@armi0024 Was wondering how to light up only the shaft of a stick (or more precisely, a clear shaft cover), while keeping a solid balltop, and I came upon the picture of a Neopixel ring over a mounting plate earlier in the thread.
With top mounting the stick over a wood panel, with yet a metal panel over it, the shaft hole in the case would be the only escape way for the light, I guess. Do you think it could work well? I found the thing interesting, as fewer LEDs could achieve the same, but the shaft would then cover their path in some positions: with a lot more LEDs, each needing to be less bright, this becomes much less of a problem.
Also, how would one have to plug it to a Kaimana PCB? Seems those rings are made to work with Arduinos, and take two 5V inputs (LEDs and controller), ground and data inputs, which is what is on Kaimana PCBs. Can I connect the data input to a Kaimana PCB data output, power and ground as well, load the Neopixel library on the Kaimana, and thatās it?
The NEOPIXEL ring is a great way to do this, but it will require a bit of code modification in the Kaimana ARDUINO code (no neopixel library needed).
Hereās the mechanics: To physically connect it you will need the NEOPIXEL RING and a couple of spare Kaimana Cables. Solder the 5V and GND to two Kaimana Cables, then the DATA-IN to one and DATA-OUT to the other. You plug the DATA-IN to the previous Kaimana-J and the DATA-OUT to the next Kaimana J. Or this could be the last in your string and you just omit the second cable all together (this would make coding easier by a smidge).
Ultimately, the Kaimana code treats each Kaimana J as ONE LED. So when you say light up LED 5 its literally lighting up the SIXTH Kaimana-J in the string (Remember, in coding everything starts at ZERO). The NEOPIXELS are setup so the LEDs are in series (these are the exact LEDs installed on the Kaimana-Js so it will work fine with Kaimana), so if say you have 4 Kaimana Js setup and then it connects to a NEOPIXEL RING (https://www.adafruit.com/products/1463) that just added 16 LEDs you have to consider in the coding before you even the next J to light! So if you leave the code as is, about half the pixel ring will light up and nothing down stream of it will; and it will be a bit wonky as it will light when a punch is pressed or something.
Lets presume you have the LEDs physically setup this way:
K4-K3-K2-K1 - NEOPIXEL - P1 - P2 - P3 - P4 - START - SEL - HOME
You are going to need to write in a special case to account for the 4-19 lights so they all light up together as ONE Unit. However, because we are smarter than the computer, you really only need to tell the kaimana_custom.h that joystick LED = 4 because we can use a 16 position loop to light the remaining lights in the ring and we will set P1 to be LED 20. Set total LEDs to 26 in Kaimana_custom.h
I wonāt give away what I presume to be the secret, but take a close look at void Kaimana::setLED() in the kaimana.cpp file. I bet if you mucked with that and put a special IF case there for index == LED_JOY you could have it take care of 16 LEDs on that NEOPIXEL
Say you want to keep the lights constant there, I would just set OFF and ON colors for JOYSTICK to be the same so it didnāt actually change when you actuated a switch.
Iām still needing a case, so am testing all my components in a carboard box for now, but was thinking about dedicating a second Kaimana to this, as the first one is going to be pretty much all used because of the all-buttons DS4 padhack (14 buttonsā¦ though only six are planned on top of the stick).
Will most probably go for a Brook PCB when the breakout board is available, but that wonāt change much to it. So, well, it will simplify things a lot already (LEDs would change color depending on input, but all LEDs will have the same color at a given time).
Will try to make the code simpler, so Iāll keep the loop idea in a corner of my head.
We did this coding for the Soundwave stick, actually it was tied into two neopixel rings that displayed a rotating output from a frequency analyzer. I can share this code itās actually not that bad to do. The inputs would need to be remapped, but this can be done from the section of the code that already detects joystick direction.
Hey so my Kaimana Khameleon is having a problem, the 1K LED press isnāt registering, now it doesnāt seem like a big issue, but I canāt switch to the Kaimana PCB without opening the case now because of it. The button itself is working, itās just not registering on my Kaimana. What should my first steps be for this.
I just did the multimeter check, everything on the PS360+ seems perfectly fine. I checked the continuity on the screw terminal points and the 20 pin section for it as well. I went to measure the Kaimana Khameleon and nothing really happened when I measured it. I already tried resoldering the 1K pin solder joint too and nothing really changed as well. Iāll edit this post with a pic of my soldering for it.
Edit1:i.imgur.com/giJx4yD.jpg
Edit2:I tried to solder a wire on the 1K pin on the Khameleon onto the PS360+ 1K screw terminal solder point, nothing still changed.
Sounds like a bad solder joint. If you arenāt getting connectivity between the screw terminal at the PS360+ and the K1 pin on the header of the Khameleon, thats likely the cause.
I think Iāll just save up for another Kaimana then for now. But Iāll have my friend look at it and see if he can see if thereās anything he can do/try to resolder it himself since heās more experienced than I am. Iāll edit this post orreply with pics tomorrow (hopefully) to see if you can identify the problem from there.
Purchased my Kaimana over a year ago but finally got mine installed over the weekend. Did the wiki get removed? I seemed to recall there being a wiki with some basic documentation for how to get started, but it seems like all there is now is the master download for the example code. Am I missing something?
Iām looking to wire up a Kaimana to a Sixaxis hooked up to an AXISDapter; wondering if there are any issues between the non-common ground Sixaxis and the Kaimana? Also can the battery from the Sixaxis power the Kaimana as well or would I need to hook up its own battery somehow? Thanks for any insight you guys can lend me.
Oh boy, that might be a little bit out of my league. Is there a board that exist for this kind of hack or do you think itās more along me having to create a board from scratch?
I am interested din getting a Kaimana board but I do not want to use a PS360+ or Brooks board, I want to use the stock PCB with new harnesses for each button (Utilise the old harnesses I have in my Xbox 360 TE stick)
Is this possible? I donāt really want to be soldering up the board, although I am proficient with a soldering iron, but prefer to keep things in a way I can revert to stock if I need to later (For resale or change)
Anyone know what I would have to do to achieve this or have done this themselves?
If the Kaimana Chameleon is attached to the PS360+ or Broosk Universal Fight Board via itās 20 pin connector, you are free to use the screw terminals for what ever else you want.
This is simple enough in the OG Kaimana, but in the mini you would have to either create a breakout board using a prototyping board, male pins and screw terminals, OR solder directly into the 20 pin header.
