Hey all, I’m somewhat new to modding sticks. I bought a HRAP EX last year around when SF4 was released. I did a very basic mod on the buttons and replaced the stock buttons with Sanwas. Now I’m looking to add custom art and possibly replace the joystick, which brings me to my questions.
First, I’ve seen a few tutorials on adding custom art and I think the route I will be taking is the plexi glass on top of cardstock. That being said, most say to remove the current stock decal from the metal faceplate. I am just wondering if this is necessary, and if so, why?
Second, I know that the HRAP EX comes with a Sanwa joystick, but I can’t find the specifics on which one it is. I’m curious which Sanwa joystick it is in case I want/need to replace it.
The removal of stock decal is just to lessen thickness than having decal with card stock with acrylic.
To help with Snap-in Buttons actually able to snap.
Screw-in Buttons are no problem.
Sanwa Joystick is JLF.
A JLF is a JLF.
There is only one kind.
All Sanwa JLF are the same; some just have different prefixes to show what is added on.
Here the six variations listed in Sanwa Catalog ('07~'08):
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).
Of course other variations can be done too:
JLF-TP-8-SK, JLF-TP-8T-SK, JLF-TP-8S-SK, JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
I’ll just add this for completeness, since it is JLF:
JLF-TM-8 can do; JLF-TM-8T, JLF-TM-8T-SK, JLF-TM-8S, JLF-TM-8S-SK.
JLF-TM-8 are Joystick without the TP-MA.
They are in HRAP EX and HRAP EX SA.
Specifally in those HRAP, it is Sanwa JLF-TM-8T-SK-K.
Now tell me what that Joystick is.
R = Red
Y = Yellow
B = Blue
O = Orange
W = White
P = Pink
G = Green
DB = Dark Blue
VI = Violet
VER = Vermilion
K = Black
K/DH = Black/Gray
Thanks for the quick reply and detailed answers. Unfortunately, you lost me with the last part of it explaining the variations of sticks. On Lizardlick.com where I will be ordering my parts from, the 3 variations that I would consider would be the JLF-TP-8T, JLF-TP-8YT-SK, and JLW-TM-8. Which would be the closest resemblance to what comes stock in the HRAP EX?
None of those.
Again, a JLF is a JLF.
But a JLF is not a JLW.
Your HRAP EX comes with Sanwa JLF.
So what is close? A Sanwa JLF.
You can install any of those JLF-TP-8 into your HRAP EX.
You can install any Sanwa JLF (with JLF-P-1) into your HRAP EX.
But you won’t be able to use JLF-TP-8 with HRAP EX unless modify.
Because HRAP EX is non-Common Ground, there is no use of Wire Harness.
You will cut the Traces on TP-MA or desolder the Microswitches off.
And then solder the wires directly to Microswitches.
So it is more sense to buy a Sanwa JLF-TM-8.
Because that does not use Microswitch PCB Assembly.
But uses four individual Microswitches, which can be soldered to, or use Quick Disconnects.
Sanwa JLF-TM-8 are not sold anymore.
But they are still available in HRAP EX and HRAP EX SA.
But you can also ask Chad of Lizard Lick for a Sanwa JLF-TM-8.
You have to ask him because they are not available on Webstore.
Chad uses Sanwa MS-O-3 (OMRON V-10-1A4) Microswitches though.
They are Microswitches used in LED Buttons from Sanwa.
While JLF-TM-8 in HRAP have OMRON V-10-1A5.
And the original JLF-TM-8 Microswitch from Sanwa were MS-Y-3 (azbil Yamatake V-5210E).
Not offered by Sanwa anymore for some reason.
The differences are nothing though.
A Sanwa JLW is totally different from a JLF.
So don’t even compare close resemblance.
I’m not leaving until you tell me what a Sanwa JLF-TM-8T-SK-K is.
Laugh.
Thanks again. I wish I could tell you, but I’m still not positive what it all means put together lol. I did my best to follow your first post, but as I said, I’m relatively new to this, and all of the different slight variations seem a bit overwhelming to me at this point. Once I open my stick, I can see what the joystick actually looks like and compare to what is on the website and figure out what I need to get.
I think there’s a bit of misunderstanding here with all the specific codes being thrown around.
First of all, jdm is right (you’ll learn that he’s always right, he is Tech Talk’s librarian); the joystick on the HRAP EX/EX SA is the JLF-TM-8. This is no different from any of the other JLFs out there, except the fact that it lacks a PCB. All retail JLFs include a PCB. Here’s what you’ll find in your HRAP EX and a comparison to a retail JLF (specifically, a JLF-TP-8T).
Notice how on the JLF on the right has the brown PCB and the one on the left, the joystick you’ll find in your HRAP EX, doesn’t? That is the only difference between them. If you ever want to replace your JLF, all you have to do buy either JLF-TP-8T or JLF-TP-8YT-SK (from lizardlick.com, at least) and cut the PCB traces. Like so.
Then you’re good to go.
Also, you should also know that the stock springs in the HRAP EX JLFs are much stiffer compared to a JLF spring. I took mine out and did a comparison.
The stock spring is on the left and the standard JLF spring is on the right. You can just replace the spring in your HRAP EX and make it a perfect JLF. Hope this is enough explaining.
If I wanted to mod my HRAP EX and add an Seimitsu LS-32, would I just do the same thing? It seems as if all joysticks that I’m looking at online come with a PCB. I guess the question I have is could I mod my joystick to use the PCB that comes with a new joystick? And if so, how?
If you check Lizardlick, you’ll find that the vanilla LS-32 does not have a PCB, while the LS-32-01 does. However, you will need the S-plate that comes standard with the LS-32-01. Email Chad if you want an LS-32 with a S-plate.
So I think I’ve decided to go with the Seimitsu LS-32 and SS Mounting Plate. The only question remaining is will I need to solder in order to install it? If so, is there a link to a tutorial showing how to install an LS-32 into an HRAP EX? Thanks.
Awesome man! Thanks for the info. I believe I’d need 8 QD’s but please correct me if I’m wrong. Also, what is the difference between the LS-32 and the LS-56? Thanks again, you’re the man!
Also, after doing some research, I see that I will need to bend the QD’s at the top when I put in the LS-32. Is there a trick to this or to just be gentle so that they don’t break? Also, the SS mounting plate looks like it comes close to interfering with one of the buttons, especially if they are screw in buttons, which is what I plan on getting. If this will cause a problem, please let me know, and anything I could do to remedy this would be appreciated.
If it is Sanwa Screw-in, then there is problem.
Would have to file down the Nut.
Or you can use Seimitsu Nut.
Seimitsu Screw-in would be no problem.
But if you do, then put Nut in first, then screw in Button.
Instead of putting in Button and screwing in Nut, do opposite.
On personal experience, even a Seimitsu screw-in will give you some problems. The mounting bracket on the HRAP EX is too close to the A button for the nut to fit there perfectly. I’ve had to file the nut down a little so it would fit.
