Kaimana RGB LED Board thread, RGB animations and more! SRK Tech Talk 2013 Product of the Year!

[fluffhead]

I’m interested in doing this. Is the wiki down?

http://support.paradisearcadeshop.net/doku.php?id=kaimana_led_controller

[everythingWasBees]

So the micro usb port on my Mini Kaimana seems like it’s going to break off next time I try plugging simething in. Does anybody have any advice on fixing this?

[carnagemetal]

is there a tutorial on how to install all of this stuff?

Hi guys,

I am interested din getting a Kaimana board but I do not want to use a PS360+ or Brooks board, I want to use the stock PCB with new harnesses for each button (Utilise the old harnesses I have in my Xbox 360 TE stick)

Is this possible? I don’t really want to be soldering up the board, although I am proficient with a soldering iron, but prefer to keep things in a way I can revert to stock if I need to later (For resale or change)

Anyone know what I would have to do to achieve this or have done this themselves?

Any help welcome.

David

EDIT: You can use the Kaimana mini breakout also

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/home/1667-kaimana-mini-breakout.html

This is simple enough in the OG Kaimana, but in the mini you would have to either create a breakout board using a prototyping board, male pins and screw terminals, OR solder directly into the 20 pin header.

I am happy to buy the breakout board they sell and a Kaimana mini but how do you connect it to the buttons? do I use the original 20 pin and put it in the top of the Kaimana mini thats plugged into the mini breakout? then wire the breakout to the original TE2 PCB with a 20pin adapter?

There are no installation guides online I can see to tell me how to wire it up and draw power to the board…

[ChaoticMonk]

So the micro usb port on my Mini Kaimana seems like it’s going to break off next time I try plugging simething in. Does anybody have any advice on fixing this?

Pic?

[JRDIBBS]

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/4486-thickbox_default/kaimana-mini-breakout.jpg

Looking at the image above, the Kaimana mini sits on the 20 pin header. There is no immediate way to tell which way it goes so if @armi0024 can clear this up it would help (maybe print a number or pointer to the “primary” pin on both the KM and the breakout?. I also notice there is no label for VCC but knowing the layout on the Kaimana it should be the one above DOWN on the right side.

The terminals are mirrored so you would take all of your incoming signals (from the buttons) and connect them to one side, let’s use the labeled side. Then on the opposite side you connect the outgoing signals (to your PCB).

Now above was the base explanation but you could also have the KM at the beginning of the chain and it would also work:

BUTTONS —> KAIMANA MINI —> PCB

KAIMANA MINI <---- BUTTONS ----> PCB

Now you would have to examine a few things:

Just care about it working ? You could just CUT the harness that goes from the buttons PCB to the main PCB and do the steps above. It would look like the first diagram above.

Don’t want to affect the original harnesses? Create a harness that takes two signals and grounds per button. One set of signals/gnds goes to your PCB and the other to the KM. This would look like the second diagram i put above.

[carnagemetal]

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/4486-thickbox_default/kaimana-mini-breakout.jpg

Looking at the image above, the Kaimana mini sits on the 20 pin header. There is no immediate way to tell which way it goes so if @armi0024 can clear this up it would help (maybe print a number or pointer to the “primary” pin on both the KM and the breakout?. I also notice there is no label for VCC but knowing the layout on the Kaimana it should be the one above DOWN on the right side.

The terminals are mirrored so you would take all of your incoming signals (from the buttons) and connect them to one side, let’s use the labeled side. Then on the opposite side you connect the outgoing signals (to your PCB).

Now above was the base explanation but you could also have the KM at the beginning of the chain and it would also work:

BUTTONS —> KAIMANA MINI —> PCB

KAIMANA MINI <---- BUTTONS ----> PCB

Now you would have to examine a few things:

Just care about it working ? You could just CUT the harness that goes from the buttons PCB to the main PCB and do the steps above. It would look like the first diagram above.

Don’t want to affect the original harnesses? Create a harness that takes two signals and grounds per button. One set of signals/gnds goes to your PCB and the other to the KM. This would look like the second diagram i put above.

Thanks for the above, Typically what I thought but wanted to see diagrams or have an understanding from people who have installed it. Does the Kaimana require any power or will this draw from the harnesses from the buttons to the PCB?

Is there anywhere that has the harness for the TE2 PCB with lose worse at the end for the Terminal blocks?

I am thinking of buttons to PCB and kaimana.

[Darksakul]

The 20 pin connector includes power and ground.

[JRDIBBS]

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/4486-thickbox_default/kaimana-mini-breakout.jpg

Looking at the image above, the Kaimana mini sits on the 20 pin header. There is no immediate way to tell which way it goes so if @armi0024 can clear this up it would help (maybe print a number or pointer to the “primary” pin on both the KM and the breakout?. I also notice there is no label for VCC but knowing the layout on the Kaimana it should be the one above DOWN on the right side.

The terminals are mirrored so you would take all of your incoming signals (from the buttons) and connect them to one side, let’s use the labeled side. Then on the opposite side you connect the outgoing signals (to your PCB).

