if you’re going to have 2 separate USB cables coming out of the case, sure, but otherwise no. If you’re using an Imp, the USB cable gets soldered to it. But the D+ and D- connection between the Imp and the cthulhu should come from the columns. ( I know you want 2 cables from the post above, but I need to be clear or some jackhole will missread this 2 years from now.)
Sareturu doesn’t want to dualmod, though - he’s essentially just “switching” his 360 TE to a PS3 TE. Since there’s already a jack, though, it’ll probably be better to make use of it rather than cutting and rewiring the 360 cable to the Cthulhu. Simpler and easier, and no need to solder.
No worries, I understand that people often take things out of context and call them out on it o_o
Thanks for the quick help then :tup: It helped alot 
I might just simply connect the new usb cable onto the jack and use that one to connect onto my pc/ps3. Will be the easiest way, since it was waaaaay too long since i soldered something and im kinda scared of breaking my TE/Cthulhu 
The most simple solution is the best for me, as long it does work 
is there a certain reason why you use 30 AWG Kynar wire, as opposed to other gauges? i’m guessing it’s because of a resistance thing with the copper, but I’m just making sure before I do stuffs.
lots of people use other gauges. I think he suggested 30 awg because a lot of the points on the madcatz pcb are small and close together, so lighter gauge wire makes the job easier for lots of people.
Just finished this mod last night, everything seems to be working fine. But I’ve only tested both the Cthulhu and 360 functions on the PC for like 10 minutes. Was way too tired to put an SF4 session in. Thanks a lot, bomberman and toodles for all the help.
This would have been WAY easier without the stupid hotglue MadCatz used. I couldn’t pull out one of the harness cables and had to hold the damn PCB in awkward ways to solder it.
30 awg definitely helps, since the points on the MadCatz PCB are pretty damn small. I managed to put in a 24 awg stranded for the 5V line, though. I was pretty worried about using such a thin wire for power, so glad that the soldering there worked. I also took the easy way out and only soldered the following points on the MadCatz PCB: 4 stick directions, ground, 5V, D+, D-, Guide, RS switch. All the buttons and an extra ground was soldered on to the quick disconnects on MadCatz’ terminal strip. Worked out pretty well.
Soldering the USB cable to the Imp was kind of a pain as well, I wish there were more spread out alternate soldering points on it. The USB jack holes was really cutting it close, in terms of making the 4 cables touch. I made sure they didn’t though. I’ll give it a proper test this afternoon, but everything looks good so far. Thanks, guys!
Hi. Simple question. Most of the talk I see is for modding TE and SE sticks with the Imp. Is this thing also intended for custom sticks?
I have a MAS stick with an existing MC config. I’d like to throw a 360 PCB in there for one more system. But I can’t wrap my head about the wiring.
Thanks for any help.
CaptainProton, this procedure is similar to what you’d do with any stick that uses a common ground PCB. I can’t tell you whether or not the MAS stick is common ground. Note that the 360 PCB would need to be common ground as well (most Madcatz PCBs are, but you need to be sure), and that special procedures would be needed to make the 360 PCB’s trigger buttons function properly. So yeah, you’d be better off referring to a general dual-PCB guide in the end.
Hi Bomberman, yes, the MAS is common ground. I’m also utilizing a common ground Mad Catz game pad. Here’s my exact PCB model:
The MAS button wires go to terminal points, and then my wires are routed to the MC board to a RJ-45 jack output (full eight wire pin out on row 1).
I’m confused if my 360 PCB wires should be spliced into the terminal points, or be connected directly to the MC and then utilize the IMP. The TE pcb throws me off because it is getting button data from the cable ribbons already in place. Then I see the wiring routing according to your guide.
I’m in the same boat as Sareturu, I believe. I own a 360 stick and want to make it into a PS3 stick, and I have a MC Cthulhu. So I just cut the USB cord inside the stick and rewire the colors to the corresponding input on the Cthulhu? Then run another cord from the Cthulhu to the PS3?
