This is a great tutorial. I’ve wanted to build a 360/PSX stick, and I’ve had no idea how to do it, ha ha. Been rooting around for info, and this will definitely help.
Nevermind, I got the guide to work.
Apparently, my previous drivers for the 360 controllers didn’t have a guide button enabler or something. So I re-installed them and voila, working guide button.
Used this guide and everything works wonderfully. I used a small circuit board for the inverter mod, but other than that, to the letter. Really great guide!
Well i tried to dual mod my HRAP3 and it was complete epic failure!!!
I screwed up the home solder point of the HRAP3. Never again will i touch that pcb to modify.
I will now throw the PCB in the bin and put a cthulhu in it and try the dual mod that way.
The copper film thingo on the home button is really a complete pain in the ass, i tried finding another solder point, but i think i ripped off the copper lining for it too… maybe my iron was too hot… it was at 450 degrees…
Oh well… you’ve got to make mistatkes to learn things right?? 
I dont’ even bother with the home button on HRAP3 mods. I just use IMP’s start+ select = guide functionality. That contact is NOT fun.
How come you don’t show how to do the trigger mod using transistors and resistors? You should at least link reference to it in the other tread.
Oh and I’m pissed…I got 2 madcatz controllers to prep up for doing dual mods and the first pad hack was fine. Its the second one that pissed me off. After going through the trouble of removing both analog sticks and replacing them with 10k resistors (surface mount ones mind you!) and doing the transistor + resister method (again, surface mount ones) for the triggers I plugged the controller in my laptop to test that it went ok. Damn controller wouldn’t turn on!
$25 down the drain. I really should of tested the controller before opening it up to make sure it wasn’t already dysfunctional in the beginning.
You aren’t going to Summer Jam this weekend are you?
Nah, I’m getting ready to go back to College.
before tossing the pad out, see if its the USB cord. I had a Hori EX2 where the 5V USB line was broken, so the whole thing didn’t work. I replaced it and it worked fine.
I’m not to familiar with the transistor/resistor method, though it doesn’t seem that hard. I like this better cuz if you’re doing a dual mod, you don’t need the diodes.
The 5v line is fine, I already checked with my multimeter to see if the board was getting 5v.
I had a working pad that I connected to the Xbox 360 and tried Blazblue with. Everything worked perfectly (buttons and pad) so it apart. Removed almost everything (except for the bottom piece of the trigger set) and noted where the VCC, D-,D+ and ground went.
Hooked it up to the Imp+Cthulhu and now it doesn’t recognize a thing on the pad. So I thought it could have something to do with my PC and decided to reconnect the old USB wires back on.
It still doesn’t recognize a thing. I’m wondering what should I be check for other than sloppy soldering?
I also bought another pad and hope this one will be the last since funds are running low.
Make sure the D+ and D- are in the proper places (not switched). That could cause mucho-issues.
The worst case would be if you shorted the board. Does the board get 5V on it? test it with a multimeter.
Well, if the D+ and D- were switched, I think Windows would say “Unknown device”. I once experienced an issue where the pads weren’t detected and I found out it was the IMP. Apparently the VCC and Ground were connected together.
I’ve done this before and it just leaves the led’s light on without them turning off. When I make sure that the D+ and D- match with what’s on the IMP, the leds on the pad turn on, then turn off and I receive the “Unknown Device” from Windows. Although I think it’ll give me that message if a pad or not was connected to the IMP.
It could be I shorted the board, unfortunately. I’ve switched the D+ and D- around, de-soldered everything, cleaned things up and re-soldered again. The board is definitely getting power on the V+ contact and the controller lights coming on when it’s plugged into the PC, or when the led’s come on when the 360 is trying to find a controller seems to point to that. To be redundant it also shows around 5v+ on the V point.
I have another pad coming in from Nareg and I’m hoping it’s the last one I’ll need. I’m hoping to salvage the one I’m having trouble with so I can make a cheap stick for the lady.
I’ll try to post pics tomorrow on some of the trouble spots and the whole PCB.
I just checked the IMP before and don’t see any wires crossed or sloppy soldering. I’ll also post a pic of the whole set up to see if maybe I’ve went wrong somewhere. I do feel I’ve shorted the pad since it worked fine when I tested it out and even played 10 minutes of Blazblue with it. After I started prepping the pad it seems I did something wrong.
Thanks for the replies.
just wondering how you actually wire this up?
Do you not wire up the guide/home button on the 360 at all?
ie. wire up both starts and selects (hrap3/360) and then wire it up to the imp? then solder a blob at the back of the imp to connect that little rectangle together?
i plan on wiring the x360 guide/home to my HRAP3’s select button, rather than the one on the hrap PCB
Thats exactly what you do 
I think the blob is labeled too.
hmm didn’t realise the imp knew what the guide button was on the 360 pad…
I dunno how it works, it just does
Damnit, I wish i knew that before I hacked out my HRAP3 pcb lol… its all good, i’ve dual modded it now with a cthuhlu anyway and the 4716 board, just waiting for arthong to send out the plexi for the 6 button config
Just clarifying, I can use between 5k - 10k resistors right? It doesn’t have to be 10k just?
And if I want to connect it to the Cthulhu, I would just place the button signals to the signals on the Cthulhu using the same setup (resistor/inverter)?
I dont know if its too late but there is an alternate point for the home button on hraps when i dual mod hraps I use the pin on the chipset you need a 32 awg wire for the connect because its pretty tiny but it keeps it from interfereing with home buttons. You can find the point using a multimeter I wish I had one open to show you. PM me if you need help.