Oh man, I punked out. I just don’t know how Im suppose to mount the JLF. Do I mount it with or without the flat metal plate if so, then it only fits one way and I would have to grind down all of the plastic housing and screw posts from the hori. I’ll try and post up some pictures and hopefully you guys can help me. If you could, please call me at 323-304-1027. Sighhh…
without the flate metal plate, you dont want to do any grinding to the platic box when we mentioned grinding that was only for the bottom of the case, leave all the underside plastic housing and screw posts alone!
OK first off you want to take the flat metal plate off and take the whole jlf apart. when it is apart take the black plastic base part that the flat metal plate was mounted to. This is the part of the JLF that needs modification in two ways.
Look at the second pic in this thread:
it shows you the tabs of the baseplate cut off and the holes drilled big enough for it to slip on to the hori’s plastic screw posts (5th pic). So there is no need to grind all that stuff off to get it to fit, just grinding the JLF’s baseplate is a much better solution.
There are two holes close to each other one is the one you have to make bigger and slip on to the hori’s screw posts and the other is where you unmounted the flat metal plate from, you want to drill the 1st hole not the plate mount hole, just use your eyes and look at the pics for reference, shouldn’t be hard, just be careful i not to have a loose grip and be aware of your fingers to not get them caught by the drill or in the plastic baseplate if it happens to spin out while drilling.
The grinding part of the base mod should be easy, well if you have a grinder, as long as you dont grind too far and mess with the holes you have to make bigger, because two of those holes are pretty close to the two sides you have to grind off but not too close so its not that bad.
When you notice that you drilled those holes enough for the base to fit on SNUG around the plastic screw posts don’t screw the holes any bigger, you dont want it moving around on those posts. Now that everything fits on the case you just have to buy some epoxy for when your going to mount the baseplate to the case.
Those plastic screw posts will get screwed into later through the gate after you do the gate mod, which is just drilling bigger holes again but very easy.
Thank you very much. I went through this whole thread and not once did I see those pictures. I will study those pictures pretty hard and then give it a go. I thought only the LS-33 needed to be glued down. Can I avoid the epoxy? If not what kind of epoxy should I buy?
Thank you very much. I really appreciate your help.
Someone above posted that you dont need to epoxy, I thought I was supposed to so I did epoxy either way it couldn’t hurt. For what epoxy to buy ? just make sure the one you get can do plastic and you should be good.
I dont think that thread I posted is the same thread probably why you didnt see the pics here but in this thread that we are in now if you go to pg 9 mwong168 posted his mod but if you scroll down a little further he re-posts one of the pics and lists the wires by color and what button or joystick movement they go to, this will come in handy when you need to wire.
Have you tested this theory yet to see if that connector does in fact work with a wired 360 cord?
I wrote about trying it in one of the posts above…
Didn’t work, mad at first but its nice having 1 wireless stick, someone did put a rechargeable ion battery in one of these but I wouldn’t know how to do that, well without researching how.
SliceNeckZ,
Thank you very much. Just finished my joystick and everything came out prefect. Can’t thank you and archalien enough. I will post pictures up in a while but be warned my wiring is not pretty. This is my first time soldering too. All I will add later is some weight. Wireless Tekken 6 stick with Sanwa buttons and stick is pretty cool. I’m going to mod one more to have a pair, I have a brand new bundle just waiting to be modded. I now have a total of 7 sticks. 2 TE’s dual modded, 2 all Sanwa TvsC for Wii, 2 Tekken wireless sticks (one recently modded) and a dual modded Hori VLX…
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/7447/tekken6stockinside.jpg
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/6060/tekken6jlfbaseplate.jpg
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/1174/tekken6wiring.jpg
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/1320/tekken6finished.jpg
Ok here is my completed modded Tekken 6 stick and a couple of extra pics. Once again thank you all for helping me out.
Looks good, I need to post mine up, I took a pic but only after I finished painting the box, never thought to take a pic of it completed because I’m a dope.
I have to say something about the T6 though, the only thing that holds this stick back is that the modding is more then just swapping and when you do the stick (jlf) shaft is a little bit longer from the top, also the fact that none of us have managed to figure out how to get this thing wired. (barring nobody trying the voltage regulator method).
