I was thinking of throwing in a fgwidget… But the switch to go from one to another is interesting… Need to open mine up and see… It may be possible, but likely you can have just one or the other.
I was just hopin for all off, all on, and pulse being whatever you set up the led controller to do.
I sent an email to pdp support, in case they could help provide the artwork. I’ll try emailing sales if they don’t respond.
well the thing is, with what you are describing you will need to disable the stock controller when the added controller is enabled… that may be entirely possible, since the switch already does that in off mode and sorta in pulse… the more I think of it, this may be doable… but it may require an added switch… gonna look in the morning and see what may be possible 
I was thinking of gutting out the stock PCB all together and planting in a PS360+ this time, and use a resistor array and a switch for the LEDs.
I would love to see that (the resister array) that would be a cool project
I havent decided on some things yet but some things I know I need is feet and weight… perhaps its just mine, but my stick doesnt sit perfectly flat on a hard surface. The weight is too light so I will be making a trip to home depot for some epoxy resin and then pick up some BB’s for the bottom panel.
internally I am not sure yet… stick has gotta go tho… its pretty bad feeling to me.
the way I see it, it will be a nice distraction between projects… worth the 90 bux to me at least. next stick I am working on should be good… buddy wants a stick in the spirit of a Lamborghini reventon… oh lawd…
Did someone say homework?
No ™s there and the only ® is the Mad Catz logo.
The box uses “Arcade Fightstick™”, but the stick itself doesn’t. And “Fightstick” isn’t a registered trademark (in the U.S. at least).
Since PDP has and continues to use “Fight Stick” it probably wouldn’t be possible to claim “Fightstick” as a trademark at this point.
By a resistor array I just mean a ether a row of resistors, one for each LED or something like this https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10855
so I opened it up today and tinkered a bit.
Added case feet (trimmed a small bit of the foam and they sit flush)
Swapped out the stick parts for JLF (except the plastic base)… and added octogate and a stacked another spring.
Swapped out all the switches for sanwa too. All around feels MUCH better and solid on a hard surface too. Just needs weight which I will get the stuff tomorrow for.
Taking out the LED’s was easy. A small precision flathead is all you need. (not trying to insult anyones intelligence here… just wanted to share for those that may not be sure how)
place the flathead here, push down and slowly twist so the screwdriver tip nudges the the pcb up away from the tabs…do this until the PCB moves almost off the tab. Then do the other side getting it just past the tab and then do the rest of the side you started on.
Swap the switch and then to put them back, place your fingernail inside the button, and push down on the tab like this.
What someone needs to do, (I been just too lazy and need to do this) is scan the stock art and check the board is it is common ground.
A friend of mine said the front plastic piece broke off already
I sent an request to pdp support, but have not gotten a reply, nor can i actually log into support anymore. Very annoying. I’ll try resending it.
Considering all the work + parts, this stick does not seem worth it.
I checked yesterday with a multimeter and the ps3 seems to be common ground
I got the zombie DLC, Red Son DLC, 52 DLC all on separate sheets.
But the Zombie costumes aren’t showing up in my game yet for some reason. That being said, my game was shrink wrapped and the other DLC pages were shoved into the box.
As much as I love the stock buttons, I am not a fan of Sanwa switches so I’m going to opt out for Seimitsu skeletons. Problem now is, I can’t use the LED boards anymore. I’ll try to hot glue them to the bottom of the button on the exterior to see if the lighting works… If not I’ll opt out some cash for Pele LED rings from Paradise Arcade. If I go for the LED rings, I’ll see if I can cut the per-existing LED power cables to provide the rings power and ground. Question is, is the already hooked up to previous resistors that might exist on the LED control board (you know there is On/Off/Pulse)? is it a 5V line?\
Also I’m going to see if I can get an LED balltop working at the same as the LEDs that exist on the stock stick. The idea of having both the Balltop lit up as well as the dust washer is quite attractive.
EDIT - Sorry guys the scanner is working right, it cut off the left side of the image.
Awesome. Is yours the PS3 or Xbox 360 version?
You did good
Am I doing something wrong with this pulse setting? I have rumble turned on in the settings, and it rumbles on a regular 360 pad, but nothing lights up when using the stick (with pulse turned on)
edit: this is the 360 version.
Hey guys, please don’t attack me if this already answered lol, but I just got the battlestick for 360 this afternoon. I love it so far, but I hate the square restrictor gate! I don’t mind the battop, all I want is a circle or octo gate. I have found some on amazon for like 15$, and I’m just wondering if its safe to buy it? I really don’t wanna ruin the stick. I read through most of the posts but all this looks kinda foreign to me! Thanks guys Also, to the guy above me: I’m havin the samething. Pretty sure its dead on a lot of them, my friends does notjing as well.
You could spend fifteen bucks, or you could spend five from the much loved focus attack (link).
As far as being safe to buy, the octo gate is made specifically to work with a JLF stick. The one that comes with the Battle Edition is a clone of the JLF. It will definitely fit. It will definitely work. The chances that it’ll ruin your stick are slim. And even if it does ruin something, one of the great things about owning a well made fightstick is that nothing is ever completely ruined. Elbow grease plus new parts can fix just about any problem you run into.
That said, if you can’t get the pulse setting to work, you should call WB Interactive or PDP to get some tech support before you do anything to the inside of the stick. If the pulse setting is broken, it’ll likely be a result of the PCB not functioning properly and that PCB is one of the few things that’s particularly difficult and expensive to replace because it is unique to the stick you just purchased. Currently there is no other PCB with built in lighting that you could easily swap it with.
Spends a bit more to do the JLF swap so that you can use the octo-gate. Or better yet, Toodles’ circle gate.