I got lucky to go to a local electronics store and purchase the 74HCT04 chips (hopefully they don’t matter between this and the one u used, 74HCT14 since it has a schmitt trigger feature in it)
costed $.74, bought 2 and ended up to be just $2, perfect since i’m modding a 2nd stick with the same features as the one I’m working on (now both are awaiting xbox modding)…
I’m gonna do the hack with a through hole board i bought from radioshack for convenience and clean (though my overall wiring is a mess!). as for the 1/8 watt resistor thing, luckily I got the 1/4 watt ones sitting in my car (didn’t notice the size of 1/8 watt resistor compared with the others, and their colors)
well I bought 2 of these over the weekend, extremely easy to find.
you can actually see the #4716 through the back of the packaging if you look close enough, at least on the madcatz packaged version. the part number will be on the left hand paragraph of text on the back of the controller.
got pcb extracted, triggers neutralized, soldered & wired to terminals in under an hour. extremely easy pad to work with. if going with the 6 button setup, neutralizing the triggers will be your best option. takes off a huge chunk of extra crap on the back so you have a generally smaller board to install in your case.
now I just need to get some new parts for my older AE stick and it should be back in business
This. I’m gonna make an update to the tutorial with how to neutralize the triggers in detail. It’ll come complete with Screenshots and Pictures
I thought i had a picture of the back of the pad so people can see. I will update it with those pictures. The gamestop branded and madcatz branded 4716es have similar packaging, so you can see the number on both of them.
Thanks!!
Sorry about not having QDs and all on the guide yet! I swear, it’s coming soon, I’ve just been swamped with work/other wiring jobs for people.
You’ve mentioned that all the grounds are common. Would there be any issue if
wires were run from each ground? That’s pretty much what I’ve done. I know it’s
more work, but I’m franksteining an old Pelican arcade stick so the
wires are pre-soldered to buttons. That means each one has both a signal wire
and a ground. Everything is soldered (I’ll should have a picture later tonight).
When I plug the currently naked pcb into my 360 to test it, all I get are the four
LED’s (on the controller) flashing and no response from any of the buttons.
Plug it into a PC, go to game controllers in control panel, choose your controller. Then select a button, take the two wires from it, and touch the ends together. That should activate that button.
If you’re not getting a reaction out of any buttons you’ve probably got solder connecting the ground and signal points, or bad connections on your wires.
I have the exact same problem, and my computer won’t even detect the controller to test it at all. I have to go hunt for a multimeter I suppose, because I’m assuming there’s a short somewhere.
Have you guys done anything to the pad yet?
If so, what?
If the pad doesnt work after disassembling it, but it still has everything on it, and you really havent done anything to it, I’d suspect the problem is in the breakaway cable.
Did you guys test the pads themselves before disassembly?
You need to either cut that trace and get a better scrape, or clean it up like crazy and resolder. You’ve got a lot of the areas outside of the trace exposed, and those are ground.
If you’ve got solder bridging the areas outside and inside it’s going to keep the button activated.
Personally I would carefully cut the trace just below where you last worked, and then re scrape the trace to expose copper (to the left of the C38) and do a cleaner job.
Also, FYI, the outside of those black lines is ground, the inside is the actual trace, it looks like you might be soldering to the outside?
So finally when i was about to give up on this mc pad i checked the mini pcb on top and realized that the signal and ground were touching! so the whole time i thought it was my soldering/trace scrapping when in reality it was something really small that i was overlooking.
thanks
edit- Another pain about this stick is that it was already modded with sanwa parts with the original non cg pcb. So when i wired it up i had to solder to the switches, didnt wanna stick for shit. lol