nice thanks
I ordered from http://modchipman.com and can’t wait to install.
Thanks.
man, to me it wasn’t specifically the soldering that was a pain in the ass, but cutting and then stripping the ends of all those wires, haha. I’d really like to do a really clean job on my next one like that one guy who glued the boards together, cut his wires to the exact perfect length, and glued the wires together to make them look like ribon cable…but man, I bet it took sooo long to get it looking so perfect!
one question- is “hot glue” the same thing as glue gun glue? Cuz when I use a glue gun, I kind of just do little blobs, but that wire job he did is like you can’t even tell there’s glue on it… it really looks like factory ribon cable or something…
is there a requirement on the DPDT switch for this mod?
like is there a certain AMP requirement?
for example, will this one do ? its got a 6A/125V AC spec.
http://www.thesource.ca/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Switches+Switches&product=2750636
That’s the one I used, but I got mine at Radio Shack.
radioshack canada is replaced by the source now 
That’s a proper troubleshooting step right there. When I plugged mine in directly and it worked, but not through the imp that told me something was wrong with one of the data wires. First place I would look.
is there anything wrong with just using glue gun to hot glue down the cthulu PCB inside the TE box?
idk, but that’s what I did. I had it taped down during testing to make sure everything worked, and when I was satisfied I put some hot glue on my solder joints (don’t know if it was necessary but that 30awg wire just looks so brittle, lol), and then I glued the cthulhu in place. For the imp, I used the screwe on the left sice of the button terminal strip after seeing someone else in the thread who did that (thanks for the idea to whoever that was 
)
seriously? cuz i have got just abt everything else figured out now cept for how to hold the cthulu down
any problems with it? i am afraid its not strong enough if i pound on the stick too much/too hard while playing
I don’t know I haven’t opened it up since, but if it ever comes loose I’m guessing it will be more as a result of age of the glue than moving the stick around. Putting direct force on the board to test it is way more force than it will get by just having the stick jostle around, so I think it will be cool.
man, I don’t know if I’ve ever had a good reason to use the word “jostle” before… score 1 for me?
horray? lol
how come the V point on the cthulu board isn’t wired up to anything? the guide says V1 should be wired.
Bomberman changed it later based on toodles recommendation so that way it’s protected by a diode from a multi cable input.
For mounting the Cthulhu in the TE, I used 2 small zip ties. I went through 1 exsisting hole and drilled 2 new ones.
so where exactly is the power from IMP board connected to? V3?
V1–>imp that’s what you want.
thats what i meant. In the diagram i quoted from the guide, V1 isn’t soldered.
From the 1st page…Bomberman didn’t originally have the V1-> IMP, probably had Madcatz pcb USB vcc & ground going to the IMP.
“Looks great. One thing I might want to point out is that the diodes on the MC have been bypassed by the USB cable; there is no protection if someone pulls a stupid and plugs it into two consoles at once. The VCC from the RJ45 connection does go through a diode, but the USB cable one doesn’t. What I’d suggest you do is have the wire going from the VCC point on the Imp going to row 2 column V on the imp, so it goes through the other black diode. I can’t tell where the specific wires are going, but the 360 pcb should be getting its power from the VCC screw terminal point on the Cthulhu. Let me know if that doesn’t make sense.”-Toodles
"Changed the text of the guide to accommodate Toodles’ suggestion. "-Bomberman
I am telling you dude- if you just follow the diagram he linked to (not the one you quoted, but the 4 links that link to wiring diagrams for the 4 situations (ps3 only se/te, MC se/te), and just wire everything as it says, you will be good. Just pick the one that is your situation, wire it as it says, done.
can i switch the data 1(+ and -) and data 2(+ and -) signals on any of the diagrams ?
From the 1st page…
“If you are installing an MC Cthulhu rather than a PS3-only Cthulhu, connect the 360 SE PCB’s D+ and D- points to the Imp’s 2D+ and 2D- points. The MC Cthulhu’s D+ and D- wires should connect to the Imp’s 1D+ and 1D- points.
However, if you installed a PS3-only Cthulhu, feel free to connect the 360 data wires to the Imp’s 1-data points and the Cthulhu’s data wires to the Imp’s 2-data points. The Imp will switch to whichever console’s data wires are connected to the 1-data points by default. You must hold the Guide/Home button when inserting the stick’s USB cable into the console in order to switch to the system that is wired to the Imp’s 2-data points. Does that make sense?”-Bomberman
You can switch the data lines…it’s just not recommended on the MC version because you have no diode protection from Cthulhu if you accidentally plug in more than one cable.
The PS3 only Cthulhu doesn’t matter because there will only be one USB cable when used with an IMP.
example:
IMP
2 D+ =Cthulhu
2 D- = Cthulhu
1 D+ =360 board
1 D- =360 board