Alright, I’ve gotten everything I need from Laugh’s store (thanks Laugh - very prompt delivery!). I’ve pulled open the Paewang and removed the stock buttons and joystick. However, I’ve encountered a minor problem with the PCB for the Paewang - the original button PCB was actually glued on to the main PCB. This was easy enough to remove, but I had to pull the wires connecting the button PCB to the main PCB off. In doing so, I left very tiny bits of wire soldered to the PCB. Do I need to be concerned about these, or can I just solder the wires from each of my buttons directly over this?
If I do need to remove the existing solder from the previous connection to the stock buttons, what is the procedure that I need to undertake in order to do this?
Does anyone have a pin out diagram for the Sanwa JLF? Since I’ve got the harnesses to plug in to the Paewang PCB, I can always just determine by trial and error, but I’m having a friend do the soldering for me, and I’d ideally like to have everything set out in advance before handing the board over to him.
This vid has a rough diagram in it for the joystick:
[media=youtube]_Dv8RfEhuj8[/media]
I just did this mod but my LK button is stuck on Resolder it but no effect. Switched wires to a diff button (to check for a cross on PCB/PCB damage) and the problem went away. So its isolated to 1 button… is it faulty?
Edit: Gave up on getting that button to work. Just swapped it with the button that was in the 3K position and left it disconnected. Never use 3P/3K anyway, will order a replacement button if I want to use it for a diff game in the future.
I’m looking to put in CWB203C buttons and a Sanwa JLF in my Mayflash stick with the wire harnesses. Do the harnesses come with QD’s already attached like in the pictures? Could I also use QD’s for the PCB connector, or does that need to be soldered?
I’m going to build a mayflash mod. I have one question about the screw you need to have to mount the JLF, how many millimeters long is the “short screw” that you can buy from eTokkis shop?
I just have a quick question concerning how to add this PCB to a Madcatz SE.
The buttons (including start and back) and the joystick shouldn’t be too hard do but, I was wondering how you would connect guide and turbo?
Would I just solder it to the back of guide/turbo PCB on the SE?
Hey guy’s, would like to mod my Datel ArcadePro too.
But I’ve got two questions that the search button could not help me that much.
Is there any other difference between the Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK and JLF-TP-8YT than the damn mounting plate? I’m living in germany and the online-shops right here only sell the JLF-TP-8YT. The shop say’s, that I only have to buy a JLF-CD to turn the JFL-TP-8YT into a JFL-TP-8Y-SK is this correct? I’ve read about it, that you have to turn your PCB for 90°? If I buy a JFL-CD do I still need to turn the PCB for 90°?
What does that exactly mean? I’m a little bit lost:confused:
How do I know,when I’m using a H5P harness(if the colors are different to that in the picture), where and/or wich one I’ve to solder on the right place? Is it possible to solder the JLF like this guy: [media=youtube]_Dv8RfEhuj8&feature=related[/media]
To explain his working stepps: He solders the wires to the joystick and than to the PCB. You can see it on min 1:04!
That’s for sure harder to master, but that would put me on the save side of the whole stuff or is every H5P harness colored the same?
Sorry for these noob question’s, but I dont want to waste 40 bugs for garbage.
Is there any chance you can post something along the lines of what you clarified to Deathsushi? I am almost exactly in the same boat as him where I am unsure what all I need to order from your store in order to do what you did in the tutorial. I want to stay close to the tutorial and get through this myself.
Looks like the random button stuck to “ON” strikes again. Sadly my stick has worked 100% for months. Woke up the other day, turned on my PS3 and X wasn’t responding, moved joystick and suddenly logs into the wrong account. Connected to a pc and every button works fine, just X/A (2 on pc) is permanently on unless I turbo it.
Like the others with the issue, disconnecting all wires and solder doesn’t solve the issue, it just stays on. Going to experiment a bit and see if I get a solution out of this. Sadly this is my X/A button so I can’t just reroute it and continue on.
Hello, so I’m a total ass with electronics and I want to mod my mayflash stick with some sanwa OBSF-30 buttons and a JLF-TP-8YT joystick. My question is, do I need any specific wire to solder ?
I’m very sorry if the answer is so logic for you guys but I really have no experience, and this is not a troll post…
This is one helpful guide, Ryan. I’ll be using this to mod if ever I find a Paewang Rev stick here in the Philippines. For now, I will be waiting for my package from you (from Etokki) to arrive.
Yeah, I really hope our big gaming stores would import this stick. We once had the Mayflash as well but then after it went out of stock no new ones came after it. Arcade sticks are becoming a rarity in shops here, even the Hori and other SE and TE ones. I once thought of getting this P.Rev from Etokki but it might get intercepted by the Philippine Customs and I might be charged with 100% tax (meaning I might have to pay the same price for tax alone - like buying a single stick for the price of two) before I get to have it. I don’t want to risk crossing paths with the CORRUPT PHILIPPINE system. I might as well wait for a miracle for a store to have these on sale. Anyway, once again this is one great tutorial
Resolder it but no effect. Switched wires to a diff button (to check for a cross on PCB/PCB damage) and the problem went away. So its isolated to 1 button… is it faulty?
