you are correct. its the red wire coming from the USB cable.
Awesome. Thank you!
Another question, is there anyway to tell what the specs are on the guide LEDs that are mounted to the pcb? I wanna try to mount them to the exterior of my stick but I’m afraid I may break the little buggers when I de-solder them. I’d be more apt to try it if I knew I could replace them. Thanks again, guys.
Hmm, well a quick way to determine specs would be to turn on your stick, and check the voltage across the LED thats on with a multimeter. Order some 0603 surface mount LEDs with that forward voltage requirement.
here’s some direct replacements from a mod site: http://secure.llamma.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=43_81_75
How do you wire this pad to a Chimp board for dual mod?
Ok, another question, do you think the pcb would still work with those surface mounted leds removed? Kinda like the rumble motors?
I think there something wrong with the pin out diagram
http://img189.imageshack.us/i/backlabeled.jpg/
Shows LB and RB as Ground Left and Signal Right (flipped over its Signal Left and Ground right)
But in this picture
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/9900/hackednotrigs.jpg
I see both LB and RB have there outer most (Left most on the left and right most on the right) area soldered.
Which is right?
How you see where the second picture is soldered?
It is covered by the switch itself.
Zoom in you can see which holes are filled
I see those.
But you are looking at the wrong holes.
There are four.
Two on top, two on bottom.
ah I see you can’t see where its actually being solder to, it s being solder to the solder points of that button thing correct? In which case that makes sense.
Also I notice in some pad hacking pictures people took off the joystick thingys, is that necessary?
Here you actually see LB and RB soldered.
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/2173/completed.jpg
And it agrees with the diagram.
The analog stick housings? You don’t need to remove them but it would save you some space.
Wait a seconds thats with it upside down which means its exactly like this picture
http://img189.imageshack.us/i/backlabeled.jpg/
Grounds on the left for both and in the picture you posted he has them both soldered to the grounds.
Well that is weird.
Upas probably has the correct picture somewhere.
But the diagram is correct.
Hey everyone !
I just had a problem with my Madcatz 4716, the A button (low kick in sf4) doesn’t work O_o
After testing my arcade stick on PC, I discovered that the A button is always pressed.
The Sanwa button is Ok, so it’s probably a pcb problem, but I can’t resolve it 
Thanks in advance for your help !
All right, I fixed it !!! :rock:
I ran into an issue with my triggers… Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. For single press it works fine. If I press it repeatedly and fast (jabbing) sometimes it’ll come out fast and sometimes there is significant lag before the button is pressed. Anyone else experiencing this problem?
Can someone put a mad catz 4716 pcbd with the chimp board. I’m confuse on how to do the invert with it.
The ChImp can invert on it’s own. I don’t think it needs it’s own inverter chip, but I haven’t used one yet, so I cant tell you the specifics. I’ve been busy with school, but I’ll be hitting modding hard again when summer comes around.
Yes, the diagram is correct. I have no idea what I was doing in that picture. I might have just made a mistake. As a general rule, if you see the traces coming from it, its usually signal, but not always, so it’s best to follow the diagrams.