I don’t work with wood, but I want you to have to do work, so I’m interested. (I AM actually interested in learning, even if I might not ever be able to use it).
Plus, again, I want you to have to do work lol.
This tutorial is a great idea. Is this going to be based purely on aerosoles? There are alot more options when it comes to industrial paints ie. Paint gun/compressor setup.
Painting plastics can be tricky but using special plastic primers are absolutely mandatory. In aerosole form I believe there is specific primers that bite into the plastic for a really good bond. Regular primer wont really cut it. In industrial/automotive paints you can use plastic primer which is clear like water and is abit like an etch primer. You give the surface a certain wetness of coat and then after a set time you spray it with your primer.
As for flexibility in paint, again there are products/additives available in industrial/auto paints. Not too sure about aerosoles but im sure it can be created from any good automotive paint shop.
A plasticiser additive can be added to the primer and clear coats (never base coats as they are already very thin film) and this make the finish very flexible. I remember I painted my mk2 vw golf dash board like that and as some of you will know its quite spongey. So I added a little more of this additive and once I finished the paint job it never cracked, peeled or anything. Even when I pressed down really hard on the dash it would just bounce right back. Again, if your using aerosole im sure you can request your autopaint store to add some into the mix.
The correct answer to any “should I make a tutorial” thread is “Nike”.
In other words, just do it.
sooooo the tutorial still in the works?
Yup. It’s too humid here to spray at the moment
It’s the same way here in Florida as well 
Just waiting on the tut before I start anyway.
I learned from this thread
[forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/43683/tutorial-prepping-and-painting-mdf-56k-warning](Tutorial:Prepping and Painting MDF (56k warning)
But it looks like most of the images no longer work.
It resulted in this paint job (black is no fun!):
that art looks SIK with the black
but 8 button is no doge… but the black makes up for it to some extent
The stick wasn’t for me. Art was made by customer. My dad made the case and I painted and did all the electronics.
The one thing I’m having trouble with is painting with 2 different colors 
like a blue primary with white stripes on a case. Is it difficult painting that way?
thought about using tape to cover up the areas you dont want to tape? i guess its standard procedure, but idk
If the paint is properly dried, as it should be before wet sanding you should have no issues. The water is just to prevent the sandpaper from biting into the paint making a smooth surface. If the paint is dry then it wont seep at all.
Any updates?
actually in the middle of writing the companion to the vid… here is a snippet:
Fightstick painting
After years of painting I wanted to put together something for the fighting game community. More often than not, I see good sticks that could have been GREAT if a few extra steps were taken in the process. This guide and accompanying video will cover the basics, materials you will need, and some pointers and tips that are case painting specific.
The subject covered will be:
- Materials
- Prep and work area
- Primer
- Paint
- Clearcoat
- Polishing/finishing
When you see this symbol, pay particularly close attention as it will contain something very important and relevant to the step at hand.
**Materials: **
So you have a nice unfinished case from a custom builder, or perhaps you have made one of your own and you want to paint it. May you have a case that’s seen better days and want to refinish it. First thing you need to do is plan out how you want it to look. Before you just start grabbing random cans of paint off the shelves, there are a few things to consider.
Not all paints are the same and many may not be compatible. A general rule of thumb is to use the same manufacturer for your primer and paints. Your clearcoat doesn’t matter as much BUT do read the cans and make sure that there isn’t a particular type it won’t work with. My personal preference is to use Rustoleum brands. They may not have the colors you may be looking for so don’t rule out heading to your local automotive store for more color choices to include some specialty paints like Mirage Color changing paint.
Primer:
First things first though… you will want a primer. Generally there are 3 basic colors. Black, white, and gray. If you are painting dark colors, stick with black or gray, if you are doing lighter colors then use white. If you are using a combination of contrasting colors than use gray. Read the can and make sure that you can sand it. Generally 1-2 cans will cover a case well.
Color:
Once you have your primer color picked out, then get your colors. The cap color is a basic idea what it will look like but don’t expect it to be exact. At places like Loews they usually have a small testing area that you can shoot a small spot on and see how it looks. I will pick up at least 2 cans of color to ensure the case gets a good uniform coat.
Clearcoat:
For the clearcoat, I strictly use rustoleum Crystal Clear Gloss Enamel. After trial and error this is my go-to because it sprays well, is resistant to running, provides a great hard finish and looks amazing. If you are first starting out, get 3 cans in case you need to redo something. With experience 1-2 cans is all you would need.
At this point, you should have about 6-8 cans of spray and spent about $40. Painting is not cheap!
Sandpaper:
Sandpaper is KEY to a proper finish. You should pick up the following grits at least: 220 (for the bare wood, 320 (for LIGHT sanding in between coats if needed) and for the finish/clearcoat: 1000, 2000, and 3000 grits. You may not be able to find the high grits at a normal home improvement store. Any chain auto store should have them though.
Sanding Block:
I usually get a sanding sponge block (320) that I also use as my sanding block. If you do this make sure the low grit doesn’t get exposed when you are doing your finish or it WILL scratch and set you back. You can buy the rubber ones and not have to worry about this as well.
Meguiars Polishing Compound
After you are all done sanding you will need this to polish your clearcoat. This may be the last step and look good enough for you, if you see fine swirls in the clear then grab some Meguiars Ultimate Polish for a perfect finish.
Other Materials:
Soft microfiber towels, paper towels, facemask, rubber gloves (optional), painters masking tape.
Here are a couple of pics of my stick. The second one is after the last coat. There are a few imperfections that I could sand out once it drys, but if you aren’t staring at it you prob wouldn’t notice. Prob be done in a few days. I’ll make sure to post pics of the final product then.
I would just like to add my two cents here as well. Even though this was my first time painting I see what I could have done differently to make it look even better.
1.) Priming and sanding is the most important step.
2.) Don’t be afraid to make mistakes (thats what sand paper is for). Believe me, the whole right side in the second pic looked like shit yesterday and now I can see my reflection in it. I would recommend putting on a nice think coat after priming and then waiting about 12 hours and then sanding it down with some 320 and then doing the last two coats.
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Thanks for the help Ed.
And this gentlemen… is why I am doing the video for yall… you be the judge… just finished this tonight:
it looks a lot better afterwards, but the colours are weird
its Mirage color changing paint. It goes from blue to red depending on how the light hits it. In bright light it changes all crazy.
I went with mirage because I am putting a Kaimana LED board in it… if you notice the top is THICK plexi and it is beveled around the buttons and edges… this thing is gonna glow all crazy when done and I want the paint to match it.
How you see it now (see through) is also how its going to look after wired. I am doing a custom stealth wiring job so it will look like everything is floating in the case with hardly any wires visible.
It’s chameleon paint @dej. It changes from blue to purple in different lights. I think FoeHammer actually posted pics on their FB this morning or last night. It looks a LOT better now.
That Flash stick is looking good @Eddie_Dominguez