I was thinking about picking this up for 30 dollars today from bestbuy but i spent so long reading this thread it was all gone by the time I went back to the website.
I Picked up an 360 version for $20 and it’s JUST ok. I like that I can sync it to my computer with the wireless receiver attachment and play with MAME.
So I finally got my hori tekken 6 stick (ps3) partially opened up. (i still need de 3-way screw)
I’m still decided on modding this stick even if it takes me a lifetime… so, i was wondering if you guys could help?
What PCB to you suggest for this stick? I’m ok with the buttons… but yeah, the stick makes a weird sound. Any good ones that fit this baby?? highly appreciated!
(included some pics)
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/8716/1000674j.th.jpg
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6043/1000673n.th.jpg
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/3986/1000672a.th.jpg
^ i tried to unscrew this mofo here, and it was TIGHT as hell. It still is… I couldn’t get it to lose.
Now bear with me because I’m a complete stick noob. I’ve always wanted to try one, but didn’t want to shell out the cash for a controller I may hate using and hang up soon.
Anyway, I saw on Eventhubs the other day that BestBuys are selling the Tekken 6 package including the game and this stick for a mere $30! I’m sure a lot of you guys are aware of this deal.
Would this be a decent stick to start out with for MvC3? That’s what I’ll primarily be playing. Again, the low price tag allured me, but I want to make sure the button layout is fine for MvC3. Like I said, I’m a complete noob when it comes to sticks so I’m not sure what most people’s look like in terms of button count, but… yeah, yadda yadda.
Would I be pleased with this to game on MvC3? Thanks guys! Just reading over this thread a bit, you guys’ knowledge on these things is astounding.
Compared to stock pads, I find this stick to be a dream for the price point. That said, it’s definitely got flaws. Chief among them are the occasional loss of signal. Seems especially common once the batteries are going dead. I’m trading mine to some guy for another stick soon. Nevertheless, you won’t find a less expensive stick any time soon. I actually love the layout, weight, and size of the stick. It’s just not 100% reliable (it works just fine 90% or so of the time, I’d say), and your mileage may vary.
As for mods, they’re scattered throughout the thread. Partial mods seem the best bet (replacing the actual switches in the buttons, for example) since they require the least bit of physical alteration. I was strongly considering doing this, but my reliability issues are not related to the mechanical parts (buttons/stick) as a rule. Honestly, for the price, I recommend just leaving it stock unless something breaks and mod work is necessary.
agreed! since my battery-placing thing (can’t recall name) broke down, that’s why I’m forced to mod this stick. I’m guessing a new PCB with USB option?? I don’t want to go wireless again… (at least with sticks)
I never have connection issues with my Xbox360 T6 stick other then the battery dying. But that is not specific to the T6 stick.
OK, thanks, Kenny! That doesn’t sound too bad. I’ll just have to make sure I keep the batteries fresh!
And how difficult would it be to get custom artwork on there? Like some big sticker with holes cut out for buttons? Obviously I’m not a Tekken guy, and I don’t want to have to stare at those scrubs all day!
yeah, well mine had an “accident” explained in another thread… 
@Mollusk: How dare you speak ill of the Mishima bloodline! 
Seriously, though. I haven’t done artwork swap, but I know there’s a template somewhere in here. I’m thinking that if you go the lami-label route, it wouldn’t be too bad. Easiest way, even if it isn’t quite the prettiest or most professional way, would probably be to get your lami-label custom artwork and exacto knife the necessary holes (which you’ll do anyway)… and just bank on placement precision to fit it around the buttons (take off the ball top of the stick itself when doing this). It won’t be as nice as if you removed the buttons, but you’ll have to do a bit of modding work to remove the buttons first since they’re soldered to the PCB.
@junitZ: I can’t imagine doing a PCB swap on this. Then again, since I really like the form factor, it doesn’t seem a terrible idea. It’s just a small case to work in. If it’s large enough, use a Toodles board. Easiest PCB to work with. If that’s not an option, pretty much any pad will do the trick. Read up on the padhacking thread to find the one best suited for your project. I’d recommend a PSX/PS2 pad with a cheap adapter. Going that route allows you to get adapters for any system that way. It’s the way I’m going. Easier and cheaper than dual-/triple-modding… which I’ve done before. It’s no fun. Anyway, if you need to replace the stick itself, too, I adore an Seimitsu LS-32-01. Favorite stick ever. That said, I’ve seen more people use the Sanwa JLF in this case. Seems the length sometimes requires punching a hole in the bottom of the stick case, though. That’s why the partial mod seems a better alternative to me if it’s possible (switching out the switches with Sanwa ones and swapping the springs).
4therobin: Connection issues are not frequent… they just happen enough to be frustrating.
thanks kendrik! i’ll chek 'em out.
Im gonna use this on this stick for my first mod ever using solder,gonna try add in the AXISdapter too to make it my first dual mod ever. Its an extra stick that I got on sale from amazon that my nephews use so why not, should be a great learning experience.
BTW, small tip for JLF/Hori Hybrid Joystick mod or JLF Restrictor plate mod your gonna need a 1/8 Drill bit to drill out the holes to mount the Restrictor plate.
I’ve never modded anything before, and i’m completely new to arcade sticks, but i’ve been reading up on a bunch of stuff (after i bought my stick, but before i received it), and now that i’ve got it, i’m noticing that the corners only engage at the throw point, but they engage earlier in the cardinal directions, i opened up the case and pulled the plate off the stick and noticed why. when the stick moves to the corners it has less contact with the switch, and it takes more room for it to make contact.
i’m not quite ready to actually start pulling parts out, i want to know if this is something i want to stay with first. is there a way i can give my stick a better corner engage without swapping out the stick for something different?
RiVenoX, look up “JLF Ultimate mod” on youtube. It is a mod to make the engage on the JLF more sensitive.
Once you see and understand how it is done, you can apply the exact same mod to the Hori micro switches in the Tekken 6 wireless stick.
sorry but i havent checked whole thread yet, does n e 1 have video of them modding?
IF you wanna buy some buttons or stick you can contact LAUGH …he has a website etokki.com and has very excellent stuff there
therobin: Thank you!
So somebody asked me to see if I could fix their PS3 T6 stick, said it just stopped responding. I don’t have a PS3 to test it on but when I look at the properties in windows the buttons will activate but they stay activated for a full second before they go off again. Same for the stick. I’ll press a direction, there will be a pause, then the direction will light up and stay lit for a second and go off again.
Is this fixable?
bump
bump.