just keep the same model but make it smaller. would be cool to make top and bottom panels flush with the case. but other than that, it’s perfect!
The BIG thing Art has going for him is that his stuff is built to order, so as was said above, more options are always nice!
Slant ftw.
Whatever keeps it smaller. If slanting it takes up more space, keep it flat and vice versa.
I’d kill for a Mini Hitbox Tek Case
color options on acrylic, too. i need to do all black.
Would love one of these with slanted top.
I’d like to have the option of either a flat or slanted top. I’d easily buy one of these right away if it was compatible with the LS-32.
It’d be cool if there was an option to have the regular button holes fit the 24mm Sanwa buttons, put a smaller balltop on it and it’d be a great travel stick for when you don’t want to lug shit around
sooooo stoked
I second the suggestion for 24mm main button holes option.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l7/butteroj/IMG_1815_zps858b5c7b.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l7/butteroj/IMG_1812_zpsd0ffa532.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l7/butteroj/IMG_1813_zps7fed1fbf.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l7/butteroj/IMG_1808_zps516f976a.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l7/butteroj/IMG_1811_zps8d1c8f2a.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l7/butteroj/IMG_1807_zps3764a451.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l7/butteroj/IMG_1806_zps3c0c84d1.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l7/butteroj/IMG_1803_zps30143059.jpg
Here’s the dimensions
Slope = 5 degrees
Height (not including feet):
Lowest point = 1.75"
Highest point = 2.4"
Add about 0.35" with the feet I use
Length = 9.5"
Width = 7.5"
As youll notice one HUGE improvement Art has made is counter-sinking the joystick screws, allowing for a much more stable attachment. In the pics you’ll also see the countersunk jlf mounting in action, in the support layer. So in the pics you can see the new joint system, which is a larger piece with all the hex nuts already in place. So rather than the original Tek-Case, which has 8 diamond joints, and requires that each hex nut be slotted to the openings, this will just require that you position the two large joints together, form the basic skeleton, then screw all the side panels in. Very low build time, in comparison.
The PCB panel will just be one smaller panel to ziptie pcb boards to. And rather than using more screws, it now uses a “snap in” method, which I will explain in more detail next time. I’m not entirely sure how well this will fit all the new pcb options available nowadays, and how well it will fit, but it remains an option and of course you can decide not to use it for more space to play around with the fitting.
Art is also going to be making both slanted and flat top options available.
very nice. i’m in.
I hope I can place an order soon. This needs to replace my brawlstick.
Wow, I think it would be nice if he adapted some of those ideas into a Tek-Case S1-C… Or maybe even call it an S2!!!
Very cool and nicely done, Art!
how about color options? can we do all black? i’m in, btw.
This will be cheaper than the S1 right?
i’d be down for buying one too
Ever think of doing a bigger size as well?
I love the width of the HRAP Kai (about 18") as I have bigger hands, and also appreciate more room to showcase great artwork.