Will a LS-32-02 fit into a hrap1 the one without a mirror top?
any advice in pulling out the QDs because i kind of pulled too hard and ripped out the QD from the actual wire.:sad: man those things are tight are too pull out sometimes. maybe this might be a good time ask if anyone can spare some .110 QDs for me.
use a screw driver to lose them up, never pull anything by the wire:P
what do you mean? do you mean like push from the bottom of the disconnect to loosen it? please clarify. thanks.
push from the buttom yeah
Quick questions…
I just got one of these today, and it’s the first stick I’ve owned (sad, huh?).
Anyways, I hate the square restrictor plate. Would the octagonal sanwa GT-Y plate work? For reference, it’s towards the bottom here:
http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/joysticks.shtml
Also, is there a guide somewhere for changing restrictor plates? I’m brand-new at this but not afraid to get my hands dirty
It would work, I doubt you want to do it though, since it fucks up df, and db, motions found in VF and it fucks up strict DP.
Anyways, to do it: you see the original gate held by 4 holders, press 2 of then and lift the gate a bit and do the same with the other 2 and take the gate of, then click in the new gate.
Ok, thanks for the info. Would I be better off with the circular gate?
Or, should I just put in a different stick altogether? I was considering the gate option because it was cheaper.
The stick will be primarily for 3S, if that matters.
Just use whatever works for you. I, personally, like octagonal gates. I don’t have any issues hitting diagonals. I guess it depends on your execution or style of movement. If you have imprecise execution, the square gate can help you “feel” those diagonals better. The circular gate won’t help you feel squat.
I think I like octagonals the best because it’s a marriage between smoothness and having those slight indentations that show you where the perfect angle is. For me, anyway.
I use square gate and I don’t have trouble with anything here.
That was my thinking with the octagonal - that it would help me learn all of the angles, and from there I could switch to circular.
I have two HRAP2s that I use for 3S and one has an octagonal restricter and the other is a Seimitsu stick. Both work much better than default Sanwa square gate (I prefer the Seimitsu and my friend prefers Sanwa with 8gate). The Seimitsu is better for me also because then I can use it for shooters as well.
by chance does anybody know where i can get screws to mount the seimitsu ls-32 to the hrap2? i lost the original screws when i took out the sanwa jlf.
Does anyone know anything (at all) about the Seimitsu PS-14-KN Pushbutton with Vertical Microswitch? Would I be able to mod my hrap with these buttons? Also, does anyone if there are any of the original PS-14-K skeletons floating around anywhere? There’s a European on line site that still has some, but with the currency conversion and shipping, it’s mad expensive.
I don’t have any personal experience with them, but if they’re anything like the other threaded Seimitsu buttons, they should be able to fit. It’ll be a very tight fit, but it should fit.
i got a modded hrap2 and i love it (sanwa buttons, same sanwa jlf stick)
I ordered six Seimitsu PS-14-KN buttons four days ago and expect them any day now. I’ll be modding my hrap 2 with them as soon as I get them. Stay tuned for a performance review!
I’m looking into modding my HRAP2 as well, I’m debating between a JLF and a LS-32-2…my finkle stick has a JLF, unfortunately its PCB is fucked so I got to send that back to finkle, so I don’t really know how I like it just yet. The custom HRAP2 has kinda screwed me up execution wise. I can barely pull off wake up supers, but I just need some time with it, I think.
Any ideas on where I can pick up a LS-32-2 stick/GX buttons? That’s if I go down that road, which if you guys have any feed back (mainly 3s player, wanting to pick up GG:AC/MBAC)
Also, any word on how to remove the faceplate and change it to something I get from Kinkos?
Yeah, the only thing that you would need is practice. I had some of the same experiences before, but I personally prefer the JLF, because IIRC, the OEM sticks for AC and MB are JLF’s. The LS-32 would be the OEM for Third strike/ CVS2/ ST etc.
You can pick up the LS-32-01 at lizardlick, but the GX buttons are out of print.
AFAIK, there isn’t a template for the hrap two. You could probably use the HRAP1 layout and erase the circles for the buttons (it’s a psd file)and after printing it out at Kinko’s, you can then cut out the circles for the correct layout.
Hope that helps.
There’s only a slight difference between the JLF and LS-32. With the LS-32, you feel more of the “square” when compared to the JLF. Maybe you’re not used to the square restrictor? Try buying an Octagonal restrictor (Sanwa GT-Y) for your Sanwa JLF.
As for the buttons, those have been out of production for awhile, so good luck finding some. Also, if you do get Seimitsu buttons, I recommend that you don’t get PS-14-G buttons since they’re flat, not convex. PS-14-GN buttons are fine, but screwing them on your HRAP2 hassle you a bit more than snap-ins. To make things easier, just get Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons.