Dude, using an imp isn’t using a shortcut at all. It’s exactly the same amount of soldering work that using a DPDT switch is. The Imp requires 1 extra wire, actually (for Guide or Right Switch).
If you’re deadset on drilling a hole in your case, you can use my wiring diagrams and just run the data wires for each console to one side of the DPDT switch and have the DPDT switch’s output wires go to the USB cable. Omit the wire going from the Right Stick solder point on the SE/TE PCB, of course.
I noticed that in toodles’ pics he chose to use the pads on the top side (and a few on the bottom) for the direction/button inputs as opposed to wiring directly to the underside of the pins. It looks like this might be easier as there appears to be more space to solder and avoid accidentally bridging 2 solder joints. Is there any other reason to do/avoid doing it that way, or anything to look out for?
I just think it’s cleaner to have all the wires on one side, and you’re already soldering a bunch of points next to each other when you do the buttons. But if you want to use alternate soldering points, feel free to do so.
cool, I think you’re right about it being cleaner, I decided to go ahead and do it that way. I did decide to use the A-H, 1-9 connections as opposed to the labeled ones around the edges of cuz I thought that would be cleaner too.
I have to say, I’m not new to soldering, but for some reason getting the damn solder to stick to the 30awg wire and existing direction/button joints on the 360 pcb was a pain in the ass. I’ve used 30awg wire before, but not with so many connections, so it made me a little bit nervous moving it around after i was done, didn’t want to snap any of the connections after going through all that work, haha.
I put shortcut in quotation marks because I know it’s not really a shortcut. What I meant was that I want to learn how to do it the natural way so that if I am working on another project and can not use the IMP board, I will still know what to do. The IMP was made specifically for the purpose of this mod. But what if I am doing something else??? I’d actually like to learn how this works. Never done soldering or anything of the like before. Thx for the help.
Well, if you’re doing another mod that involves 2 PCBs with USB cables, the Imp will always be the best solution for switching between them, IMO. You wouldn’t use any kind of switch to toggle between different PCBs if they did not use the same kind of cable. But it doesn’t hurt to know how to use a DPDT switch in general.
yes, give me that -rep!!!
You do know there is a rep cooldown right? You can’t be repped or negged by the same person until he’s done a minimum of other negs and reps. Stop saying this stuff. If you really want to fill your red bar, pay for premium. You get all sorts of access to that sort of thing. You even shorten the cooldown I believe. So support the forum or something if you’re so hungry for red. lol
i did it for the children.
stickz
Congrats on the sticky!
I did it for The Rock.
Thanks Markman!!! I’ll continue to improve the guide and support the thread. 
I thought I saw a pic of someone that mounted the neutrik jack to the left of the start/sel buttons on the TE, but now I can’t find it anymore. Some people here were discussing whether or not it would work because of how deep the neutrik jack is, and the fact that there’s a plastic post behind that area for the bottom screws. I’m wondering if it would work if you just cut that plastic post off ( I dont’ think losing one screw would be such a big deal).
I’d rather do that than using the select button and re-routing as one person suggested. Has anyone else done it this way?
Can I mod my PS3 cthulu later on to be a MC one?
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=162026
"MC Cthulhu Upgrade Chip and diodes: $12"
grats on the sticky bomberman!!!
It’s definitely worth it, i’m now on my forth TE that im’ doing
edit: just finished the 4th successful dual mod, the method you have listed for the ps3 only cthulhu where the vcc is in the 3rd row… that doesn’t work, second ps3 only second one with the power prob, i have to put the power on the vcc section of the cthulhu to the vcc of the imp
Thanks Caesar and friends. 
Toodles, for the PS3-only Cthulhu, my diagrams have the #3 spot providing power to the Imp. Could that be a mistake?
Well, the current will be going from the cable to the Imp to the Cthulhu, so really the Imp is providing power to the cthulhu. COnnecting the IMp’s VCC point to row 3 column V is fine, just make sure to jumper the #3 diode,
Toodles,
what do you mean by “make sure to jumper the #3 diode?”
That’s what I thought… I need to just make the diagram so that the VCC goes from a different point on the Cthulhu.
Caesar, that means you would stick a wire on the Cthulhu that connects both points where the # 3 diode would be. If you don’t feel like doing that, just run the power wire from the Cthulhu’s USB 5 V point, or an extra wire from its VCC point.