Only when the batteries are dying. Also specify which console version you have.
xbox
did u mod urs?
no i havent.
ugh tired of charging batteries so made these, usb powerd 
http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/424/unleduthk.jpg
looks dodgy but it works.
used a glue gun refill stick. small screws and a long usb wire i found in my room lol, i just wraped the wire in the screws and super glued them.
Recently modded Hori T6 arcade stick, artwork is original (for now), replaced parts:
-cherry microswitches
-LS-32 spring
-sanwa JLF square gate
-seimitsu PS-14G pushbuttons
Grinding holes took me 4 hours, manual work ftw…everything else was piece of cake.
I have 4 sticks i am trying to mod, well 3 and one I am building. There is a lot of info in this thread pertaining to what I am doing so figured I would post here, I am a beginner but I did my reading while lurking just need some help. The 3 are: TE (just art, 2button swap for color, and and new JLF) WWE Brawlstick (Polish top, Sanwa Buttons and install TE’s JLF maybe a neutrik jack) Hori T6 (Paint , Sanwa buttons and JLF, possibly make wired and maybe even with neutrik jack).
Ok Here is a pic after I cleaned up the TE’s body with different sandpapers and a polish wheel to get that damn cigarette burn out , Painted the T6/ removed the button tabs, Polished the WWE Brawlsticks top panel as much as I could, and the other pics are the semi sanded and shaped wood for the custom box. (with the te panel on for reference)
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/716/92581536.jpg
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/4928/72651312.jpg
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/7695/88112490.jpg
I guess I should start with the Te which also goes for the Brawlstick and the custom because I will be using a te replacement panel for it, I understand everything I am doing just dont get how it works for mounting the JLFs, I see the panel and the welded on under-mounting plate, the oval holes on the JLF mounting plate, which line up with the circle holes on the welded on under-mount, do you just screw it in and it holds? I don’t understand how it stays and when I tried to attach it to the te’s panel in the last pic^^^right above^^^^ to check if the stick clearance was good in the custom and it didn’t really stay put, kept falling off the screws.
That’s basically it, just how to mount the JLF? , for the brawlstick if I wanted to add a neutrik jack i read it would have to be a 24mm hole (is that standard?) and i figure its basically just wiring it up, but wait.how do you do that? Which brings me to what I am trying to do to the T6 because it similarly has to do with wiring usbs. I saw on page 9 and 10 there was some talk about this, someone also wrote the only thing we know about the pins that go to the battery pack are that from right to left the pins are: (3 volt (blank) (blank) (blank) Ground)
Two other guys were talking about this and one guy hooked up the 5 volt to the 3 volt of the pcb, it made the pcb warm up so they came to agree that a 5v to 3v voltage regulator between the points would be the solution. I’m assuming this worked so I just want to ask if I am correct in thinking that the other pins or wires between the ground and 3v don’t matter?
I also come across this discovery when I noticed I had a pcb of a wired 360 controller lying around, I desoldered the usb cord and the pins were all in tact, and whowouldathunkit? it fits right into the thing in the battery pack. now I come to the ? if that thing works and it fits like that because it is supposed to, would that mean you wouldnt need a voltage regulator (the thing in the battery pack regulates it?)
http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/8482/85965652.jpg
This leads me to think that you could just leave your T6 wireless and hook up a usb (that’s wired up to a pin thing) and plug it in through the thing in the battery pack to make it wired when you want it to be.
if I wanted to add a Neutrik would I be able to cut the 4 pin thing off my USB cord leaving enough wire to hook up a USB B which would plug into the Neutrik from the inside, rewire the USB or just get a USB A to a cable for the outside to console?
Ok so a recap is:
- How do you securely mount the JLF to the Te or Brawlstick panel?
- are neutrik jacks 24mm standard
- If wiring usb straight to pcb, does the v regulator method work? and if so do the 3 middle wires/pins that aren’t the ground and 3v matter?
- Anyone think using the wire off of the wired 360 controller pcb going through the battery, making wired when you want it method would work?
- Would the last thing I wrote about wiring a neutrik jack that way work?
This is my first post so if I got anything backwards or wrong, let me know.
I just bought one and am looking forward to modding it. Easiest option for sticks is to swap it out with a JLF but switch out the shafts and use the Hori one correct?
Probably best to just swap out spring, gate and microswitches as the hori shaft doesn’t really fit properly in a JLF, you’d need an ASCII shaft from something like a green goblin if you’re planning on going that route
I just finished mine last week, I tried to use the hori shaft and parts with the JLF but it didn’t work properly like mr. mortified said, so I just used all the JLF parts, just remember that the JLF baseplate needs modding in two ways to fit the case, gate needs bigger holes drilled out, the shaft doesn’t clear the case so you have to shave or make a hole in the bottom of the case, and the stick will sit higher than normal because of the thin case, that’s just on the joystick side without wiring, seems like a lot of work since I’m new to this but It really didn’t feel like it, I did drop the Idea of making it wired though, might as well add that in to this thread…
If you look a couple of posts back I mentioned taking the usb cord off a wired controller (pictures above in that post) I mentioned how it fit into that little slot that is inside the battery pack area and maybe that would be a way to make it wired. I Tried it, both ways and no dice, it didn’t power the controller plugged in either way. The only other way discussed was a 5 to 3 volt, voltage regulator, but I decided to take the stick for what it is and keep it wireless, especially since the 360 one doesn’t need a dongle, all built in, so no extra crap unless you want to use it on pc.
