I used the SNES Super advantage when I was little and it sucked so bad I actually thought every home joystick sucked balls until I played on a madcatz TE haha (even though I played in arcades on HAPP and they were good I just thought home ones are shit, so I feel your pain.
True dat. I, however, look at blog posts as journal entries to enjoy connecting with the authors inner voice/dialogue. I have a BAA in Journalism and tend to reserve personal ārulesetsā for specific mediums. I follow your position though. I wonder if blogs are now generally held to higher standards since the majority of information content nowadays is delivered in that manner?
And to elaborate on the spring swap, I bought this pack of replacement springs for four dollars at Home Depot.
I used the four lightest weight springs (stacked) that fit the diameter of the stick assembly. Iām no lap player (My VLX Diamond is a biiiiiit hefty), but this new, lightweight, modified stick changes that. If not across the board, at least for use on I:GAU. As I experiment further, Iāll keep anybody that may be interested updated.
Hi, question for the people already tinkering with this. I have a Paradise LED joystick I want to swap in, but it needs a 5v power source. I saw the ground cable, but is there a 5v point? Or can i piggy back it to one of the power wires going to the buttons?
There are no vibrating motors. In games that has vibration, itāll turn on the LEDās which has 2 options as stated in the first post of this thread (always on & pulse aka when you get hit). You can turn on the LEDās to always on (3-way switch on the arcade stick) regardless if the vibration option (in game) is turned on or off. The only stick thatās still in production (I think) that has vibrating motors is this one:
so new member here, i got the battleedition of injustice, and was wondering did everyone who got it was the detachable cord in the box i cantā seem to find mine. Iāve looked allover for it in the box and every nook and crany on the stick itself.
I am not sure but I believe the cable is a mini USB which should be the same cable the PS3 controllers use to charge. if you have one laying around you could use that in the interim until you find yours.
Mine was the first thing atop the cardboard inside of the box. As Seth said, you can try any other standard mini USB cord, but the hole is quite recessed and it may be difficult. I might add that the ten foot cable is way rad. I have another that came with my MK Klassic controller that will probably fit, but I donāt want to risk it. I purchased a WiiU Pro controller and tried charging a dualshock 3 once⦠It ended badly.
Just kidding. The LED PCB you see is from one of my buttons. Due to focusattackās lightning fast shipping, I was able to trade my Qanba switches for Sanwa ones. In the process, I found that one of my PCBās was damaged. Now, mind you, I didnāt do it. It was damaged before I got to it. The cool thing is that, even in this broken state, the PCB still works! I was afraid that maybe just one of the LEDās would be working due to the break, but, near as I can tell, this button is not in any way less bright than itās non-broken brothers.
Now, Iām not trying to say that we can just break these suckers with reckless abandon, but it seems that we do have some breathing room when removing them.
As for my the mod. The buttons with the new switches are A DREAM! The joystick, however, has some issues. I installed JLF parts for everything except the main plastic base (because the JLF one doesnāt have room for the LEDs) and added one of paradiseās circle gates (I like circle gates). Once I started using it, I noticed that diagonals were particularly hard to hit. I switched it to an octo gate and it made it better, but there was definitely still some trouble with those diagonals. Maybe thereās a reason the Qanba square gate is smaller than the Sanwa.
Anyway, I may try to mod the Sanwa base to allow for the PCB at a later time. For now, though, the stick will just have to keep its octo gate.
When i did open it all that was inside was just the game and fight stickā¦they didāt stick the usb cord to the top like yours tempted on tryingt mod it to fit a normal micro (Bought one and its to big to fit) or return it, and trade it in for another one⦠cause after searching the house Iām almost certain it never came with one.
The main problem with the JLFās base is that it doesnāt have the indentations of the Qanba base. However, when I compared the two bases, I noticed that, along with the indentations, the Qanba base is taller too.
I figured, all I needed to do was raise the base off of the plate enough to allow clearance for the PCB and drill new holes for to keep the PCB in place.
The nuts are just crazy glued in place. (NOTE: I put them in the wrong place in this image and had to re-do it. The CORRECT ORIENTATION is in the last image)
And presto! A full JLF! (EDIT: I ended up adding some plastic spacers where the center holes are because didnāt like that there was basically empty space between the mounting plate and the base at the points where it screws in. Spacers are not shown in the image. I made them by just sanding down the ends of 4 quick disconnects until they were the same height as the nuts that I used.)
You can always get a Power Source from the 5 volt line in the USB connector. You could piggy back off one of the existing LED button or stickās LED Power lines. I say connect from the Main PCB and not from the wiring going to the buttons them selves.
Mine is mega dialed. You should seriously give these stacked Home Depot springs a try. The gauge of the metal is smaller, therefore keeping it very smooth in spite of the stack. I originally replaced everything but the black Qanba main plastic base assembly with jlf parts (out of my vlx diamond). I swapped in a similarly-sized Paradise Arcade metal actuator, but then decided to try the one inside of the jlf. THEN, I noticed the qanba actuator was ever-so-slightly different, so I popped it in alongside the qanba restrictor. Everything works great. The PDP black bat top fits on great and feels awesome. Played on it for a day, then when I opened it again to tighten up, I felt the urge to try a Sanwa ball top, dustcover, and shaft cover set. It is lovely. Works like a charm. I feel like Iām cheating when I play now. Itās that good to me. Itās a particularly accessible idea because you can change the number of springs to fit your preference. Thanks to you guys for the updates. Next up, I think Iām going to try this Paradise Arcade short throw jlf shaft in there and see how it feels for at least a momentā¦
I am actually going to mod 2 Injustice sticks, one mine is is full Seimitsu and my friends is getting a Sanwa part swaps for the joystick and Sanwa SW-68 Button Micro Switch swamp for the buttons.
I will document and compare both mods once I am done for your educational pleasure.
If for some reason I wanted to change the led behavior, can the led switch on the back of the case be repurposed for use with any of the available led controllers out there?