wow great write-up man. I’m gonna be on a hunt for a 4716 pad now 
Cant wait for step 6
So what’s the difference between this hack and the old ones people used. Were the old ones not common ground?
quick question, if you take off the pots from the triggers, can you still use the 6 buttons instead of the 8? or is it due to the active-high issue preventing the other buttons to be used.
(A, B, X, Y, LB, and RB)
also, does the 2 resistor (10k ohm resistor) hack method still work for this controller or it’s only the hex inverter method
edit: 1/8 watt resistors are not acceptable for this hack right?
Can you just leave the whole gray plastic trigger assembly on there untouched to not mess with pots/etc if I’m only using a,b,x,y,rb,lb? I mean leave the triggers assembled so i don’t have to mess with them, but not wire them to any arcade buttons.
How would i go about using a 2009 mc pad on a hori ex2 and keep the mic usable?
thanks
Hey guys, sorry I haven’t added the last quick disconnect step, I’ve been kinda busy, but I’ll try to address some questions and finish up the tutorial tomorrow.
The old Madcatz pads had active low triggers, and the PCB was mapped differently (some signals and grounds were switched). We need the hex inverters on the new pads because they’re active high.
If you take the pots off, you might have short term success, but you need to neutralize them if you don’t want weird shit happening to your controller.
The 2 resistor hack does not work anymore, due to the active-high nature of the pads. I’m not sure if 1/8 watt is enough, but I’d assume they are. If you have em, try em out, and see if they work. If you don’t I’d go for the 1/4 watt ones.
Yes, thats completely fine If you have the space to keep the gray trigger assembly, then you can and just use the other contacts. The triggers keep the pots neutralized for you, as long as they don’t get pressed, so this method would also work.
I’ve never looked inside a Hori EX2 (I’m doing a mod this weekend though!), but if you want to use a madcatz pad inside one, you’d remove the hori ex2 pcb and wire all the buttons up to the appropriate place on the padhack. I don’t know if this is possible, because of the way the 5 buttons mounted on the top work, but I’ll give you a better answer after my Hori EX2 mod.
I’ve also never tried getting the mic to work. What you can do, though, it get an extension cord for the mic and cut a new hole in the case and mount it there. When building customs, I find that is the easiest way to get a mic port. Unfortunately, if you do the mic through this method, the Xbox360 always thinks theres a mic plugged in, but I don’t think thats too big of an issue.
Thanks for the info, now I just need to practice my soldering.
very nice man, I thought I had read that the newer pads were not common ground, so I was hesitant on picking a couple up for use on upgrading some old AE sticks.
am I correct in saying if I only want a 6 button layout (no triggers) I don’t need the whole hex inverter setup? that would be fine for me. looks like you answered this a bit, but just double checking.
I’ve got a bestbuy/walmart that carries these style pads so I’ll probably pick a couple up and give it a try.
Yup, you only need the hex inverter for the triggers. If you don’t need the triggers, either keep the grey trigger assembly on or neutralize the pots with hot glue.
Make sure that the bestbuy/walmart has this exact pad! Madcatz 4716 08/09 edition
cool. neutralizing sounds best since it’ll remove some unwanted crap from the board.
also just read through the neutralizing section, you got two 5a steps, lol. 5b doesn’t exist 
I was like wtf where’s 5b…oh wait there’s two 5a’s lol. Thx for the info though, I’ll be sure to check it’s the 4716 model.
lol, good catch. I’ll fix that real quick.
So far when I was testing the pots on my controller with a computer, the z-axis would change directions, lets say I turn the RT pot a few times. It would go to the top, but if i turn the LT pot around it goes back to the middle of z-axis. What’s puzzling me is if that makes it neutral or not, cuz if it did and I lock it in place with hot glue only to find that it’s registering the triggers as pulled down.
nevershootme- Best thing to do is the triggers individually. Play with the LT turning it left then right until its good. then the same for the RT.
Thats a good point. I’ll update my tutorial to reflect this.
Quick question is this version of the #4716 common ground? It says “2009” on the back.
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/6696/p7120267.jpg
EDIT: sorry for the big pic
@Alchemaga: That looks perfect. You’re good to go.
nice, opening it up right now, great thread BTW. Your soldering is really clean and professional compared to mine
Can someone please tell me exactly how Windows’ Game Controller menu should register pressing the Left trigger and Right trigger (individually) after the resistors and such have been added? It seems like the guide tells you how to set them to neutral, but not what specific trigger button presses look like.
are the controllers from gamestop 24.99 common ground pcbs?
looking at trying to dual mod the HRAP3 and would like to purchase some pads that are readily available but im very limited to where i buy the contollers from as im in australia
When they’re neutral the axis stays centered.
When you press one trigger it rises sharply, and the other trigger makes it drop sharply. I can’t remember which one is which off the top of my head at the moment, but you’ll see it when it happens.