I am thinking of using a Seimitsu LS-33. I know I am going to also shave a little from the shaft and case and use epoxy to mount the stick. I have a few questions:
I like having the octagonal gate that is used with the sanwas, I am used to sanwa sticks do they make one for the LS-33? Should I just buy a JLF stick and modded like the post above suggests? Finally, do sanwa ball tops fit an LS-33 without an adapter? I am looking to order from Lizardlick today. What size quick disconnects/crimp connectors do I need for sanwa buttons and the cherry switches on the LS-33? Lizard lick has 3 different sizes. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
I don’t know if the sanwa gate will fit on the LS-33. It might be possible to drill out the 1/8" holes on the sanwa gate to make it fit. But you might want to comfirm with someone else. However, seimitsu does have a octo gate that will work on the LS-33. Check the joystick accessories on Akihabarashop.co.jp (It is the LS-56 octco gate but fits the LS-33 and all compact seimitsu sticks). The Seimitsu and sanwa ball tops are perfectly interchangeable.
I would recommend reading the Lizard Lick thread before ordering from them or check their facebook page. They are having stock problems for a long time and are not communicating with their customers. Akihabarashop is not communicating with anyone right now, but they are continuing to ship all orders.
Im going with a full sanwa JLF swap. My question to anyone that could help is how do you secure/mountthe JLF stick if you are removing /grinding away the screw posts from the actual case. I know with the LS-33 you use epoxy but what about for the JLF? Do you also glue it or do you screw it and don’t get rid of/grind off the old screw posts? Also, can i use the wiring harness from the the JLF and connect it to the main PCB for the controller or is the connection different? The less I have to solder the better
Thank you in advanve
The PCB in the Xbox360 Tekken 6 stick uses separate wires for each pin on the stick microswitches. I would say it is easier to go without the -01 model and solder the wires to the pins.
I think if you widen the JLF mounting holes you should be able to mount the JLF to the bracket in the Tekken6 stick. It has been a while since I opened my Tekken6 stick to be sure, but generally Hori seems to use a bracket in their cheaper sticks that does work with the JLF mounting holes.
Thank you therobin. I guess once my T6 comes in I will know for sure. So Ill be using the original bracket and I won’t have to grind away any screw posts from the original case but will have to remove some of the plastic from the bottom of the case and possibly grind down the shaft a bit to make it fit. Does that seem about right? I don’t want a hole on the bottom of the case.
Sounds right. You will likely have to due a bit of grinding on the shaft or case. I highly doubt you will need to put a hole in the case. I BARELY got a LS-56 in mine and that shaft extends much lower than the JLF. Any more grinding on the case and there would be a hole issue.
I get all my stuff tomorrow & all I need to buy is cable and QD’s. What type of cable should I get (size) and I believe the QD’s are .110 I wonder if Radio Shack sells these items…
I just read some of the replies and like I stated the baseplate of JLF is going to need those two modifications to fit where the hori one does, the grinding of the tabs, and the widening of the holes to get it to secure.
Therobin said he highly doubts you need to put a hole in the case and he is right. I was just mentioning if you happen to go through the case when grinding it’s no big deal because the stick won’t clear the hole, think about it, if all you needed to do was grind a little bit of the plastic for the stick to not touch the bottom of the case, what’s the difference if you happen to mess up and make a hole. The stick will have all the movement and its physically impossible for the stick to clear the hole you made.
That’s just something I noticed and thought I would add because when I did this and was grinding the plastic it smelt like crap but I was also worried and stressed about not going through and making a hole, only to mess up and make a hole, and notice it had no consequence, you could just save yourself the worry and breathing in the plastic, but I would still always try an grind first but now you know not to stress it too much because it really wont matter.
One thing never really understood was why people grind the bottom of the JLF shaft, I would figure that’s the highest risk thing you could do to have it clear, considering the whole thing is staying together on that groove the e clip clips on to, If you grind too far you would have to try an replicate that groove and that would be hard, maybe there is another reason for it I dont know?.
Appreciate all the help. I’m a bit worried because this is my first “real” mod and not sure on how it is going to work out plus I am a total noob on soldering. One more question on the sanwa buttons how do you know which of the terminals is the negative or positive? Does it even matter?
The T6 was my first mod also. I’m not horrible with a soldering iron but honestly for this you really do not need that great of soldering skills to get it done. You’ll have to bust out the soldering iron to take the button pcb bord off , then again when you want to wire the buttons to the button wiring harness, and then same thing for the joystick wire harness to jlf wire harness. That’s all that comes to mind, but the people who did this before us posted a lot of info and pics in this thread so it shouldn’t be hard, something I refered back to in this thread that was a big help when wiring was someone posted the correspondence of which wire is to what button or joystick movement for both wiring harness’
about the button terminals thing you asked, it doesn’t matter which just that one of the pins needs to be grounded from each button, but the harness for them will leave you with 11 wires because there is only one ground(common ground) so you can just daisy chain 1 pin from each of the 10 buttons to the ground on the harness.