@Agieze I read your post and your right that i didn’t read it properly the first time. The reason that i thought there are changes internally is because I wouldn’t expect seimitsu or omron to just bend a tab on a microswitch, change some numbers and claim they have recreated the AM5 like they have. Although to be honest i don’t think that seimitsu or omron ever claimed that and i’m sure that just bending the tabs is more cost efficient. "Faced with this challenge, Seimitsu went to work on an alternative, collaborating with respected microswitch brand Omron to develop a replacement model. Their goal was to replicate the feel of their original Panasonic microswitch, which fans have grown to known and enjoy. After many months of testing, including sample models at FA with thanks to SRK’s PresidentCamacho - an ardent technical fan of the Seimitsu line - this new model is now available." i stole this from Focus Attack. I feel really naive having read that and not seen the changes in data sheets or in person but after Arcade world Uk and now Focus Attack, i now no not to just listen and believe.
I wonder if you could bend the tabs back straight again if you used the switch enough.
Dont get sad about sales pitches and/or press release claims, they’re meant to sell. As for FA he probably just pasted the info Seimitsu sent him along with the samples to be tested.
Keep in mind the new ABV line by Panasonic has practically the same internal specs as discontinued AM5. Omron cloning an AM5 “to the bone” by redesigning the internals would be weird and why risk a trial for infringing on intellectual property ?
Tweaking a hinge blade is an age old trick(best avoided, microswitches are not leafswitches) for arcade techs, this time it has been performed professionally with repeatable consistent results, not some freehand funny job. It’s also cost effective compared to custom ordering a complete redesign of the innards of a switch still in production(also, if the inside was completely redesigned form scratch it wouldn;t be a V series anymore. Look at the tech sheet, a given switch series corresponds to a pin plunger model which serves as a core reference, to which you fix a certain type of special lever: short, medium, long, with roller, etc etc. You change the basic switch, you change the entire line. In t he same line of switches ,a very light 15gf pin plunger switch will not behave like an overly stiff 500gf pin plunger one in the same series though. That is why you often have values pertaning to a certain “pin plunger” value and need to refer to a chart to see how it translates when you have a special lever added, as it changes the actuating specs)
If you’re worried about bending the hinge levers back straight again, I doubt it would happen in a LS-32 or LS-40, but only time will tell if they budge.
What you want to avoid is having a situation where the pin plunger (or button) is completely depressed with part of the blade resting against the switch body, the actuator still pushing against the other portion of the blade, not having yet contacted the gate. That sort of configuration must at all cost be avoided, so if you plan on using the new omron switch on a customized joystick, check to see first (I doubt so as the bend angle is not that important ).
I ordered the fujin from makestick.com a Week ago, still no confirmation i also emailed but no respone So far. Should I cancel and try again?
Any other ideas?
There seems to be a drought of Crown conversion harnesses in the UK , board also has 2-Pin slots but finding either .187" to 2-pin or the .187" to 5-pin appears to be pretty much impossible.
If you are willing to buy from France or Germany. I’m having the same problem and might just by mine from korea as I need a Fujin. Search for STARCAB and ARCADESHOP. There’s a link to them in the tech talk rules thread.
Found a solution, used some of the cables that I had lying around for buttons, the rubber fits around the terminals for the Crown stick and luckily my PCBs all have 2-pin directions so it works out.
Although ideally I’d want a more permanent solution, will probably import some with a Fanta from the US or something.
The Taeyoung has been stuck in customs so I haven’t been able to pick it up yet. The Fujin has been really fun to use. It doesn’t feel like any other lever i’ve tried. My movement is better on Airbag and Crown 309, but I still need more time to get used to the Fujin.
I might swap out the grommet for something lighter like @DJ-Blitz said, but I will wait a couple of weeks to see how i adjust to the stock grommet.
I ordered again from Makestick 2 weeks ago and still nothing, longest they’ve ever taken so far. The transaction is gone and my money has been returned as well, I wonder what’s going on. I’ll give them a bit more time before I ask them about it I guess.
Everything appears to be near identical to the old Taeyoung, save for microswitch stamping appearing different than the GSM-V1623A2 switches found on the Myoungshin. The original Taeyoung switches were I believe GSM-V1623A2’s but were brown in color with red tabs, if memory serves. It’s too difficult to judge from the photos if the Taeyoung shaft is still ~2mm taller than the Myoungshin, but I’m sure it is.
How does the stock Taeyoung lever feel or differ from a stock Myoungshin in your opinion? I will add, for anyone who hasn’t played on a Taeyoung before, to swap out the stock actuator for that of the Myoungshin. The stock actuator is notorious for missing diagonal inputs, even with the closer spacing of the microswitches (than that of a Myoungshin). If you don’t have access to a Myoungshin actuator (or Golden Fanta actuators), then I suggest to at least reverse the orientation of the stock Taeyoung actuator. You will gain ~1mm or so in diameter, as the cylinder is ever so slightly graduated.
I also like the HelpMe actuator for that as well. A must-have mod for the joystick. Also the microswitches are the same as the most recently released Taeyoungs from last time (2011?, earlier?). I wish red ones would come back out.
Now etokki is selling the omni with the taeyoung instead of the Myoungshin. I just thought I’d add. I would be great if you could buy replacement parts for the Fanta sticks like dust covers and actuators because if you have an issue with it you will need to buy a new stick.
@wazwuz having the micros witches closer together should change how the golden Fanta mod should performs you think you would make taeyoung specific actuators?
Is that a wise idea? I don’t own a 309, but I imagine the actuators have the same ID as the 307/305/etc. & those are ~2mm too large for Taeyoung shafts. You can swap Myoungshin actuators; Golden Fanta actuators included. Though the ID of the ASI actuators is a hair smaller than stock Myoungshin, so a bit of liquid lube is necessary for them to fit. I’m using the bronze actuators on my Taeyoung now.
