So I have a couple new cases to work on over the next few weeks. One is unfinished and the other needs a refinish (strip and paint).
There are tons of youtube vids out there for painting how-to but thought I might throw it out there to see if folks would like a detailed vid that directly applies to sticks.
I have been painting for many years and had quite a few folks ask how I got my results… when I tell them that I use spay cans they never believe me…
Basically it’s all about prep and finishing and more finishing… the actual painting takes the least amount of time. Can also include tips on how to fix flaws and other issues.
If there seems to be an interest I will record the tut starting this weekend, and begin the write up to include along with it.
Not the best pic but this was a refinish… came out glass smooth and no orange peel.
Materials matter in the prep. not so much on paint and finish. However longevity comes into play. You CAN paint plastic like wood but you will have issues later with peeling/cracking and scratching (hence the vinyl dye preference) . Metal is (IMO) the easiest… other materials can be covered too… I will add in some stuff that could help with that.
Using Vinyl dye like what ED said would sidestep the issue completely.
And I used vinyl dye before, stuff great on untreated plastics.
other wise you need to sand and primer before you paint (almost like any material)
the right primer allows the paint to bite into the material and make a good bond.
After researching vinyl dye, I’m excited to try it. Now I have this strange desire to paint every piece of plastic in my apartment. I think my 360 will be my first victim.
Started the cases today. 3 hours of sanding are really only a minute of video lol… it will take a little while to complete because paint cure times are the limiting factor once I start doing it.
I think it would be a really good thing to have a nice, detailed video series on painting up.
I don’t have problems painting plastic, you really have to scuff it good to give primer something to stick to and then paint over that, and you HAVE to clear coat no matter what, and it (the clear) has to seal the entire housing otherwise it will be prone to peeling.
Also, I’m not sure vinyl dye really exists anymore. People have reported even VHT is now peeling and not truly penetrating, so who knows. Unless you’re willing to spend money, you will most likely not be buying a real vinyl dye anytime soon in a rattle can, the real stuff isn’t sold that way anymore from what I’ve read.
Are you going to go over the best type of spray paint, and some of the things to watch out for when using other types? I left something plastic(or maybe rubber) on top of a tool I’d spray painted once(well after the cure time), and it fused itself to the spray paint after a while. I didn’t know that could happen. I think it was some regular Rustoleum or Krylon.
If something sticks to paint after it’s dried then it hasn’t fully cured. A full cure can take up to a month after it dries to the touch. Just depends on the paint. Some paints are softer and will blemish easier, too.
I have a QCF Gaming case I’ve been meaning to paint, but I don’t know much about painting wood, so I’m all for a useful tutorial vid. I just want to make some use for this thing already, so please cover a list of stuff to buy this kind of wood.
Doesn’t curing time depend on the temperature and humidity of the surroundings? If so then how can one reliably “time” their subsequent coats? Its 45 degrees and raining by me. That will take longer to cure than someone who lives where its 80 degrees and dry.
But if your gonna make a video series then best of luck with it.
I would certainly be interested in a guide that includes good staining technique (with proper sealing), as I’m interested in possibly building a custom stick in the coming year (I already have all parts except the buttons). In doing so, I might just buy a DIY case from Foe Hammer and finish it myself…
I mean, I COULD ask Shep to do it for me, but I would personally be more satisfied if I did the work myself… Heck - if I had the time and equipment, I’d try to build the case myself, but I think I’ll leave that to the Pros, lol.
@shinjigohan curing and drying are two totally different things. Coats are also a completely separate topic. You coat every 15 mins or so or whatever the can says. In 2 hours it’s usually dry to the touch, but not cured. In 2 weeks to a month it should be cured or near fully cured.
Clear coats are similar in that aspect to. You have coat time, dry time, and cure time. Coats are usually done every two hours for a poly base such as polyacrylic or polyurethane. Dry time is usually 24 hours to being able to handle it. Then it takes about 2 weeks to cure.