Those things are not so bad and when you notice that you can get this stick for dirt cheap and when you take off the art it reveals this grey metal panel that on the white just looks awesome, as if it’s some old Nintendo controller or arcade stick made back in the day. That was my original idea I had for mine. I wanted to leave the case white, make the buttons go from left to right: 2 grey, 4 black and 2 red. Now that would have been sick, I dont know why I strayed from that Idea and painted the case black, which led me to change all buttons to white including start and select(not 3xp 3xk) , and even the Xbox guide (since I ripped the Xbox sticker in the guide button out and sanded the button now it’s just a white button with green led around it) The Ball and 3xP 3xK buttons are the same Sanwa green. I’ll get some pics from my phone, cant find my damn battery charger for my digital camera’s battery pack arrgghhh.
edit and here we are:
I like the Idea of making look like an old NES joystick…You got me thinking. As for the joystick being taller, I don’t mind it due to having big hands. I can palm a mens size basketball on the bounce. It feels great and I will be modding my other joystick once I get the parts in.
I dont know how important shaft height is to people but I always thought it would be a bigger deal because well I would think people have different size hands, I mean the only threads I’ve seen about it are people actually wanting to make their JLF shaft shorter. I always thought the shaft on the TE felt too short for how I hold the stick (which is lay my hand palm up, put the shaft between my middle and ring fingers then turn my hand over to the right (it was the most comfortable way of the different forms I saw on slagcoin or whatever website I was looking for stick technique advice from) I mean how the hell do fat players play on it I have no idea, now when I finished the T6 and I play on this stick and think it’s just a little too long, and switching to a octagon gate from square on the TE didn’t make it any easier (didn’t like the Octagon gate(too many edges, want to try circle see what that’s about considering there are no edges). I would like to find a shaft size that’s in-between, otherwise I did have an idea to make one to my size from one of those huge hollow ones I bought from FocusAttack , thinking it might be just a little bit longer than the TE’s, but it was huge. Have to think it through though.
Just hoping somebody can help me with an issue I’ve run into?
Before I start I know nothing about electronics so If I’ve done something that seems completely nonsensical to people in the know, just remember I have no idea what I’m doing, I just followed a guide posted in this thread.
Long story short my arcade stick can only seem to handle 1 input at a time any more than that and the signal just gets cut out and my sf3 character just stands there doing nothing. eg. If I jump and keep the joystick in the up direction and hit the kick button the character wont kick, but if I jump and let the stick go to neutral then hit the kick button the character will do a kick in the air.
I’ve followed Necrodus PS3 solderless modding guide and managed to get everything working, but I try to use combinations of directions and buttons to pull off moves it only seems to work half the time, even jumping forward or back is a struggle and I’ve noticed that if I get my character in SF3 to walk forwards or backwards and then rapidly press buttons it just makes him stop moving for a millisecond, but not punch or kick like he’s supposed to. I’m a complete noob and this is my first arcade stick mod and I’m now at a complete loss as to what to do to fix this issue. I think I’ve only done one thing different from necrodus’s guide and that was only because I didn’t really understand from the text or the blurry pictures as to where he put the ground wire from the joystick and the buttons, he says “A ground chain was used for ground with its end fixed in the ground pole of the home button” no idea what ground pole he is referring to? its all plastic around there, so I just looped it back onto the circuit board, see the picture below. Is that what is giving me the trouble? and if so how would I go about fixing it.
Image wont show for some reason, so here is the URL: http://imageshack.us/f/196/buttondesignations.jpg/
any help would be appreciated.
Hey guys!
I’m intrested if Seimitsu LS-58-01 (Link) fit into the Tekken 6 Wireless fightstick case?
It isn’t a problem if it needs some modding like with the Sanwa JLF, just want to make sure I can use it with the stick. 