I haven’t had the chance to test, but I get the impression my dilemma is that I have to double wire each contact point on my 360 pad. One wire to the terminal strip and one to the MC board. I believe this is similar to modding an existing TE board as it has those ribbon strips to the stick buttons already in place.
Again, I’m no pro. I’ll give it a crack soon and see if I can get this routing going.
Hey, finished my SE Dual Mod a couple nights ago (did the before mentioned variant of tying the USB cable into the RJ45 port as well) and couldn’t be happier. One stick to pretty much play every fighter I own on is awesome beyond words. 
Oh, anyway. The whole reason I’m posting here is to thank you guys for the amazing guides and instruction. You’ve really done a great job of making the instructions friendly and understandable. Thanks for everything! =D
Hey guys I had my TE dual modded with the cthulhu + IMP. Everything was working fine for 3 months than all of a suddent last night, I held down on the stick and its registering as up. 10 mins later its bak to normal. Has anyone had this issue with the dual moded TE stick before?
I haven’t had that specific problem, but once ‘left’ was registering kind of glitchy. It wouldn’t register at the point of the switch fully engaging and a little past that point, but if I moved it back even further it would…it did that off and on for a few min, and then I never had it happen again… weird stuff.
The most likely cause is the USB data wires got jostled slightly. If it persists, try manually separating them and making sure they’re secure. You could also check the wires connecting to the directions on the TE PCB and make sure they’re not touching.
For those of you installing this into a TE stick, what did you use to mount the Cthulhu? I’ve seen some pics of other sticks using this L-shaped plastic joint, but at Home Depot today, no one knew what the hell I was talking about lol…
The easiest place is right here, using the TE’s own screws:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h201/eastx/arcade%20sticks/testickcthulhuimpmounted.jpg
Huge thanks to bomberman as well as everyone else who answered/put up with my noob question. Finished the mod at 1:00am and got it to work!! WOOT!
The only problem I’m having is: what do I do if, while playing on PS3, the guide button goes haywire? At some spans of time, everything works fine, and then all of a sudden, the XMB will start to appear/disappear rapidly. I’ve checked the connection on the TE PCB, and even re-soldered it, after clipping the end. And I checked the connection on the screw terminal, and that seems fine too. Any suggestions?
Other that though, everything else works great. Again, mad props to bomberman and everyone who contributed to this thread.
just off the top of my head, the connection might be fine as you saw, but some exposed part of hte wire may be contacting some other point on the board/another wire, etc. I’d check to make sure that the exposted part near the joint isn’t able to come in contact with any other point, and that the insulated part of the wire wasn’t accidentally stripped somewhere and coming in contact with the board other wires etc.
When I do mine, I always put some hot glue on there to cover the joins and exposed part of the wire just to make sure everything stays put and doesn’t snap off or come in contact with other parts of the board.
I actually remembered that the guide button from the TE PCB went to the guide on the IMP. Originally, the connection I made on the TE PCB looked like some of the exposed wire was touching another part of the PCB (I think it was another joint, or a resistor or something), so I re-soldered it after trimming the end a bit.
Then I checked the connection the IMP. The joint didn’t look as solid as my other ones, so I re-soldered that one to. Then when I tried to test it in Windows (CP-> game controllers), the Cthulhu (PS3 only, pre-assembled, RS-switch) will flash once, but won’t be recognized. And in 360 mode, the Xbox guide button stays fully lit (full circle), but isn’t recognized either. I’ve been flipping through past pages of the thread, and it seems like people have had the same “not-recognized” problem, but the stick won’t even be powered (i.e. no green light). So I thought my issue was a little different, since neither board was recognized, but my light still comes on.
What’s strange is that aside from the crazy XMB off-and-on action last night on PS3, everything worked fine.
EDIT: At the moment, I don’t have a multimeter, so I couldn’t run through the troubleshoot.
EDIT 2: Is there a way to “extend” the white/green/red/black lines coming out of the TE’s USB cable? I was having issues connecting the USB to the IMP because threaded wire is a pain, and I totally forgot about tinning it first. I thought about stripping the cable a little bit further down but ran into some funky insulation and chickened out lol…