Now above was the base explanation but you could also have the KM at the beginning of the chain and it would also work:

BUTTONS —> KAIMANA MINI —> PCB

KAIMANA MINI <---- BUTTONS ----> PCB

Now you would have to examine a few things:

Just care about it working ? You could just CUT the harness that goes from the buttons PCB to the main PCB and do the steps above. It would look like the first diagram above.

Don’t want to affect the original harnesses? Create a harness that takes two signals and grounds per button. One set of signals/gnds goes to your PCB and the other to the KM. This would look like the second diagram i put above.

Thanks for the above, Typically what I thought but wanted to see diagrams or have an understanding from people who have installed it. Does the Kaimana require any power or will this draw from the harnesses from the buttons to the PCB?

Is there anywhere that has the harness for the TE2 PCB with lose worse at the end for the Terminal blocks?

I am thinking of buttons to PCB and kaimana.

Wow in all of my explanation I managed to miss Power. So you NEED to solder a wire from the main pcb usb header’s VCC and ground which you can connect to the screw in terminals VCC and GND. Again the VCC is the unlabeled pin above DOWN on the right side.

[RedTag14]

Trying to figure out an LED solution for my friend. Here’s the components of his, soon to be built, stick:

• Brook PS3/PS4 PCB without the breakout board
• 8x 30mm Pele LED rings (would use Kaimana LEDs but they are out of stock)
• Kaimana Mini Breakout (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/kaimana-led-series/1669-kaimana-mini-breakout.html)

First question, are the Pele LED rings (or even the Uila LEDs) compatible with Kaimana Mini? I’m assuming yes. xP Next, if they do work, will these Kaimana wire harnesses work with the Pele LED rings (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/home/1056-paradise-kaimana-6-wire-harness.html)? Lastly, the Kaimana Mini Breakout I linked is pictured and priced as if it includes the Kaimana Mini and the additional breakout soldered as a complete package, yet the description is the same as the breakout alone (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/home/1667-kaimana-mini-breakout.html). It’s probably an error on the website, but I’d definitely like confirmation from @armi0024, @“Jasen Hicks” or others.

Thanks in advance!

Edit-1: Maybe I answered one of my questions after looking at these (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/paradise-kaimana-led-controller-and-accessories/1057-paradise-kaimana-adapter.html)? Will I need 8 of them?

[fluffhead]

Purchased my Kaimana over a year ago but finally got mine installed over the weekend. Did the wiki get removed? I seemed to recall there being a wiki with some basic documentation for how to get started, but it seems like all there is now is the master download for the example code. Am I missing something?

I’m interested in doing this. Is the wiki down?

http://support.paradisearcadeshop.net/doku.php?id=kaimana_led_controller

can someone please address this? @SusanInParadise ? I just just spent a load of money. I don’t think a little support from Paradise is too much to ask for. Not responding to emails either.

[aszyd]

Trying to figure out an LED solution for my friend. Here’s the components of his, soon to be built, stick:

• Brook PS3/PS4 PCB without the breakout board
• 8x 30mm Pele LED rings (would use Kaimana LEDs but they are out of stock)
• Kaimana Mini Breakout (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/kaimana-led-series/1669-kaimana-mini-breakout.html)

First question, are the Pele LED rings (or even the Uila LEDs) compatible with Kaimana Mini? I’m assuming yes. xP Next, if they do work, will these Kaimana wire harnesses work with the Pele LED rings (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/home/1056-paradise-kaimana-6-wire-harness.html)? Lastly, the Kaimana Mini Breakout I linked is pictured and priced as if it includes the Kaimana Mini and the additional breakout soldered as a complete package, yet the description is the same as the breakout alone (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/home/1667-kaimana-mini-breakout.html). It’s probably an error on the website, but I’d definitely like confirmation from @armi0024, @“Jasen Hicks” or others.

Thanks in advance!

Edit-1: Maybe I answered one of my questions after looking at these (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/paradise-kaimana-led-controller-and-accessories/1057-paradise-kaimana-adapter.html)? Will I need 8 of them?

I’ve been piecing together a Pele build for Seimitsu screw-ins and it looks like this is what is needed for 8 buttons. 1x Kaimana Mini controller, 1x 12" Kaimana harness (Or 24" if you want a really long main cable), 1x 6" Kaimana harness (to connect the two rows of buttons), 6x 3" Kaimana harnesses, 8x Kaimana adapters, 8x Kaimana / Pele jumper harnesses, 8x Pele LED Rings.

My PCB solution is going to be a Brook PS3 / 4 breakout board with a Kaimana Mini on the 20 Pin of the Brook. You could probably go the other way around, as you suggested, with the Kaimana Mini breakout to a non-breakout Brook board.

Regarding the two Kaimana mini breakout board listings, one is the only the Breakout Board, if you already have a Kaimana Mini, the other is the pair of boards, Kaimana Mini + Breakout board.

Hopefully they get the 3" harnesses in soon so I can pull the trigger. I don’t feel like cutting down the 6" harnesses just to make them work.

[armi0024]

Sorry we moved servers I can get the wiki back up in a few days. Susan is trying to keep up with emails and orders but things have been a bit insane with the brook board and sf5. We have had 5 to 6 times the regular order load for 4 weeks, two full time people are helping now. I am heading into a case but if I can answer between cases later I will.

