3) . No surprise. “Looking for another type of switches as replacement” …it made me laugh for a second. Look at Crown’s latest offering, the expensive SDL301DX, despite the price it comes stock with Gersung A3. They really want to sell those korean switches.
I contacted Rohan as well and he told me the same thing. I was going to get the fujin v2 for my brother but find it very odd that they are selling it without knowledge as to what switches come with it. Ever since getting my golden fanta I’ve put my fujin’s Panasonic’s onto the golden fanta myoungshin and using the fujin with a2s and have no problems at all executing electrics. That being said i seen the new seimitsu ls32/40 switches on focus attack and ordered some to see how they compare to Panasonic’s since they’re clones. I also ordered the omron switches that come with sanwa jlw just to see how they feel in a korean lever.
The Omron switches are not panasonic clones. The clones in the story are the gersung. The new “seimitsu” switches for ls32/40 are just Omron V switches with the levers bent industrially to a precise angle…to imitate the best they could the AM5 from panasonic used by seimitsu .
Omron in JLW are standard omron v.
Didn’t Taeyoung get better? It used to be super-stiff, very hard to break it into a playable state. Can you elaborate more regarding the “actuator”?
Oops that’s what I meant to say. They wanted to make something similar but very unlikely that they would be identical. Luckily for me my fujin v2 came with the am5’s.
@VR-Fist it’s just what other members on this forum recommended but since I have the golden fanta kit I never felt the need to do it. I don’t mind stiff grommets since I only use the switches when it’s like that. Softer grommets on the other hand I will ride the gate all day lol. My recommendation if you can’t get used to it is to just get a softer grommet rather than breaking it in. The grommet will always revert back to its orignal state when it is not used for long periods of time. I find with softer grommets I tire more easily since my hand is more prone to doing larger motions so my preference is for it to be stiffer.
@zero_requiem Thanks. I got the Omni Korean Edition, should be coming sometime this week. It’s with the soft tension rubber Taeyoung, so I expect it’s going to be good. If not, Myoungshin is what I had my old Saulabi modded off before I switched to Japanese sticks for SF4, so I would get back to that, unless I find a better suggestion here.
i would order one golden crown set if shipping is possible to finland?
@VR-Fist no worries the soft grommet should work perfectly for you. Enjoy they etokki omni man it’s amazing. When I bought my brothers omni I got him a myoungshin fanta as well just in case he didn’t like the taeyoung. Turns out he liked the taeyoung better
Has anyone tried Cherry microswitches? I have these on a JLF and they are damn near silent. Can’t hear them at all in use on the stick.
Does Cherry make levered microswitches? Getting them to fit in a K-lever would take significant modifications if not.
they make the D44Y, if they’re anything like D44X, then they’re very soft
@“masked rider” no modification needed. it’s a typical levered switch