I was discussing with somebody on another forum and he said the reason they stopped selling the lever was because the microswitches were made by panasonic who have stopped producing them. Does this latest batch use replacement microswitches and are they inferior in any way? Still new to korean arcade parts and sticks in general having only used my omni with the taeyoung for a few weeks but heard good things about the fujin and anxious to try it out.
309 and taeyoung already have flat base for switch, but they don’t have support plate. Only airbag (top) and fujin (bottom) have support plate. Golden Fanta mod combine both (top and bottom) support plate to mount switches perfectlly flat on myoungshin.
Bottom support plate is making sure it have flat base (especially for myoungshin), while top support making sure it have same force on wider area while tighten the switches and prevent the switch tilting due to excessive force in one side.
Thank you for your support. I will start making more golden fanta next mont after golden crown first batch is finished.
I think we have enough improvement on golden fanta and can called it retail version, thank you so much for the feedback. This community project is awesome and i’m proud being part of it. I will try to market Golden Fanta outside this forum for the retail version.
i installed it, worked like a charm
you’ll have bend one of the switch leads a little bit to avoid bending the harness cable on the side
friendly tip, look for a harder grommet because the 25g one is a joke (i used a 35g from the 309FJ and it still needs to be a little bit more stiff imho)
By the way, are there any silent switches for korean sticks? I’ve been having evening wifey problems as of late. Got my buttons silenced, but it seems that won’t cut it.
hey guys, I’ve been meaning to try a Korean stick for a while, I know most people mod theirs due to preference but what would you guys say it’s the best stock Korean stick? thanks.
for me it was the taeyoung fanta (the 2017 etokki one that has the soft grommet and gersung A2s)
but really why keep it stock? modding the stick is easy
The only silent switches that come to mind are the reed switches (Omron D2RV) that Sanwa uses for the silent JLFs. Now, versions of those switches that comes with levers (like the switches found in K-sticks) exists. However, I have no idea if the levers are the right size to work in a Korean stick nor do I know if the switches themselves work out resistance-wise in terms of precision of input. They’re also very expensive for micro switches (~$8/ea usually). Might be worth a shot but it also might be equally as effective as flushing $40+ down the toilet.
@zero_requiem I’d understand the nature and scale of a small home-based storefront if Makestick is operating as such (Akishop doesnt look small scale to me), but even then, they should’ve known what the status of the order is. Are the items available? Are they awaiting packaging and shipping? If they’re shipping, what service is used and the tracking detail, etc. I’ve dealt with smaller home-based setups with even more niche nature of interest, and even these folks understand the importance of customer communication. I’ve waited 3 months for a custom artisan Star Wars collectible to be built, and he’s operating out of his storage room in Tokyo, with a lesser command of English than these guys at Makestick or Akishop. And he made an effort (him using Google Translate) to communicate when it’ll be complete, and when it’s packed and shipped. Point is, I don’t really care about broken English, but I appreciate the most, the effort made to communicate with paying customers.
… sorry about that, I didn’t mean to rant, and certainly not directed at anyone here, I’m just frustrated with this silence. :s
@sinonick didn’t realize the 2017 eTokki Omni comes with A2 switches. Diagonals works fine for me on the Omni, but the 309MJ diagonals fiasco with the A2 switch got me worried about my own 309MJ lever ordered from Makestick. They’re one and the same, right? (The A2 switch I mean).
@wazwuz looking good, bro! Counting the days for you to produce more Golden Fantas! I’ll probably just run mine with the grommets, shaft and actuator from your Fanta kit when it receive it, I’m out of my depth when it comes to drilling or anything more complex like that. And then, there’s also the issue of whether your Fanta mod works with Omni’s Taeyoung lever…although I believe someone earlier confirmed that it does work with that lever.
Would you be dropping it into a Japanese mount or Korean mount case?
I also feel like it’s still a preference question. A person who’s tried them all could give good insight. Idk who here has. My experience though:
With Japanese mount, has only been crown 303 and 307. I really liked the 303 a lot versus the 307. I even contemplate getting a k-mount version. Thing about it is that the throw is long. Not really comparable to the ls40 you like, but maybe towards the busa you like (I’ve heard they have a farther throw).
As for k-mount, I’ve only messed with a myoungshin fanta and crown’s 309 helpme. I liked them both. Both have their preference, I felt the M-fanta you didn’t have to throw far to actuate the switches and there was more wiggle room between actuation and top collar gate. So I didn’t feel a need to ride the gate with it. I also prefer the tension in it. With the 309, the tension was lighter but was still able to get the job done, won’t tire you out if you use a high movement/execution character for a long session. I liked the Panasonic switches that came with it, it’s a shame they won’t come with them anymore. I feel like I hit the gate more but maybe some ppl prefer that. It’s still a good stock lever though. I tried it with A2’S and A3’S and didn’t feel like I was hindered in anyway with directional input. A3’S felt like it had better feel to make up for the lighter grommet tension.
@stringfellow i certainly hope so, I have heard of variations of the same switch before, but mostly harmless with no actual difference (like temperature ratings or a different print on the switch).
@jey-are buddy i had been trying to find a comparison of panasonics, A2s and A3s on the 309 for a good while now. Thanks!
one last thing now, i have in my possession a few arcade parts and i’m willing to provide upclose pictures, compare stuff, mix and match components and try things out (within reason). I’ve been trying for a while to gather information so i feel this could help someone out.
I own the following:
Hori RAP4 KAI
Hori Hayabusa + 2lb and 4lb springs + kowal octogate + oversized actuator
Seimitsu LS-56 + the octogate + the low throw mod
309FJ (no collar) and 309MJ (chopped collar) with panasonic switches and 25g and 35g silicon grommets (also expecting the 60A black rubber one from FA soon)
Taeyoung Fanta with soft and medium rubbers equipped with the default Gersung A2s + the kowal universal plate
I also have clear sanwa and seimitsu 30mm and 24mm buttons, the crown harness and some more stuff
Also what are opinions on the Kaze and Airbag lever also on makestick. Is the airbag the myoungshin airbag mod I’ve seen talked about a couple times in this thread? Can’t find much opinion on the Kaze. I was planning on adding both to my order with the Fujin but they were out of stock. Are they worth trying out at some point?
So far I have the taeyoung and myoungshin (ordered from etokki which had visible damage when it arrived - they told me is ‘the norm’ apparantly) and a Fujin on the way. Do the Kaze and Airbag have any advantages over these?
and the diagonals feel much easier to hit. Only thing is I had to straighten out the metal lever that hits the switch, otherwise I was getting accidental inputs cause the actuation distance was too short.
Don’t forget that I was chiming in on the 309 Helpme (Korean mount) and not the 309mj (chopped collar). I hear about the directional issues coming from the “MJ” users and not so much from the “Helpme” users.
I am under the impression the diagonals issue has to do with the switches and nothing to do with the collar. The 309s are identical except for the collar (the top plastic part and ofc the plate) afaik. @jey-are