[fluffhead]

Sorry we moved servers I can get the wiki back up in a few days. Susan is trying to keep up with emails and orders but things have been a bit insane with the brook board and sf5. We have had 5 to 6 times the regular order load for 4 weeks, two full time people are helping now. I am heading into a case but if I can answer between cases later I will.

Thanks for the response. “case”? you sound like me. I’m an anesthesiologist. we call surgeries “cases”

[fluffhead]

It appears that in the original Kaimana you needed to connect VCC from zone 1 to zone 2 to supple power to the LEDs. I cannon understand that design, why wouldn’t the connection be integrated into the PCB? anyway Inwas wondering if the Kaimana mini was set up the same way. Do you need to make an extra connection to supply power to the LEDs?

[aszyd]

Pins 19 and 20 on the Mini are both VCC, so I assume that both need to be connected to power. If you are using a the 20 pin from another PCB, it should be fine. If not then you need to solder power to both.

[armi0024]

It appears that in the original Kaimana you needed to connect VCC from zone 1 to zone 2 to supple power to the LEDs. I cannon understand that design, why wouldn’t the connection be integrated into the PCB? anyway Inwas wondering if the Kaimana mini was set up the same way. Do you need to make an extra connection to supply power to the LEDs?

The reason that the original was done like this was to avoid people adding 100 leds and blowing out there expensive Xbox or Playtstation USB port… Basically a simple barrier so that people had to think before pulling the switch. The Mini we got rid of this and replaced with a fuse, which is easier, but if you blow it, the board is done.

The pin out on the mini is exactly the same as the 20 pin PS360, UFB, or Breakout and coincidentally… matches our harness. As far as connections go, basically there is a small Di and a small Do on each Kaimana J. You connect the Kaimana to your first led onto the Di side (D in) and then connect the Do (D out) to the next LED’s Di (D in) and repeat…

I will work on getting the page back up. And @fluffhead kind of like you but not nearly as smart, I just work with the bones, mostly the spine.

[fluffhead]

Ok, one more question. is there any USB pass through capability with either Kaimana mini or UFB to combine USB connections into one connector?

Very impressed @armi0024 that you do that and this at the same time.

[Reiraku]

I wonder if spine surgeons receive a lot of back pay.

Ok, I’ll leave now…

[carnagemetal]

Ok so I have started mapping out my project and have got as far as deciding the materials I am going to use to create a Breakout for th original PCB to not destroy any of the original stock parts.

Here we Go:

Basic Digram (Nothing polished but shows the general Jist)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/carnagemetal/Mobile%20Uploads/20160228_143940_zpsaqxpv1ny.jpg

I have mapped the Pins, colours and buttons on the 16 Way IDC Madcatz use of the buttons:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/carnagemetal/Mobile%20Uploads/20160228_143315_zpsuywsmxnb.jpg

i will be using a 16 way Ribbon cable with 16 way IDC’s (8 x 2) on each end to connect to an IDC to Terminal Block PCB:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/carnagemetal/_57_zpsbatcjpbp.jpg

I will be desoldering the IDC header and reversing the 16 Way IDC header on this PCB to match the Pinout for the Madcatz Stick so it will look like below:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/carnagemetal/Mobile%20Uploads/20160228_143430_zpshobzdgay.jpg

Then the Terminal Block will go to the Kaimana Mini Breakout:

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/4486-thickbox_default/kaimana-mini-breakout.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/carnagemetal/Mobile%20Uploads/20160228_143439_zpssfi1otuu.jpg

I am only illuminating the Buttons for now so I assume I don’t need to wire up all the other buttons - Can anyone verify this?

And essential reverse the process to the Second IDC to Terminal Block which will have the Madcatz original Button harness IDC in it

the chain will be Buttons > IDC/Terminal Block > Kaimana Mini/Breakout > IDC/Terminal Block > Madcatz PCB (Buttons > Kaimana > Stick PCB)

Then I need to Solder the 5V + Ground to power the Kaimana - I cannot see where on the Kaimana Mini the Power and Ground are connected to Provide power, anyone can help with this?

Anyways I think this should work - Yes, it is a roundabout way of doing it but I like to try and keep things as stock as possible in case I want to revert to original or sell the stick at a later date.

Let me know your thoughts!

EDIT*

I wonder if I could use the so simplify the breakout - Stick PCB (First IDC) < Buttons (Second IDC) > Kaimana Mini Terminal Block)

Thoughts?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/carnagemetal/_57435_zpsii7beck7.jpg

[ChaoticMonk]

I am only illuminating the Buttons for now so I assume I don’t need to wire up all the other buttons - Can anyone verify this?

Then I need to Solder the 5V + Ground to power the Kaimana - I cannot see where on the Kaimana Mini the Power and Ground are connected to Provide power, anyone can help with this?

• Verified, only need to wire up what you wish to light up
• There are 4 ground pins labeled in the pic you posted of the bottom of the breakout board. I assume VCC is the only unlabeled one (top right) but wait for confirmation.