I have a LS-56 in my tekken stick (same as 58 with a stiffer spring). It takes work to get it in and pretty much requires you use a bat top unless you put a clean hole at the bottom of the stick to give it clearance for a ball top.
http://d.imagehost.org/view/0374/DSCF3423
You have to cut off the existing mounting holes since the LS-58 will not work with them. Then you have to drill the case like I did or mount using some sort of adhesive material (no sure what others are using to mount their seimitsu, better ask). You would then have to cut a lot of the bottom shaft to fit inside since the LS-58 shaft extends a lot more than the JLF. Plus you will have to grind the bottom of the case for further clearance. With a bat top, the shaft is pulled up a little creating the necessary amount of clearance. With a ball top, you will need a tad more clearance. You can make a complete hole at the bottom of the case or use spacers between the screw holes creating a gap between the bottom and top case panels.
Uhh, doesn’t sounds easy, especially because i will use it with a ball top. However it’s possible and only this is the matter. Thanks for your time
Just finished modding this Xbox 360 Tekken 6 wireless stick for a customer. It now works on PS3 & 360 using a wired connection.
Parts used:
8 x Sanwa OBSF-30
2 x Sanwa OBSN-24
1 x white balltop
1 x Datel ArcadePro pcb
Cable ties & bases
Quick disconnects (insulated)
Cable wrap
Notes:
These sticks are very busy on the inside so a lot was removed like the button pcbs, 360 motherboard, and all stock wiring.
Had to use OBSN buttons for start & select as the holes are slightly too large to fit snap ins. The screw nuts fit in perfectly without reshaping.
Datel pcb was installed in the only logical place I could see - in between the two plastic support posts. One post was ground down and left open, the other had a slot cut into it to fit one side of the pcb. The other side is secured by a cable tie to a self adhesive base.
Because this was a wireless stick I had to cut a notch to fit the USB cable & a suitable strain relief grommet. I opted for the stock Datel grommet, which was moved higher up the cable and new heat shrink attached.
To switch between consoles I used the original T6 ‘Sync’ button and routed this to the Datel’s ‘turbo’. It’s a pretty convenient solution which saves you from installing an extra button or splicing it to the existing ‘select’ point.
Joystick quick disconnects were installed at the customer’s request. Otherwise I’d use the stock Datel joystick JST plugs and solder direct to the microswitches.
The T6 art panel was also removed at the customer’s request.
Pics:
So I’m looking to do an interesting project. I would like to dual mod my X360 wireless stick with a PCB gutted from an iCade (that mini cabinet that syncs with iPads…here’s a link to the imageshack album I did for a thread here - http://imageshack.us/g/225/img0968wo.jpg/). Thanks to rtzdzign for the PCB sale.
Looking at the iCade PCB, I see it does have a USB pin out. I do not plan to use this for USB and will run the wire for the batteries to both PCBs (iCade uses 2 AA batteries as well). Here’s a pic of the PCB for reference:
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/9653/img1774dy.jpg
Connector legend
top edge: LED (will not be used, maybe somehow to indicate iCade PCB is on), Left, Right, Up, Down
Left side: for buttons. COM is ground, I’ll sort out which button goes where
Bottom edge: AC adapter (not used), battery connector
I would like to run both the Hori and iCade PCB to a 2 way switch. When the iCade buttons are pressed, it powers on automatically, but will go to sleep in about 5 minutes. The questions I have are these:
- I would like to know if running both PCBs to a DPDT will prevent it from powering on when I want to use it for the X360.
- Are there identical USB lines for the Hori PCB in this stick, so that a dual mod is possible (like if it was being wired to the D+ and D- of an Imp)? I didn’t see much hope in this thread as most dual mods seemed to replace the PCB.
- Would it be a better solution to just do an on/off switch for the iCade PCB alone? Make sure the X360 PCB is turned off, then flip the iCade switch on so that it turns on? Where would I solder this (in-line with the batteries I take it)?
Thanks for any help or advice anyone can provide.
first question you should be asking is the golden rules of multi-pcb functionality
Q: What are the golden rules?
A: The two golden rules of dual pcb mods:
- All pcb’s must be common ground.
- All pcb’s must be powered at all times.
Both PCBs are common ground, verified with a multimeter for continuity at ground points.
Both can be powered by the 2xAA batteries.
I’m planning on using a rocker switch like this, as it will only control power flow, as there are no USB connections to deal with. I would guess I would connect the VCC/G for the battery pack to the middle 2 pins, then VCC/G for the PCBs on each side? Sorry if this is a basic question. I think I’m answering my own question now, but I just want to be sure.
