Is there anyway to replace the buttons with seimitsu skeleton clear buttons and the balltop with a seimitsu clear bubble balltop without soldering? I have never soldered in my life so yeah…
Is there a +5 volts spot on the stock pcb that I could connect to in order to make the thing a two system joystick?
you can get it at most craft stores, maybe a target or walmart as well. and MAYBE even a big hardware store.
is there any issue padhacking a 360 controller into this without putting in the ring of light?
no one?
anyone?
and can anyone update the pictures?
You have to solder to replace the buttons and stick on the t5 hori.
you can switch the ball top of the stick (not the stick itself) without soldering. just use some cloth covered pliers to grip the shaft and twist the ball top off (or remove the bolts holding down the faceplate of the stick and stick a flathead screwdriver in the notch located on the bottom of the stick shaft and use that as leverage to twist off the ball top). screw your new balltop on and tighten. done.
id suggest to just learn how to solder. ~20$ worth of radioshack tools and maybe an hour of reading a faq/messing around with it yourself will learn you all you need to learn about soldering for sticks. not that hard imo
the hori t5 involves a pcb that is closely soldered onto the buttons. id suggest you buy a pre hacked pad and a sanwa jlf and the buttons also (thats a bit of money, but no real hard work at all). its very easy to mod after you get those parts. and yes seimitsu skeletons will fit, but of course you gotta file down the original tabs.
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii147/omgzilla85/IMG_0154.jpg
^ you just have to remove the solder from the pcb that sits under the buttons, you can probably just apply heat and lift from side to side to get it off. i used a desoldering bulb.
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii147/omgzilla85/IMG_0140.jpg
^ those are the tabs in the button holes you need to file down to fit new 30mm buttons.
hope this helps
GJ getting the default metal mounting plate off, I gave up on mine.
As someone who has successfully modded the T5 with Sanwa parts, I found this thread really helpful.
You will need to (de)solder anyways to get the PCB off of the default buttons, so you’re going to have to learn to solder no matter what. I suggest searching youtube for “soldering”, since it helped me a lot just to see someone do it. If you’re worried about breaking something or messing up, IMO it’s harder than it looks to break stuff and you can always desolder if you don’t do it right the first time.
For desoldering I suggest getting “Desoldering braid” (sometimes it’s called desoldering wick), it literally sucks up the molten solder like a paper towel does with water and works better than desoldering bulbs or solder suckers.
exactly what are the tools i’ll need for doing this mod? And I think I’m going to get the iL 8-Way Eurojoystick. would that be able to fit or would I have to add extra holes? The stock t5 stick feels very weird and I can’t do a hcb to qcf for my life on it. I just don’t like the joystick on the t5 at the moment cause of the square restrictor or whatever. I just want it to be like the arcades or soemthing.
Fuck that shit yo a Solder sucker is pro, once it’s liquid it literally vacumes it up. I’ve read the braids can be a pain.
Soldering iron
Solder (rosin core)
Sponge or piece of paper to wipe off excess solder
Desoldering tool (I like braid, others prefer solder sucker, both probably work and neither costs a lot)
Wires
Needle nose pliers
Dremel/Rotary Tool or Sandpaper (to get rid of the button tabs)
Probably need a drill stuff but I’m not sure.
id suggest a heavy file if you don’t wanna buy a dremel. i bought 2 - t5s from craigslist for $20 each. this is an easy way to get an hrap 1 feel.
I tried a solder sucker and it worked like complete fucking ass (as in it didn’t work at all) the solder turned solid within fractions of a second of being liquid. The sucker didn’t suck shit lol. I got it from radioshack btw. its a little red rubber bulb with a plastic nozel.
maybe its cuz this was my first time desoldering anything
maybe you guys got a better brand or profession solder sucker, if so where?
could’ve just been cheaper solder on my pcb?
I’m pretty sure my t5 pcb is fried, not that it realy matters, wasn’t realy planing on using it.
but don’t forget if your desoldering the buttons to pull on them at the same time. woulda saved me a lot of time if I thought of that sooner.
The bulb that radioshack sells is horrid. Try using desoldering braid or a solder sucker that looks more like a syringe; basically for your solder sucker to be “good” it has to suck with a lot of force (lol) so look for something like that.
Desoldering braid isn’t hard to use at all, you just press it to the solder joint with your heated iron and hold it there until it sucks up the solder via capillary action.
i use that one from radioshack. its not great but it works. you have to keep the iron on the solder while you suck it off (no homo). braid is probably better though.
Okay, I’m getting my step brother to solder and dramel it for me. He asked if he can get a picture of what parts get soldered to where like the joystick to what part of the pcb. Can anyone take a picture and label what goes where? thanks.
you shouldn’t need to solder the joystick to the board as there are existing wires that you just need to connect via the white strip in the pictures from vamp.
otherwise it’s simply solder one wire in one hole, solder a different wire in a different whole. put QD’s on them and attach to buttons.
I’m really sorry about this but I’m still kind of loss in regards on how to mount the JLF Harness on the stick. I notice you did something to the original metal plate but not entirely sure what I’m looking at nor do I know what metal work was done to it. I know that on the new Sanwa stick you drilled some holes so it’s able to mount up easily and align with the T5 holes on the plate.